R32 Rb20, Gtr, Sway, Button Clutch,3" Split Dump/front , A/c
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@Lithium looking for a turbo for my Rb30. Want to make sure I understand this correctly. If I want to stay 40psi or under my best choice of these 3 is actually the smaller G40-1150 ? -
Massive ups for MTHire also. Could not have done the subframe bushings job without hiring the tool from them. Process was super easy and cost me around 25% of the cost of the tool. If you need a one-time tool to do something, check them out. (Paid for the rental myself, no sponsorship here.) -
I'd suggest calling Unigroup, they have a lot of experience with these, access to reliable fabricators etc. Of course it will cost but at least you can trust what they tell you -
The switch part, is the switch you use to turn the lights on and off in the car. The test I had was to determine where in the line it is, but on a quick rethink, if it's only blowing when you turn the switch on, then it's the wire from the switch, to the headlight that's got the short. Now it's a case as GTS said, of physically finding the fault. The fault could be: metal has broken through the loom. Known as a rub through. Places to check: anywhere the wiring has been messed with in the car, particularly firewall grommets if extra cables have been passed through. Check the inner guard linings, you might be rubbing through with a wheel, particularly if the vehicle has been lowered. Also check for anywhere there could be high heat, especially if heat shields are missing. Double check any wiring at the head unit too if someone has messed with the headlight wiring to pick up a feed to dim the headlight at night. You could also just have really old cabling that is literally falling apart, though, this is more likely in Euros than in an old Nissan in my experience. -
Yeah. I usually go by the torque specs. I forgot that Nissan recommends 1386b sealant on that thread, still can buy it on ebay actually.
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