Scary Brake Fade With New Rotors And Pads!

[Iron Mike]

Also, I wouldn't say 'spirited driving' is as harsh as circuit racing...

[R31Nismoid]

You should be changing the fluid first and going from there.

A R34 GT-R isn't a light car, and with more power - the stock rotor SIZE is not really adequate for heat dissipation with prolonged use circuit or heavy street/tarmac (5min circuit or a 15min hill run). People IMO waste money spending on expensive stock rotor/pad sizes over doing a D2/KSport brake upgrade which generally costs the same (if you sell brembo's off, you actually profit).

I don't know how you would drive in the hills but if it's anything like what I would do, you are certainly being quite harsh. I would see similar oil/water temps on a hills run as i would after doing 4-5 laps of a circuit based event. So i doubt the brakes would be too far off the mark either

[levinboy]

I will have to disagree with you ash as I am using std size rotors and std brembos on my 33gtr and with the right combo they are fine with circuit use

10-15min session at eastern creek and Wakefield with PMU rotors and club racer pads and no brake fade at all

B-spec pads and same rotors "spirited" driving and and little brake fade due to lower temp rating of pad, but still pulled the car up when I wanted too

[R31Nismoid]

Suppose depends on the power and what not.

With 340rwkw DBA5000s and Ferrodo DS3000 - brakes didn't last as long as I would like.

Combine that with the DS3000 making mince meat out of a rotor given they are track only pad

[The Bogan]

My old 380 killerwasp boat with standard size DBA 4000 rotors and A1RM pads were good for about 10 minutes of circuit duties, any more than that and they started to go off quit quickly .

My vote is still the packaging protecting coating or oil residue from installation was not cleaned off and it has got into the pads.

After a big oil down I had a while ago the front rotors got some oil on them and they went to shit and had to be replaced.

Either that or the bleeding/flushing process was flawed., how old was the fluid and was it sealed prior to use or had the bottle been open for a while.

My old 380 killerwasp boat with standard size DBA 4000 rotors and A1RM pads were good for about 10 minutes of circuit duties, any more than that and they started to go off quit quickly .

My vote is still the packaging protecting coating or oil residue from installation was not cleaned of and it has got into the pads.

After a big oil down I had a while ago the front rotors got some oil on them and they went to shit and had to be replaced.

Either that or the bleeding/flushing process was flawed., how old was the fluid and was it sealed prior to use or had the bottle been open for a while.

[Dobz]

Still haven't gotten an answer whether the protective coating was cleaned off before use. Another factor is how you actually use your brakes, it is possible to ride the brakes too much and put excessive heat in to them.

[Duncan]

OP said the brakes were smoking. fluid fade can never do that.

It is either:

* not bedded in properly, or oil or something on the discs or pads. To fix, remove and clean with brake fluid

* pads/discs were overheated. get better ones. I think it was identified above that the pads are at the crappy end of the mu range?

[levinboy]

Suppose depends on the power and what not.

With 340rwkw DBA5000s and Ferrodo DS3000 - brakes didn't last as long as I would like.

Combine that with the DS3000 making mince meat out of a rotor given they are track only pad

The club racer pads are good on rotors plus the scr pro rotors seem to last a long time

I used this combo on a 350awkw full weight r33gtr

I'm comfortable with this set up and happy with the performance

[MrStabby]

* not bedded in properly, or oil or something on the discs or pads. To fix, remove and clean with brake fluid

You didn't mean clean with brake fluid you mean brake cleaner. Brake fluid, oil etc, ruins pads. Throw the pads if they're contaminated.

[Duncan]

lol yeah that wouldn't work so well...shouldn't drunk type in brake threads!