Jump to content
SAU Community

Agreement By Licensed Driver Who Is Testing A Vehicle


GTR-N1
 Share

Recommended Posts

AGREEMENT BY A LICENSED DRIVER WHO IS TESTING A VEHICLE

I acknowledge that by asking for, and participating in a test drive, I am responsible for...

1) all damage to the test vehicle if I am "at fault" or cannot identify nor have details of the person "at fault"

2) damage that is caused by the vehicle in my control

3) theft or loss of the vehicle

4) all fines, regardless of when issued by the relevant authority during the test drive according to the times and date below

Start Time & Date.....................................................................................................................................................................

Finish Time & Date...................................................................................................................................................................

Furthermore, I state that in such an event, I will pay for the costs of repairs to the vehicle &/or property collided with, subject to the lesser of 2 agreed quotes including...

a) actual cost of repair

b) any towing fees

c) any excesses

d) any fines

e) cost of replacement vehicle of similar condition if required

In the case of a catastrophic incident where the cost to repair, is greater than the asking price of the vehicle, I am willing to pay that purchase price within 14 days.

Identification:-

Licence Number............................................................... (and I consent to a facsimile of the licence which will be deleted after an incident-free test drive).

Name.................................................................................................................................

Signature .......................................................................................................................... Date......../........../..........

Owner................................................................................................................................

Signature .......................................................................................................................... Date......./.........../..........

Vehicle VIN......................................................................................................................... Registration Number ........................................

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I signed something similar to this 2 days ago whilst doing a test drive > I've upgraded it.

Essentially, it's a 'You break it - you pay for it' contract.

If you are selling a vehicle and find this document useful, go for it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hehe...

I baulked when I first sighted it Dale.

And when I brought the car back, I had to remind the owner to let ourselves to sign off.

Hmmm, apparently a car of his got pinched before; and perhaps the thief arrived in an already stolen car of lesser quality.

He's an architect; not a lawyer - but I don't know where he got this drawn up. It had a few holes in it - and it still does; but it's the best I can do at the moment. I know for instance that you can't get a 17 year old or at the other end of the scale, an Alzheimer's sufferer to sign such a document.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very useful, i remember having to sign something like this when test driving a car from a dealer;

also Terry, are you able to disclose what wheels you were sussing out?

I signed something similar to this 2 days ago whilst doing a test drive > I've upgraded it.

Essentially, it's a 'You break it - you pay for it' contract.

If you are selling a vehicle and find this document useful, go for it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used a document just like this one when i sold my last skyline and my bike a few weeks ago. Why wouldn'w you use something to protect yourself in the event that some tool comes along and crashes your pride and joy.

There are some dodgey buggers out there that will never pay up in the event of an accident and this seemed to scare a lot of them away in my experience.

Well worth it!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good idea from a private sale point of view - I sell used cars and we have a similar form to fill out but only in the event of a loan car. Basically says the same thing, you damage it you pay for it.

It also lists the km's the car had when it left the yard, customers details eg name, number, licence details, address. Time car left yard, time came back on the yard and signed off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I can amend Post #1

So,...

Should I insert a space for Odometer reading - before and after?

Not sure about that.

Actually, it might be helpful eh; if the car was stolen > upon retrieval, police could have 1 extra piece of data?

And if the driver went through a Speed Camera 10Kms away - again an extra piece of data for the vendor?

Thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gosh these bmw's are worse money pits than JDM's! I won't complain about my car anymore 😂
    • I'll just leave this quick tip here after reading your joys of getting the car in the air. It should take no more then 10 minutes to get the car safely up on stands.  So for the front, jack on the tow recovery points (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). This photo is of a R34 GTR, however the process is the same. For the rear, jack under the diff (marked in red). Put the jack stands under the rear subframe or where the lower control arm mounting point (marked in yellow). Which point you use will depend on your stand, pick a nice stable point.  You've probably already read this but it's worth repeating. When jacking up the car or using stands, stay away from the chassis rails/pinch welds. Even the factory jack point, stay away from that too unless using a factory jack. I used those jack points for years without issue until I turned into an old man and bought a QuickJack lol. 
    • And this is where the leak is happening: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/7h1vlmg2j5aa7rksvsjc9/IMG_9982.jpeg?rlkey=d3bnpau5f615zmxqmca0llvr7&st=kquvdxvs&dl=0   Apologies but it seems adding an image from a link does not work when the images are in Dropbox. 
    • Here are some pics from the auction: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gkbfaa7urogzhyzxtdgq4/4cd77e2d-e19f-45fb-80a0-f9a88fd7f51f.jpeg?rlkey=39p7xyvgr33kj0avcjry2v4ap&st=ncxmagj4&dl=0   https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/gkbfaa7urogzhyzxtdgq4/4cd77e2d-e19f-45fb-80a0-f9a88fd7f51f.jpeg?rlkey=39p7xyvgr33kj0avcjry2v4ap&st=ncxmagj4&dl=0
    • Hi all, From the western suburbs here. Just got my 2000 R34 GTT registered today! Got it imported from Japan through a mate who is doing them and managed to find a decent one. This one has only done 110,000 Km and had no body rust etc. so was very happy. I used to own a 25Gt back in 2015 (ate Ramen noodles for years to save up for it), but unfortunately, it got stolen TEN DAYS after I bought it!! Came back from Uni and the car was missing - cops found it in Springvale a month later with a lot of needles  😒 It was too late by then and I had moved on to a different car (300ZX), and after that one got broken into around 2018, I was in a very bad place and decided I would never buy a car again because it was just pointless!!! ~yeah, I have some very bad mojo~ 🥺 But now, with a stable job and a secure garage, I thought I'd get the R34 4D again but not as a daily! I love the R34s but a GTR is still a bit off my pay grade so settled for the GTT instead.    The first step for me is to get this car serviced and have all fluids, belts and spark plugs changed. I might do the brakes at one point too but atm they are fine, the fluids are what I want changed since this car probably sat in a garage for a long time. I'll then get some coilovers since the suspension needs to be changed anyway (the dust cover kit is disintegrating). I'll also upgrade my car alarm to a Viper system and then look at rims and tyres (I'm a sucker for TE37s - might have enough saved in another 3 years for that).   Today: I was planning to do the oil, coolant, air filter and fuel filter change this week. Started on the oil change today and MY GOD what a pain!! I used to think the 300ZX engine bay was cramped - oh I was so wrong! 😂 I've done the usual services on my cars before so it was not like I was going in blind. I looked up all the forum details about what oils to use, what coolant to use, what points to use to jack the car or place stands etc but I did not expect it to be this hard. Long story short - all I managed to do was the oil and filter change. I think I might end up taking it to a mechanic for a coolant change because my SCA stands and trolley jack just can't get far enough underneath to the cross-member and I don't want to be crushed under my favourite car....yet. Side note: In Dandenong, there used to be a shop that lets you hire their hoists - does anyone know if they have those around? I can't seem to find the Dandenong place anymore. I contacted them off FB almost 6 years ago and I'm not in it now. If anyone know of one, that would save me some time going to a mechanic for the basic services. Oil: Dark and gooey but no metal pieces. Oil Filter: Was a b***h to take off but no red flags Air filter: Yucky! Was black (Smells like fuel which makes me think it may have been running rich? - am I way off?)   Concerns: I have but one concern atm and that is that there was a very small amount of oil leaking where the engine and the transmission connect (Automatic). It may be the rear seal? It's not a massive leak and it does not affect the oil pressures or leak oil all along the driveway. It's been falling into the cover this whole time. I've taken the cover off so I can check the garage floor from time to time.  I also have not seen my engine temperature gauge ever sit at cold and slowly move up to the right spot, but that might be because every time I saw the car today, it was running. I'll check that again tomorrow. ATM it just sits right in the middle. I may just be paranoid but I don't want an overheating engine while my gauges say everything is fine. 🙈 Other than that, I'm very happy with the car! Feels like it's about time I went back to spending my weekends driving or cutting my arm on stupid sh*t in the engine bay.   PS: I will post a pic later on because I underestimated soooo badly today and it was dark by the time I finished! PPS: I broke the two damn plastic pins that hold the intake funnel section to the front bar. This is the piece made to bring cold air to the airbox. The connection to the airbox is fone, but the two clips just broke off! Should I be worried? Anyone else done that? 
×
×
  • Create New...