Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello every one, Im planning on maxing my current N1 turbos out before purchasing new snails, my tuner told me i will require larger injectors and suggested i go for 1000cc id's, my future plans for hp will be 600hp, so i need to accomodate for this, the question i have is, i have seen many RBs running these sort of figures with the likes of SARD 700cc's is this due to the sards have far better atomisation of the fuel into the intake allowing for far better and more efficient combustion, becasue i'd rather run a more efficient injector then ones that just pump excessive amounts of fuel.

Thank you :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413416-injectors-quality-over-quantity/
Share on other sites

ID 1000s are very popular choice. It doesn't mean that they will pump more fuel for a given power level than a Sard 700. It used to be the case that big injectors didn't work the best at low delivery levels but ID1000s and even 2000s are considered to be fine for 600hp and also give you headroom in case you decide to go E85.

let me correct you. Call Vulture, get bosch 2200's, get them tested and matched, install and still profit hugely over the price of ID2000's.

Spend excess monies on beer and hookers

Not everyone like beer mate.

Cocaine and hookers would have been a nice suggestion too

Do the ID injectors bolt straight in to the rb26 fuel rail and plug? Im keen on the 1000s to run e85 on my gtr with -9s.

I remember down the line in 2002+, large fuel injectors were really only for race cars. Seems quality, control and precision has come a long way.

Do the ID injectors bolt straight in to the rb26 fuel rail and plug? Im keen on the 1000s to run e85 on my gtr with -9s.

I remember down the line in 2002+, large fuel injectors were really only for race cars. Seems quality, control and precision has come a long way.

Yes.

Injector plus rail adaptor plus wiring adaptor = direct fit

Injectors are about $132 each and come with the rail adaptor and plug

Yes.

Injector plus rail adaptor plus wiring adaptor = direct fit

Injectors are about $132 each and come with the rail adaptor and plug

Stock injectors are 10.5mm dia, ID's with adapters are 11mm dia. Although they are abit tight, as Daniel pointed out they do fit :-)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
    • I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).
×
×
  • Create New...