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Hey guys, figured I'd post it up finally. My story is a little bit different to others even though I am sure that many of you have had this happen as well.

Alrightey I've owned my fair share of cars, however in the time of owning all of them none I had enjoyed more than this little gem.

RB25-DET converted GTR and man! I loved that car!

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I did quite a bit of work on it.

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Spent moneys.

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Anyway, as much as I loved this car, fate was not meant to be :/

Woman driving up our street where I work and lost control after having a heart attack and well... No insurance..= H^5!

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413304-lus31-rb30et-street-track-build/
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So upon having my baby written off, I had to start afresh.. wasn't sure wether I actually wanted to continue building cars, as this is why we can't really have nice things. My car was parked up on the side of the road I was out doing my run.

Anyway I settled on a new Project!

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First thing was first, Tidy up everything and get rid of brown.. blah..

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Got hold of a black dash out of a Passage.

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And continued to make everything black.

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Did all of the oils and had a look under the car.

Entire chassis is full of Nolathaine bushes on everything.

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Then the Issues started.

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Unfortunately the previous owner had put the passenger side loom, under the rear housing of the turbo which had melted a lot of wiring due to excessive heat and well.. Fuses = poof! and limp mode.

Just before this happened, I managed to get a Mod Plate :D

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So I figured I'd do a bit of maintenance.

Brand new Bosch Z32 MAF

Rotor Button

Distributor Cap

New Coil

New Plugs BCP7ES

Had to buy a brand new Loom which I then proceeded to Strip and refresh the entire thing

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Next once the car was back and operational, cooling was next.

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Full service followed by my R33 Radiator adapted to suit R31

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Installed Oil Pressure Gauge and Turbo Timer.

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Got a gauge bracket.

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And some gauges.

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Top hats off and on go the R33 Coilovers,

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The bottom part of the coilover was damaged and was too tall anyway, so I ended up making a custom setup.

I have a choice of 10kg and 8kg springs for the rear. However 8kg is more than enough for the street for me.

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Alrightey so, in regard of coilovers if anyone is interested. I used height and damper adjustable coilovers from an R33 Skyline,

All I had to do was take them all apart.

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Take the top hats off the old shocks and shove them onto the new coilovers.

Then cut off some of the Bush to size

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Got the Roof / Boot / Bonnet resprayed in Gloss Black

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Fitted Adustable Panhard rod, as I was getting a bit of this..

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Then adjusted the height, I still have a lot of room to go up or down.

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Admiring the craftsmenship of the exhaust manifold and its bracing.

Pretty hardcoar

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Removed my R33 Muffler and am deciding on putting it on when I start on my exhaust system,

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Ofcourse Stainless steel cleaning up pretty damn well after a bit of elbow grease..

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or put these on, with a little hot dog muffler.

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Plans now, are

- Two front replacement Drift Tek's in 8.5j +25 (Arriving in 2 weeks on a container).

(ones off the R33 are 9.5 and way too wide for the front as well as one is uberdamaged.)

- S13 Adjustable LCA and Hubs. These are the LCA's I am going to go for. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/240SX-S13-S14-180SX-300ZX-Front-Adjustable-Lower-Control-Arm-Arms-Suspenison-RED-/200764970383?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ebe86558f

- Coilovers to suit with Camber adjustable

- Redrill my R33 Rotors to 4 stud

- Get my Calipers out of my R33 to fit on the R31

- Start on Exhaust going 2.5 inch Dump pipe change over to 3 Inch just before the Wastegate replumb and 3 inch mandrel bent the rest. With a choice of Cannon or Twin pipes hmm....

- Relocate Battery to Boot.

- Remove majority of the wiring that's in the engine bay and tidy the crap out of it.

Alrightey update time, figured it was jungle gym clean up time so I did a bit of thinking..

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Stripped a few panels and the breather hoses.

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Upon looking around a few of the photos of the members rides decided to follow in some of their foot steps.

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Started hiding every wire I can see. I also changed the 382 Omh resistor from a variable to a fixed which I put inside a pen and sealed it up against the weather.

I have had the variable one change value because of vibration which was shit. (Lucky about no rust in the entire car :P )

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Finished product I ended up moving the Catch can to the front passenger side and reran the hoses. Much neater.

Before

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After

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Also got a new TPS, the old one failed on me and the cars response became way too choppy, on off on off. and Misfired like shit at top end

Decided to get some Autosol and polish the crap out of everything that is Stainless or metal. I only have progress pics no finals so far.

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Now plans are to just finish the wiring harness off by wrapping it in the black ribbed tubing to make it neat and clip it neatly to the firewall.

Get brand new Hard brake line and redo the one that is ugly on the top.

Remove all of the stickers in the engine bay

Change all the old bolts to new stainless steel with washers.

Relocate the Alarm thing

Cut 2nd plug off TPS for auto kickdown.

Remove Aircon entirely with the lines from firewall etc.

Make some brackets for the Radiator.

Lengthen / Hide wiring for the CTS

Change Rocker Cover Breather Hoses to longer ones so it Tee's near the catch can. (Maybe?)

Upgrade to a EBC instead of the Turbosmart Tee (It is stuck can't be moved for some reason must be seized). or glued.

Degrease and polish the engine bay.

Polish the shit out of the metal's

Skid :)

Change the Brake Booster from R31 to R33 and new hose to suite. (too lazy to pull it out of my r33 still sitting in the back of the workshop).

Still tossing up whether to remove the Recirc pipe and run no BOV as its so damn fugly with the recirc pipe.. or maybe make the recirc pipe run down by the FMIC under the headlights.

Luse.

Got a little bit Got a few things from work today, a Window Washer bottle and a motor and a smaller universal Radiator overflow bottle.

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These shall be hidden under the bumper.

Luse.

Wrapped the Wiring Harness in Black heatproof-ish tubing. Now need to hide it a bit further down and clip it in place and out of the way, then heatwrap the shit out of the dump pipe.

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Did this temporarily until the battery moves to the boot.

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Fit the new overflow bottle temporarily ziptied as the battery is in the way

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Purchased a Catylictic Converter

100CPI 3 inch

Metal inner and stainless steel.

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Luse.

Sorry guys for so many posts no idea how to edit a post on iPhone.

Just waiting to get some tyres and a flare and It'll be lower. Got to love 18's being able to go low but not chassis low.

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Going to get started on the handles for the doors, Going to do a strip of leather and thread it through and bolt that onto the door. So its a strap not an actual handle.

Test fitted the gauges too.

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My exhaust out of my R33.

Got some handy dandy cutters..

And got cutting..

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I guess it was a backyard job..

Stainless steel pipe welding onto a mild steel pipe

= Leave it to the pro's with at least a tig welder...

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Who ever did this.. is my hero..

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Exhaust all ready for welding ;) Stay tuned. :P

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Luse.

Edited by LUS31

Got my Apexiiieh turbo timer.

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Wired up the gauges

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Still need to change over my mechanical boost gauge from the corner of the drivers side pillar to the left side of the 3 gauge bracket as its a blue light instead of white.

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This one

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Dirty dash needs a clean with that protectant stuff to make it look like new again but anyway

Turbo timer installed

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Finally finished the diff.

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Going for 3.89's this time, current is 3.70

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Needs a lick of paint.

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Waiting on the wheel studs.

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Luse

Alrightey, the front brake and suspension upgrade time.

Got myself some front hubs for S13 with bearings with extended 60mm studs.

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Changed my mind about the GSP knuckles, found some standard ones from fleabay for half the price from a wrecker near my work.

And some Lower Control Arms, ( I've wanted these for awhile, they look pretty spiff :)

And aren't too shabb quality

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Deciding on which coilovers to use over the next week while I await for the arrival of my two front drift teks.

Okay, a few little changes were in order.. the shitty f**ked up paint job that was meant to be properly done in a spray booth but well.. I was lied to so.

New cluster with lower milage to suit chassis

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New Bootlid, with obviously much much lower milage as its very clean.

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aaannddd... New bonnet.

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Much straighter than the other one which hasn't been resprayed a million times.

Luse.

ALSO, removing the garden edging, just got hold of some Arch flaring thingy from QLD Diesel spares

My awesome girlfriend who spends her days polishing and cleaning my car...(Okay not all her days but she helps out more than your average joe.

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New Cluster, 37,000 km's

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Off came the boot lid.

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Old light garnish.

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New bootlid

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New garnish

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It fits much better than before

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New cluster in, tachometer is now working spot on perfectly.

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Luse.

Previous Bootlid is also for sale its off a GXE sedan 1987 pickup Norman Park Area QLD. No rust clean just been painted gloss black with a spray gun, 30$

All of the trims around windows are gone awaiting new ones from Clark Rubber

And I cleaned up all of the glue that was around it

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Replaced the old gator.

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New Gator with red sticccching.

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Will need to remove all of the dash to redo some of the wiring to tidy it up when my Battery Box gets here on Thursday next week.

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Naked again :C

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I said i'd rep NRBE so, sign up guys find em on facebook.

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Dat Ass Can't wait for the paint job.

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Luse.

Plans now are

Interior.

- Strip all of the interior trim and dash

- rip out all of the wiring under the dash

- move battery to boot

- run power cables

- rework the wiring under dash

Install relay for ignition for gauges

Make up harness for gauges using thick wires for no voltage drop

Tidy up wiring for ignition and turn it into a harness

- Make straps for door handles run through door cards.

- Change a few out dated gauges, change location of certain gauges.

Engine Bay

- Move brackets and remove stickers

- Move bov to hot side just after compressor before FMIC.

- Make up new pipe (shorter) than current to fit MAF with a filter

Make up recirc pipe to fit.

- Change to new clamps where required.

- Change to r33 Brake Booster.

- Change to r33 Clutch Master.

- Change to a 2L sized catch can.

Exterior

- Install new rubber seals in doors / windows.

- Professional respray.

- QLD diesel spares lip.

- Rear strut bar

- 2 8.5j Drift Teks for front.

-

I'd love to know paint colour ideas, what ideas does everyone have. Let me know and if you have an example please feel free to share.

Got a quote for a full paint job today with a bit of panel work / new moulds / powdercoating all of the chrome in black.

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Really need to degrease and polish the shite out of the engine bay

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Received the Knuckles and hubs today, still need to get coilovers and Lower control arms.

Got hold of some Arch Flaring for 4x4's

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Tough days at work..

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Put on my lip.

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Battery box ready just need to get some Wire.

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Much better then Garden Crapging, no point spending 200$ on a lip that will probably easily break later on.

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Luse.

Alrightey still no idea how to quote guys sorry, I got the r33 with a blown rb26dett with no turbos or manifolds. So only realistic notion was to take it out and sell it. So I did, I got a fresh rb25det with 57,000kms on the clock and shoved it in. Was fun while it lasted.

It is a

RB30-ET

Spool Forged Pistons

Spool Forged Conrods

Steel Headgasket

RB26 Oil Pump.

ARP Head Studs

ACL Race Bearings.

Front Facing custom Intake Plenum

6Boost Exhaust Manifold

T3-T4 Highflow with Surge Protect

750cc Injectors

Huge GTR Front Mount Intercooler

GTR Blow off Valve

Koyo Alloy 52mm Rad

Z32 MAF

Falcon larger throttle body.

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump.

44mm Turbosmart Wastegate

Tuned for 15 PSI 280KW ATW on Nistune

Full Nolethaine Bushes on every single thing under the car.

Soild Engine Mounts.

KLS coilovers.

Luse. Battery install time tomorrow

Started on the removal of the dash, running the cable through the interior.

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Changed all of the old gauges out and got new ones

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And got carried away with tidying the shit out of all of the wiring.

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Just a tip for anyone wiring anything in, do not use the Ignition wire as power for gauges etc. It eats so much voltage and it drops to 12.0-12.4ish

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Changed the hoses and removed stupid brackets and ran the hose under the booster instead of over,

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Luse.

Haha, she looked at that picture and laughed and told me "men don't know anything about fashion, its high waist jeans".

Dunno now who to believe ;)

Waiting on new carpet to arrive from fleabay.

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Getting a new Air Con face plate made up out of metal to replace old plastic cracked one.

Just got some more cable going to make up a new Block to Chassis ground.

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Luse

Got another cable made up out of the leftovers for the block to chassis earth

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Got some headlight bulbs H4 and H1 for low and high beam. should be nice and bright as well as a blue tinge to it.

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It was time to sort out the filter issue, as I was getting paranoid. I got a feeling that the turbo has quite a bit of sideways play in the bearing of the compressor blade side.

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Because space is an issue..and I cbf moving the piping around for now.

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I decided to make a bracket.

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It will only be temporary I will make a better one later on with some proper material. for now Its garden Edging :P

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It being thin is what I was looking for

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Finished product, very very impressive results. Keeps it safe from dirt, rocks and dust

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It allows a shit ton of airflow. I'd assume its simular to a K&N panel Filter? So pretty content, pulls smooth as now.

Luse.

Nvm I just found info on GCG website, so the turbo is in good condition... fewf.. :P only 4000-5000k's old since rebuild with 360 degree thrust bearing.

"My brand new GT Ball Bearing has shaft play, and I haven't even pulled it out of the box...

Another very common question that is asked daily here at GCG Turbochargers, and it is quite a simple explanation. The ball bearings in a Garrett GT turbocharger operate on a thin layer of oil, and as the turbocharger is new, this layer of oil is not present. Once the turbocharger receives oil pressure, the shaft play will go away immediately. This has not damaged the turbocharger in any way. To assist with lubrication of the bearings prior to first start up, GCG highly recommend using Liqui Moly Turbo Super Lube, which can be found by simply typing in LM-2314 in the search bar in the Online Store. "

http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=93:turbo-stuff-article-3&catid=41:turbo-stuff&Itemid=99

Finished up my headlights couldnt figure out why right wasn't working as I had checked all of the fuses. Apparently I missed one.

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These bulbs are really really bright.

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Did a compression test, and was nervous as I had never done it since I have had the car. To my surprise 185 across all cylinders.

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BCPR6ES-11 Regapped to .9 works like a charm but anyone tell me anything about how its running?

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Sprayed a bit of this.

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And of course needed to revise the stupid air filter.

So I made a backing plate for the MAF and drilled a hole in it.

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Still just as flat

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But seals so much better

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Just need to move the catch can now and secure it with a bracket somewhere out of the way.

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Got started on my Door seal thingies..

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Luse.

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