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Having a bit of an ongoing issue with starting my 34 and lookin to sort it out as its very frustrating.

This has only happened immediately after fueling the car, no other time-may be a coincidence however. Fuel the car up, go to start it and it turns over but will not fire.

Fuel pump is priming and when I removed the fuel hoses to engine there was plenty of fuel being sent to the engine/so it appears the pump is functioning fine "waulbro 500hp pump"

Have tried releasing fuel cap and starting to release pressure

Disconnect and reconnect power

Disconnect and reconnect ecu

Have just installed a new immobilizer/security ad it still continues with this one and prior one

Have pulled and checked all relevant fuses

Checked all plugs to coulpacks connected and the other loom plugs

There is power to dash and fuel pump

Have tried locking/unlocking with factory remote-(someone suggested that the factory lockbox may have some sort of "immobilizing" setting) using a different lock box.

I haven't checked if there is power to coilpack loom or injectors-havent had a test light handy at the time

Near new spark plugs

Coulpacks have not been playing up at all "spitfire"

Injectors have had no issues and were cleaned as flow tested around 5-8000 km ago.

Running standard ecu /nistune chip.

Fuel filter replaced

None of the above has made it start, in the end after wasting 20-30 mins each time checking everything and sitting around it just suddeny decides to start.

Has done it about 6 times at various fuel stations- did it lastnight at bp west terrace city, and last week bp victor harbour.

Finding myself a bit stumped- turns over but does not fire. I'm lead to think its ecu related or electrical. It may be coincidental it's happening after fueling up, but hasn't done it any other time.

Any one got any ideas or similar experiences??thankyou!

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Absolutely no help at all, but my wifes old car used to do this literally from brand new....in the end it got to the point where you'd factor in the time you'd waste at the servo waiting for the car to get it's shit together and get ignition back. The dealer couldn't even figure it out.

Having a bit of an ongoing issue with starting my 34 and lookin to sort it out as its very frustrating.

This has only happened immediately after fueling the car, no other time-may be a coincidence however. Fuel the car up, go to start it and it turns over but will not fire.

Fuel pump is priming and when I removed the fuel hoses to engine there was plenty of fuel being sent to the engine/so it appears the pump is functioning fine "waulbro 500hp pump"

Have tried releasing fuel cap and starting to release pressure

Disconnect and reconnect power

Disconnect and reconnect ecu

Have just installed a new immobilizer/security ad it still continues with this one and prior one

Have pulled and checked all relevant fuses

Checked all plugs to coulpacks connected and the other loom plugs

There is power to dash and fuel pump

Have tried locking/unlocking with factory remote-(someone suggested that the factory lockbox may have some sort of "immobilizing" setting) using a different lock box.

I haven't checked if there is power to coilpack loom or injectors-havent had a test light handy at the time

Near new spark plugs

Coulpacks have not been playing up at all "spitfire"

Injectors have had no issues and were cleaned as flow tested around 5-8000 km ago.

Running standard ecu /nistune chip.

Fuel filter replaced

None of the above has made it start, in the end after wasting 20-30 mins each time checking everything and sitting around it just suddeny decides to start.

Has done it about 6 times at various fuel stations- did it lastnight at bp west terrace city, and last week bp victor harbour.

Finding myself a bit stumped- turns over but does not fire. I'm lead to think its ecu related or electrical. It may be coincidental it's happening after fueling up, but hasn't done it any other time.

Any one got any ideas or similar experiences??thankyou!

Classic fuel vapour lock symtoms but you said you remove the cap and thats normally the fix?? It should start after that

(E fuels does that a lot in the heat)

Does it go woosh when you open the cap ? it shouldnt pressurize the tank that much ?

return flow line blocked ? Causing overpressure flooding of fuel into injectors , only happens when fuel is hot in lines? fuel regulator not working right ?

test cold , remove fuel cap and start it ? Works ? No then you have another issue like regulator or electrical gremlins

immobolizer wouldnt let you start it ever ? if that was the cause

Blocked or collapsed fuel filter , had a autobarn drift one seep fuel around the flange just lately

Could alway smell fuel but never leak ?

Bad fuel pickup that looses prime suction ? Long shot

Crushed fuel line under car causes air pocket randomly after driving ?

Too much fuel additive , excessive injector cleaner will do that , bugger to fire warm

If it starts after sitting I would say fuel related

If it starts random could be anything elctrical or fuel or both

Electrical only dont normally fix after time unelss the commection arcs enough to " temp fix"

Classic fuel vapour lock symtoms but you said you remove the cap and thats normally the fix?? It should start after that

(E fuels does that a lot in the heat)

Does it go woosh when you open the cap ? it shouldnt pressurize the tank that much ?

return flow line blocked ? Causing overpressure flooding of fuel into injectors , only happens when fuel is hot in lines? fuel regulator not working right ?

test cold , remove fuel cap and start it ? Works ? No then you have another issue like regulator or electrical gremlins

immobolizer wouldnt let you start it ever ? if that was the cause

Blocked or collapsed fuel filter , had a autobarn drift one seep fuel around the flange just lately

Could alway smell fuel but never leak ?

Bad fuel pickup that looses prime suction ? Long shot

Crushed fuel line under car causes air pocket randomly after driving ?

Too much fuel additive , excessive injector cleaner will do that , bugger to fire warm

If it starts after sitting I would say fuel related

If it starts random could be anything elctrical or fuel or both

Electrical only dont normally fix after time unelss the commection arcs enough to " temp fix"

Doubtful it's a air lock in the fuel? I've disconnected hoses on one occasion and it was flowing well, and reconnected. I'd imagine turning it over would force the air lock through the fuel rail and back through the return line to the tank?

Had the same issue with the last 34- now ice swapped everything-looms, ecu, engine,literally everything into the new shell so I've taken the problem over to the new car.

I'm using genuine fuel filter-replaced since the first occurance, standard fuel pressure reg. the fuel lines don't appear damaged or squashed-it's good for 300kw constantly and isn't restricted on boost in the slightest which u would imagine if the fuel wasnt getting to the engine.

Doesn't go woosh when I open cap-barely had a pressure build up in tank- tried with cap off and on. Starts fine everytime no hassles except for these occurances I'm randomly having.

Haven't been using a fuel additive or injector cleaner in tank. -always use premium- mostly bp if I can otherwise i have to use the alternatives. I find it odd that its after fueling-how is adding fuel to a tank which already contains fuel stopping it starting....must be coincidental??!!

Spoke to the fella who tuned it today and got a couple more suggestions:

Get a spare coil pack to plug into loom and test for spark/electrical current to establish if there is power to plugs,

Test the injectors also for power for the same reason- I guess these will both establish where the problem lies-igintion-ecu-looms-etc...

Possible faulty relay that's getting warm/hot and not functioning and failing to power ignition/coils/injectors/. Could make sense- allowing time for it to cool down to function but still strange why so random and non consistent

it doesn't appear to be fuel as the pump works and is getting fuel to the motor.

Going to try these suggestions, and anything else's people come up with. Really hard to diagnose when it happens randomly sometimes weeks/months appart. And very frustrating when I get stranded..

Any other thoughts or ideas on the matter il be interested.

Doesnt a buggered AFM have those symptoms?

Yeah pretty much except it would happen other places not just after refueling ? Unless that is just a random event

A single coil pack wouldnt do that loss of signal to the harness would

Or injector pulse not on the main harness?

Or ecu malfunction from heat ?

it needs to affect all of the coils or injectors at once not just one? just one it would still run , bad but run

does the car smell of fuel ( engine flooded smell?)

Maybe its not seeing the hot engine temp and choking off the air mixture to suit? flooding the engine in fuel ?

The more kw the engine makes the less drivability it has ! (There is a reason the engine is detuned for mass consumption- driveabilty in any condition ) anyway 300kw is running and if its not running it has zero kw so that doesnt matter

can you remember if the day was hot , over say 27c or humid ? or you drove up and down lots of hills at speed and pulled into petrol station without idle down to even out the engine temps?

fuel lines or filter to close to engine parts and fuel boils in those ? doubt it but no idea how you have it laid out ? Factory or otherwise?

fuel reg malfunction is still a possibilty as well , flooding the engine

Waiting for it to f*#k again so I can try a few things and so far it hasn't,

Fuel reg is standard Troy, and fuel filter and lines in same spot as usual. Afm is z32 and around 10000km old- would this stop it starting?i would imagine it would definately change the way a cat runs if its faulty but does it prevent starting? And it's a high chance it is happening when fueling out of coincidence.

It's happened different times- driving 3kms on a freshly started motor to get fuel, and after traveling 170km, with minimal boost..it's completely random and doesn't seem to matter how it was driven prior. Haven't always filled it, but it has usually been down to a quarter or sometimes just below when it has happened.

Got a few things to try, hopefully it happens again soon so I can start diagnosing it... Thanks for the feedback- the more things to eliminate the better.

The more kw the engine makes the less drivability it has ! (There is a reason the engine is detuned for mass consumption- driveabilty in any condition ) anyway 300kw is running and if its not running it has zero kw so that doesnt matter

sorry to hijack, but Troy or anyone, can you please expand a bit on this quote?

sorry to hijack, but Troy or anyone, can you please expand a bit on this quote?

More or less

All major car companies detuned cars for many years to comply with

emissions 70-90's cars were bad

Insurance - quoted power was much lower then actual power

Fuel quality worldwide- tuned for the market to lowest quality in most cases

Maintenance schedules- dependability if buyers didn't change the oils etc on schedule the motor etc would last beyond warranty , just !!! Old timers remember when cars would die just after warranty expires Hyundai and mitsu was notorious for it on E fuels

All the jdm brands in the past agreeing to 206kw comes to mind

US companies quoting low power for insurance regs or emissions targets

A car you depend on should be tuned so you can trust it,, not jacked up to make tones of power at max revs on perfect fuel on cool days

But one tuned for hot/ cold , fuel batches poor, etc

That starts first click of the key

Many cars on forums quest for max KW but loose function except track or dyno days

Or torque for so you don't have to spin it up every little hill

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