Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah its tricky to tell without the falt edge hey. i was surprised cos it didnt even look convex but it was.

all you have to do is get the actual mirror assembly out (the plastic bit with th glass in, not the housing) and just take it to your local glass shop, drop it off and give them $20 half an hour later and refit.

not sure about the scratched windows, but i'm sure they can do something, just ask and see what they can come up with.

  • Replies 145
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey steve,

yes WA regs require a high mount stoplight be fitted if the car was manufactured after June 1989 (i think). You dont always have to put one in, as alot of cars already have them on (a mates oct rx7 had one built into the tailgate).

if you need to put one in, just goto bigw or kmart/supercheap etc, buy a nice slimone that can mount to your inner windscreen. mount it up and run the wires down through the trim and tap you brake light wires.easy!

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Guys

Just bought 32 gtst type m..december build so like everyone is is right at the back of the que to get my car over here!

Anyways, i have been reading about compliancing and its all good stuff..cheers guys!

However i hear in SA they get pretty strict and are pretty trigger happy..

so just wondering if anyone needs to know what to get done in SA and if i can do most of it myself and get an engineer to sign it off

cheers

For Tyler and PHATR32, DRIFTT knows more than me but i'll put up what i know you need

*you NEED a restrictor in the filler neck (LRP still sold here)

*you may/may not have to change front belts (look for the label as mentioned earlier)

*you will have to change rear belts (if you have them/are going to keep them) they are most probably going to be just lap belts, requires lap-sash (goes across your chest)

*you may not have to change your *drivers side* mirror, depending on whether it is convex or flat (convex=must change) passenger side can remain convex.

*you MUST fit side intrusion bars if not fitted from factory - some 89 models have them factory, but i think most don't? (Skylines def don't)

*you need to securely attach a tyre placard to the vehicle (door jamb or under bonnet usually) and also an "unleaded fuel only" sticker somewhere near the filler.

---EDIT---

*you must fit child restraint anchor points if the car is capable of carrying a baby capsule (pretty sure 2 seaters arent allowed to, so you dont have to fit them) Most skylines have them done through the rear parcel shelf.

*you'll also need a high mount stoplight if your car doesnt have one. If theres one in the spoiler , upper tailgate, or inner windscreen that will suffice, otherwise you'll have to mount one (easy) see earlier post

i know i'm forgetting some things, and this is only from personal experience...

Phat if you want to buy tyre placards, go and see Paul at Autoworx in Wangara, he's got them pre printed ready to stick on. Or you can just make them yourself - get someone on here to give you the figures on it (i havn't got one sorry) then make one up in word, photshop whatever, print it out, and contact it onto the car if you cant find another way to stick it on.

one thing that hasn't been mentioned here is the side indicators that are on the guards. My last 32 GTS-T had compliance indicators. Do they still need to be installed? I saw a recently complied '89 R32 GTR and that didn't have any on the side.

cheers for that blacky.

Just a few quetions for anyone in the know,

Q1:with the child restraint attachments, does each rear seat need it's own attachment or do you just need one for the one seat?

Q2: the a/c controls in my r32 have been moved to the dash in front of the passenger seat, does anyone know if this would need to be moved back to stock position?

Bought some r32 anti-intrusion bars on friday. Was $130 for both (the car is a two door), which includes the actual bars and the brackets that weld to either end. Very good buy, if i get it ready for welding myself, should have intrusion bars installed for $250 max. Sweet!

cheers for that blacky.

Just a few quetions for anyone in the know,

Q1:with the child restraint attachments, does each rear seat need it's own attachment or do you just need one for the one seat?

Q2: the a/c controls in my r32 have been moved to the dash in front of the passenger seat, does anyone know if this would need to be moved back to stock position?

You'll need them for both seats

Holes are already there but need to be drilled through the parcel shelf.

I also used a couple of spacers to raise them enough to clear the original speaker

covers.Make sure you buy the "late model"? restraints that have a provision for

a clip.When you go to buy them there is 2 types.

As for the a/c as long as the engineer signs off on your car with them there you should be fine.

Hope that helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Can we see a scan of the original quote? The problem with engineers (and by this, I mean, all engineers across all engineering industries) is that there are "engineers" and there are "engineers" (you'll have to imagine the two different vocal emphases on those two versions of the same word. Engineering is a mindset - your farm kid who spent his life rebuilding the tractor will likely make a good engineer. The farm kid who spent his life taking photos of butterflies.. perhaps not. But on top of that mindset, the modern engineer has to learn how to write so that there is absolutely no way of being misunderstood. Proposals/budget estimates/quotations are one place where this is absolutely vital. You have to delineate your scope of supply with extremely hard boundaries, and anywhere where there is any possibility of not being able to have such a hard boundary, you need to write language that will cover you from scope creep, cost overruns, the inevitable interference of the client or their "engineer", etc etc. Now, if your clients are the BHPs and the Rio Tintos of the world, and similar, then you get good at this. If you are an automotive engineer, pitching work to the great unwashed masses, your skills in this area might not be well developed, because you're only dealing with knuckle draggers trying to get a big block legal in a Torana. And when I say "might not"....I'd suggest there's a better than even chance that any such skills might be completely absent. So, we might be able to look at your quote and see what the opportunities are for rebuttal.
    • It’s an rb25 so a gtst and I’ll get that valve
    • Thank you for this my turbo doesn’t have the nipple so I’ll get one installed in the turbo to Intercooler piping. I’ll get everything I need and locate it all using the information you both gave and get back with an update. 
    • Please do not connect it to your manifold. If you do, as GTS suggested please record the lot in 4K with good mics attached.   On the factory Skyline, there's a upside down pipe that allows it to breathe, looks like this   
    • For me I'd need some serious justification for why it has blown out.  Have you questioned him on it?  To be honest if you didn't question him right from the get-go on the first invoice that was already way over the initial quote and then you've (presumably) then paid another $1375 on top of the first invoice, then you're pushing shit uphill to get a favourable result now... It was years ago I last got an engineer out but it was around $450-$550 per visit.  That was just to inspect each progress point he gave me for the project.  Is he just doing progress inspections or is he providing engineering diagrams, technical assistance, etc??  If he's not, he's a filthy rip off merchant.  If the $3100 is the final sign off then you need to cop it on the chin, pay it and move on.  If it's not, piss him off and get a new one.  Not many Jeeps I'd value at $10K full stop let alone just engineering fees on a written off, half actual value WOVR Jeep....
×
×
  • Create New...