Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Needed

Ant_r33

By Ant_r33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ant_r33 Apprentice

Ant_r33

Posted
Posted

Hi I got I problem, I got my afm cleaned by my mechanic and ever since, my car wants to make me head but my windshield at high revs, any ideas? Plus he mentioned some hoses are connected to the wrong things, factory bov hose and standard boost controller, I'm in Sydney if anybody can see the car and clarify things for me, plus any diagrams of where the hoses are suppose to go would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413186-help-needed/
Share on other sites
jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

sounds like R&R rather than a misfire.

My first thought based on your description of recent work done on the car is that the lines to the boost controller etc are now wrong and it is running unlimited boost.

Hence pulling hard and then slamming into R&R when it runs off the map.

Check this out very thoroughly as if it is it wouldnt be long till you throw the turbo's guts down the exhaust...

otherwise it may also be pinging hard also causing the R&R which means motor life is being threatened too.

go to a reputable workshop and get them to sort it id say as the stakes could be pretty high here.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413186-help-needed/#findComment-6613612
Share on other sites
Ant_r33 Apprentice

Ant_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It's still running standard boost, when I say the hoses are wrong the hose that goes to the stock bov still goes there but is t pieced and another hose goes to the standard boost controller, I believe the boost controller should be connected to the front mount instead? But there is no where to put it, what do you mean by R and R ? Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413186-help-needed/#findComment-6614036
Share on other sites
jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

have you got a boost gauge to tell what the turbo/boost is doing?

only way to tell...

R&R is rich n retard- a setting the pumps excess fuel and retards the timing in order to prevent damage to the motor.

stock ECU has this setting and isnt afraid to use it lol.

im not going to advise over the net what to do with ur setup. only advice is to get it sussed by a professional.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413186-help-needed/#findComment-6614483
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • dbm7
      Shifting questions

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • GTSBoy
      MAJOR FUEL ISSUES 25det neo r32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • QB6SAGR
      RB20 in need of modest love injection

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • kevboost7
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By kevboost7 · Posted

      F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
×
×
  • Create New...