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Hi guys just need advice on a couple of things:

1. My clutch fluid is dropping slowly. I have to top it up every 300ks or so. I think it's my slave cylinder as my master doesn't appear to have any leaks. However the slave doesn't seem to show any signs of leaking either but I really have to get under the gearbox and check, I'm just checking from the side. I do notice small spots of oil that has dropped onto the garage floor however and it is brake/clutch fluid. Anyone know where they usually leak from? Between pushrod and housing?

If i get this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-...-531091958.htm

what do I do about it having no pushrod? Can I use the rod from my busted one? How do I go about pulling the old one apart and putting it in the new one then setting the right travel etc

2. My gearbox feels notchy during shifts, I think it has something to do with the clutch not disengaging fully maybe. Is that possible? Sometimes it's hard to put into first gear, it refuses to go in and I have to let the pedal out then back in a couple of times and it almost always crunches if the revs were high and I put it in reverse too quick. The synchros don't crunch into any of the gears at high RPM though and it goes into first just fine if I'm slowing down and changing to it. What do you all reckon?

3. Oh also. I want to replace my factory front pipe and de-cat. The problem is the only available aftermarket stuff seems to be stainless steel, from luxury sports. The cat back system I currently have is mild steel. Will the difference in thermal expansion between the two cause my gaskets to fail when things warp? Or will things be alright if I bolt it together very tightly and use rubber mounts to allow for some movement? I have no idea haha... Otherwise, does anyone know where I can get a 2.5 or 3inch mild steel replacement to replace the factory front pipe?

Thanks in advance!

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2. My gearbox feels notchy during shifts, I think it has something to do with the clutch not disengaging fully maybe. Is that possible?

Yes. Definitely get the hydraulics sorted first as this problem may go away. Check the gearbox oil level anyway tho.

Strongly recommend you do both master and slave at the same time. If ones dying the other will be ready to go as well.

Masters can leak out the back and drip down the booster (tho IIRC gtst doesnt have a booster) so i guess it would leak down the firewall in that case.

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Hey guys thanks for your replies. I've been told I can get a mild steel one fabricated for a box of beers at a garage if I hunt around so that's probably sorted.

Today as I was driving barefoot for the first time, I felt a drip of something on my foot. Turns out it was clutch fluid, so now I know where the leak is from!

I'll hopefully replace that tomorrow. See if I can get my hands on a slave at the same time :) The supplier didn't know if he had any in stock.

I also do have to do gearbox oil, been putting it off for a while now. Will report back soon!

Thanks again you guys :)

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ARGH ok first issue, the thread on the new master cyl was f*cked. The U bracket would not budge at all because it was seized on there. I have no idea how it happened seeing as I never even touched that section till I needed to adjust pedal throw. Anyway, it's getting replaced.

I have another issue, after bleeding the system. I started the car, it wouldn't go into gear. My slave cylinder only moves just over 1cm so I assume there's not enough throw. My pedal also has like half the travel it used to. So is my thinking right, if I turn the U bracket on the pushrod and bring it out more, essentially lengthening the rod, I'll have more throw so I can push the slave cylinder more too right?

How do I know if I'm adjusting it correctly and how much I need to adjust?

Any information will be awesome, cheers guys!

BTW I have read a heaps of threads on there about clutch adjustment and all that jazz, there seems to be a very knowledgeable member on here called elite racing. Hopefully if you see this, I would appreciate your input :)

Edited by r32obsession
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Ah completely forgot about this, I've managed to sort it now and whilst doing it, what he said on other threads makes sense. So all solved! If anyone encounters the same issues I've had and needs help, feel free to PM me and I'll try help you with what I've learnt. I ended up ditching the factory lines and using a braided clutch line. Saved so much time trying to tighten the stupid flare nut going into master cylinder

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