Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Umm slight "modifications" are required. I'll post photos up of me doing it step by step to show you what's required.

Once Gerard sources this pressure plate. Apparently they are becoming a bit harder to find these days. Other wise I'll have to go to a Mitsubishi pressure plate and i'll have to make some stepped dowels for the flywheel.

Thanks man :) Here's another small update:

I've 99% completed my fixed back seat mount. I used a bride rail for an N15 and used 2 pieces of 5mm flat bar to make an 'adapter plate' to bolt the side mounts for my Pro 2000 onto, anyway here's a couple of photos.

All that has to be done is 4 holes need to be drilled for the side mount rails to be mounted to the adapter plates.

Here's a photo of the Bride rail as it is:

20130502_160142_zps767cb020.jpg

Then with the adapter plates:

20130502_160008_zps6c920f11.jpg

I had to counter sink the bolt heads to get the heads flat (I'm using countersunk socket head cap screws)

20130502_160100_zps149f7e8a.jpg

Thought I'd finish my bush/collar job. So here's the finished project:

20130506_154024_zpsd258fc35.jpg

I fitted them up this afternoon, there was a tiny bit more vibration, but on a positive note it has made the gear shifts everywhere in the rev range really smooth.

20130506_154336_zpse861184c.jpg

I designed the bushes so that they would have plenty of crush on the nylon washer.

20130506_155651_zpsf71b186a.jpg

On another note Gerard from PAR just called to tell me that my solid center clutch is now ready to go. So the short ratio (4.83:1), LSD gearbox will be back in next week smile.gif

Pretty keen to get the box back in.

  • 2 weeks later...

Update time:
Received my clutch today, so ripped the gearbox out and took the flywheel to a local clutch place to be machined. It'll be done first thing tomorrow morning :)

Pictures of the new PAR Solid Center Clutch:
20130516_200445_zps8f6ec42b.jpg

20130516_200502_zps1b414d3f.jpg

Gearbox and clutch are back in. Feels great to have the LSD back again. The final drive is perfect for a VE on the street. You could definitely go a shorter ratio if you didn't do any highway driving. The clutch is anything but brutal. It probably has a smoother, more predictable engagement point with a nicer pedal feel. Also shifting is more effortless, overall I'm very happy.

  • 2 weeks later...

Bit of a photo dump, been doing a little bit on the car over the past few days.

Pics will explain all:

20130601_100016_zps9e9585e6.jpg

20130601_100133_zps9716dac8.jpg

A big thanks to a good friend of mine Dean for the hand made carbon fiber sheet. (the perks of being in the Airplane industry I guess :P)

20130601_100224_zps4276075b.jpg

The throttle linkage tube is 90% complete, I had to use an adjustable reamer and reamed out each throttle linkage pivot as the tube I had was 12.1mm, whereas the OEM BMW one was 11.95mm

20130601_100239_zpsec544389.jpg

20130601_100321_zps63410ec9.jpg

20130601_100338_zps6c5fbf24.jpg

20130601_100408_zpsa5865ced.jpg

20130601_100430_zps09b2752a.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Went to the drags today, ran a best time of 13.97 with a shit house launch lol. I'll post a video up later, the launch is quiet embarrassing though lol!

Still getting used to the new clutch, it's great to shift with, a little more tricky to launch though :P

So I weighed the car while I was at the drags :)


It weighed in at 1085kg, that was the car on a small diet and 3/4 of a tank of fuel (no carpet or back seats or spare tyre, jack etc still has all the sound deadening and the rest of the interior)

I'm around the 85kg mark, so with me in it and a full tank of fuel you could say it would be close to 100kg heavier.

So around the 1185kg mark with me in it and a full tank of fuel.

Lol it has alot less power than your skid pig though too ;)

Gotta try and compensate some how haha.

;) True! But still a little rocket :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
    • I've never done dial in's just straight up, whatever that's called. I'm far from a drag (racing ) expert.
×
×
  • Create New...