Jump to content
SAU Community

New To The Scene - Would Like Your Opinions!

GSkylineR33

By GSkylineR33,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

GSkylineR33 Newbie

GSkylineR33

Posted
Posted

Hello all!

Fellow SA'er here!

I am planning on purchasing my first Skyline, an R33 (still unsure about a turbo or not). I am a few months away from getting my full licence and would like your honest opinions on costing and all that. I am aware of the "Cost per Annum" thread, but I was after more local information.

I currently drive a VY commodore as my daily. And believe me when I say I drive as sensible as can be. In saying that, as a daily driver would the Skyline chew through petrol like no tomorrow?

I am aware of insurance being more expensive due to my age, but that is an acceptable expense.

I am currently looking at purchasing a non-turbo (simply because I prefer the looks of the Skyline, and there is a 100% chance that I would not take it to a track day) so I am not too interested in speed and power. HOWEVER I would like to know if there is a MAJOR difference between the GTS and the GTST ( yes I know one has a turbo :) )

I would like to finish by apologising if all this information is located somewhere else (I honestly searched) and would like to thank any and all replies. I am certainly not falling blindly into this sale and welcome all input. THANKS!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
R33 Sleeper Community Regular

R33 Sleeper

Posted
Posted

Defs go for a turbo mate, you really wont regret it! They're really good bang for buck atm as well, can find cleanish ones around quite cheap.

Don't expect much fuel economy even if you drive like an ol' lady, probably round 300kms per tank, give or take.

Turbo model has better components, i.e. stronger gearbox, better brakes, 5 stud etc. etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted

Defs go for a turbo mate, you really wont regret it! They're really good bang for buck atm as well, can find cleanish ones around quite cheap.

Don't expect much fuel economy even if you drive like an ol' lady, probably round 300kms per tank, give or take.

Turbo model has better components, i.e. stronger gearbox, better brakes, 5 stud etc. etc.

I get 300 in town

Nearly 600 on hiway if your not flogging it

Ac on takes a bit more

Only turbo issue is premuim fuel cost more !! And maintenance does too

Na you should get 400-600 a tank on 65 litres not flogging it and 5 spd

Insurance was 5 bucks more then commo vt r8

And country insurance half again from city with high agreed value but old fart no tix or accidents

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nathan1066 Proficient

Nathan1066

Posted
Posted

Make sure that you have it checked by a mechanic... And by that I mean a mechanic that is familiar with turbo cars/imports not some backyard generalist.

It can cost a little bit $100 to $300 depending on how much and how thorough a check they do but in the long term it is worth every cent...

If you don't know one you will find some recommended mechanics mentioned in the forums.

When I bought mine I made it a condition of sale. If they refuse to let it be done ask yourself why :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GSkylineR33 Newbie

GSkylineR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Make sure that you have it checked by a mechanic... And by that I mean a mechanic that is familiar with turbo cars/imports not some backyard generalist.

It can cost a little bit $100 to $300 depending on how much and how thorough a check they do but in the long term it is worth every cent...

If you don't know one you will find some recommended mechanics mentioned in the forums.

When I bought mine I made it a condition of sale. If they refuse to let it be done ask yourself why :)

Already have a mechanic in mind, however ill try and find one like you recommended

Its a good idea to get a compression and a leak down test, as a minimum before you purchase it.

I used this when i purchased mine and it has lots of good info of what to look for.

http://www.skylinesa...uld-i-look-for/

And I already have this printed to take with me :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gts25tnissan Explorer

gts25tnissan

Posted
Posted
http://www.skylinesa...uld-i-look-for/ is good but dont follow it word for word or your neva gona find a skyline lol dnt buy a 33 that has 70k on the clock thats just a lie there coming up 20 years old most older skyline have had a respray in there life iv even had my 34 sprayed cuz of paint fade just get a ascendant report if u can from motor reg and a compression test is smart make sure no $ is owing on the car
Link to comment
Share on other sites
gdawg Enthusiast

gdawg

Posted
Posted

At the end of the day, old skylines are all, well, old and pretty crap, but excellent bang for buck if u go turbo, don't even think about a na, as it will be slower and older than your commy. Get all the usual checks done, but remember they are old cars and you will need change to fix things

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...