Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Model: R32 Skyline GTR

Year: 1993

mileage: 113000kms

Colour: Burgundy

Price: $26,000 ono

Reason for sale: Changing to an s2000.

This is my beloved R32 GTR. I bought the car pretty much as it is from a mid aged car lover 6 months ago. This car is pretty much a street registered track car. Good for track days and other kinds of racing events. Also pretty good to drive on the street if you can put up with the clutch and consumption of petrol. Condition of the car is really good for its age. interior i dare to say is 1 of the best in r32 out there! Chassis is 100% straight with no rust at all. couple of panels have been repainted but still in good condition, not faded or scratched except the front guard on the driver's side has tiny bit of scratch.

AC has been completely taken out. And the only really flaw of the car is the dash lights were blue when i bought the car and now they are out.

Heres the list of mods:

Engine:

- Garrett 2860-5 turbos

- HKS cams and camgears

- HKS headers, factory dump pipes with nismo front pipes and cat back system

- Nismo 600cc injectors with nismo fuel pump

- Splitfire coil packs

- Oil cooler, Trust oil sump, oil restrictors.

- Alloy radiator

- Carbon fibre airbox

- Custom made oil catch can by Silverwater Automotive

- Silicon radiator hoses

Drivetrain:

- Extreme twin plate clutch

Electronics:

- Apexi Power FC with hand controller

- HKS boost controller

- Blitz turbo timer

Suspension:

- Bilstein coilovers

- Nismo strut brace

Brakes:

- Large 2 piece front brake rotors

- Slotted rear brake rotors

Interior:

- Very rear Nismo optional seats!

Those are the mods I can think of on the top of my head so far. Car is currently running on 1.1bar(low) and 1.3bar(high) boost. I normally run it at high boost and never had a single problem. Knocking is always at around 35. Highest was seen at 42 for a split sec. Personally I have never dynoed this car so I can't tell you how much power it makes. It was tuned by last owner but I will tell you it is faster than my friends 300awkw Evo and from 80-170 in about 6 sec and feels a lot quicker than my last 300awkw r34 gtr so I'd say it is around 330awkw if not any more.

Now here is photos:

244091_10151075163656121_755776144_o.jpg

277350_10151075164821121_2082710821_o.jpg

471058_10151081578316121_1762987622_o.jpg

55323_10151075167551121_1268359631_o.jpg

534743_10151132584991121_1131059316_n.jpg

Edited by G0Z1LLAAAAA34
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413131-syd-1993-r32-gtr-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Forgot to mention that the car also has Attesa AWD switch, Nismo N1 head lights and LED taillights. Will post a photo of the full dash this weekend. Dash has absolutely no bubbles on it!.

Edited by G0Z1LLAAAAA34

K guys, Due to my personal circumstances, I need this car gone so here is another big price drop, $21000. I am very negotiable on this price as I need it gone. So please throw me your offers. My number is 0413 205 603. Rego ends in Jan.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
    • There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.
    • That ring thing is interesting how it's holding everything together 
×
×
  • Create New...