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Full-Race Ets-Pro Centre Diff Torque Split Controller Install Into R32 Gtr


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  • 2 weeks later...

im looking at converting my 180sx with rb to 4wd. provided i have the gtr gearbox, rear diff, front diff, drive shafts, modded rails,front hubs and altessa pump and lines will this controller allow me to run 4wd without having to get a altessa computer and wiring?

Edited by Scott Black

yes, ETS-Pro works perfectly for your type of application. what you're proposing is exactly what my personal car is - nissan S14 chassis, converted to GTR AWD using the ETS-Pro for torque split control. ditch all of the attesa crap/wiring (and the completely outdated "pendulum style" g-sensor).

edit: depending on your skills and equipment available, you may want to take a look here at our setup to get ideas: http://www.full-race.com/store/r14-awd-skyline/r14-conversion-kit-skyline-gtr-rb26-awd-240sx-swap.html

Edited by Full-Race Geoff
  • 3 months later...

Hi Geoff

I'm wiring my ETS Pro into my R32 GTR and have 3 quick and simple queries for you:

1. Do I unplug these 2 plugs that I have circled below (the original g sensor wires?) and just leave them unplugged?

post-132-0-55254600-1402203303_thumb.jpg

2. I have purchased 2 sets of wire (pictured below). The 2.9mm2 (25 amp) I was thinking of using for the power and ground wires (red and green on ETS Pro), and the smaller 1.13mm2 (10 amp) stuff I'm going to use for the white/black/blue wires. Is that suitable? I'm hoping it should be, even the 1.13mm2 wire looks slightly larger than the wire that comes already attached to the ETS Pro.

post-132-0-76135000-1402203336_thumb.jpg

3. In the guide on the first page, Andrew cuts the purple TPS wire and leaves it hanging out of the plug as the loom end is wired to the ETS Pro's blue wire. Just checking that's correct, to leave it hanging / not connected to anything.

Thanks in advance :)

Hi Geoff

I'm wiring my ETS Pro into my R32 GTR and have 3 quick and simple queries for you:

1. Do I unplug these 2 plugs that I have circled below (the original g sensor wires?) and just leave them unplugged?

attachicon.gifg sensor.jpg

2. I have purchased 2 sets of wire (pictured below). The 2.9mm2 (25 amp) I was thinking of using for the power and ground wires (red and green on ETS Pro), and the smaller 1.13mm2 (10 amp) stuff I'm going to use for the white/black/blue wires. Is that suitable? I'm hoping it should be, even the 1.13mm2 wire looks slightly larger than the wire that comes already attached to the ETS Pro.

attachicon.gifetspro wire.jpg

3. In the guide on the first page, Andrew cuts the purple TPS wire and leaves it hanging out of the plug as the loom end is wired to the ETS Pro's blue wire. Just checking that's correct, to leave it hanging / not connected to anything.

Thanks in advance :)

hi, the installation procedure will depend on whether you want to keep the OEM computer in place. Most racers will delete the OEM computer but some people want to retain it. Keeping it functioning allows your torque split gauge to move around, and keeps ABS happy.

1. the answer to this question depends on what i wrote above -- the G-sensor is required only to keep the oem computer functioning without codes

2. no problem, you should be all set

3. same answer as #1, if you will use the oem computer just tee off the TPS. if you dont care about the oem computer, cut the wire and intercept the signal

i hope this helps

Edited by Full-Race Geoff
  • 6 months later...

I see in the photos the new G sensor was mounted on the panel behind the back seat which means its mounted vertically.I thought it would need to be mounted on a flat panel,therefore horizontal or parallel to the road?And also does it matter which way its mounted,should the side with the arrow on it go down or up?Any help would be appreciated

I see in the photos the new G sensor was mounted on the panel behind the back seat which means its mounted vertically.I thought it would need to be mounted on a flat panel,therefore horizontal or parallel to the road?And also does it matter which way its mounted,should the side with the arrow on it go down or up?Any help would be appreciated

Hi, the G-Sensor install should be firmly affixed to a level surface. arrow facing forward, screws facing upwards. Two part epoxy is ideal. Never use tape of any type.

more info here: http://www.full-race.com/articles/ets-pro-install-guide.html

  • 1 month later...

full clockwise is biased towards center diff-lock (50/50)

full counter clockwise is biased towards RWD.

if you ground the ebrake switch, that is 100% RWD (0psi in xfer case)

  • 3 months later...

These two systems work together in concert -- the haltech platinum pro is a great standalone engine ECU, it controls your engine and fuel/ignition only. Our ETS-Pro is a standalone torque split controller, and controls only the center-differential.

I've meant to ask this for a while now but it keeps skipping my mind....

Has anyone that has installed one of these found that the front diff seems to be working overtime even when dialled back? When the car is cold and I reverse out of my driveway, the front of the car hops around a lot when I turn the wheel....almost feels like it wants to break something...didn't do that prior to installing the ETS Pro.

Have wired it up per the instructions in this guide and I don't know if it makes any difference but I have a Nismo 1.5 way in the front.

  • 2 weeks later...

JH32. Don't know how long you've had the unit in your car. But this does sound exactly like the symptoms I had when TPS wires were wrong way round. If it does it when ETS is in RWD then I'd say it's mechanical.

JH32. Don't know how long you've had the unit in your car. But this does sound exactly like the symptoms I had when TPS wires were wrong way round. If it does it when ETS is in RWD then I'd say it's mechanical.

Thanks for that mate, the car's off the road at the moment but when it's back I'll have a look.

If I turn the ETS controller knob fully to the left i.e. RWD then it still does it but if I flick the switch to go to RWD (e.g. equivalent of pulling the fuse) then it doesn't do it any longer so I'm thinking it's to do with the ETS Pro rather than being a mechanical issue. Hopefully I'm right but it sounds from what you've written that it could be the case.

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