Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

I am wanting to see what is inside my block as i am currently setting the car up to make the most of the turbo setup i currently have. I am after the best way to do so that will take the least amount of time &/or moneys...

I bought the car from a member on here, believe his username is/was Morgs (it is on a few other forums i/he frequents). Car in question is a silver 33r with T88 kit on it, NSW rego plate was [sXI 33R] for anyone that recognises the car. If it is a standard N1 spec engine i will just rip it out & stick a 26/30 in the hole, but wont bother if the current engine has decent rods & pistons already as it should awaken it loads once it cops 30psi on E85!

So... boroscope, head off whilst rest of engine left in bay, sump off whilst rest of engine still in bay, engine out completely (minus box), engine & box out as 1?? I know how much of a pain it is to drop a GTR box, so want to avoid doing this if possible! Haha

Cheers fellas!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413156-inspecting-inside-engine/
Share on other sites

Guys,

I am wanting to see what is inside my block as i am currently setting the car up to make the most of the turbo setup i currently have. I am after the best way to do so that will take the least amount of time &/or moneys...

I bought the car from a member on here, believe his username is/was Morgs (it is on a few other forums i/he frequents). Car in question is a silver 33r with T88 kit on it, NSW rego plate was [sXI 33R] for anyone that recognises the car. If it is a standard N1 spec engine i will just rip it out & stick a 26/30 in the hole, but wont bother if the current engine has decent rods & pistons already as it should awaken it loads once it cops 30psi on E85!

So... boroscope, head off whilst rest of engine left in bay, sump off whilst rest of engine still in bay, engine out completely (minus box), engine & box out as 1?? I know how much of a pain it is to drop a GTR box, so want to avoid doing this if possible! Haha

Cheers fellas!

If you ripping it down that much you may as well rebuild it , new rings, etc if required

or just do a 26/30 ?

30psi and e85 isnt a cheap build so dont cut corners and blow the motor after a few runs

Wise man pays once

Everything is there to run 30psi already. Only thing missing from when i purchased the car was decent injectors, which i have since replaced with ID2000's & i have also put new fuel pumps in as added insurance (3 x 044's).

If the engine is already built with decent components, i am happy to leave it in there & push it harder. It has held up fine for the past 12 months at 22psi on E85, just not sure if it will like 30psi if it is infact a standard N1 spec engine.

Am i able to pulle the head & sump off easily enough whilst the engine is still in the car, or no? Will a boroscope be able to get into the correct place(s) to identify what pistons & rods are in there, or no?? Can i lift out the engine & box together through the bay, or will i have to seperate them & remove the box from underneath the car using a hoist???

Cheers!

I have used borescopes a few times for internal inspections of aircraft engines and I reckon if you can get a good one (with video image instead of lens and a moveable head you should be able to get a fair amount of information about what is inside your engine through the sump plug and spark plug holes. The holes in aircraft engines specifically drilled for borescope inspections are often smaller than the spark plug holes on your Skyline. Might be worth renting a good borescope before you start ripping into the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...
    • Not really, no. Anything you would do is easily reversible.
    • I would like more noise related info for my truly uneducated guess  Does it do it at idle or when revving, clutch engaged, and disengaged? Does it only do it when the car is moving? I've heard "similar" noises from a clutch pack that left the chat room, and CV joints that have chewed themselves out But as Matt said, how's the yokes, tailshaft and centre bearing going after their last little issue Fingers crossed it is something simple  Weird noises make me cringe 
    • One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
    • Pfft. As if I'd ever point a high pressure washer at my car.
×
×
  • Create New...