Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm replacing the cluster in my 33, i've done this once before and what i tried with the fuel gauge was to go and get a full tank, then set the new cluster to full and crossed my fingers.

It didn't work real well, it sort of worked but now it stays full for a long time, then drops like a rock.

The fuel gauge doesn't reset itself / calibrate when you switch the car off or disconnect the battery.

Whats the go ??

Is there a way to have an accurate fuel gauge after changing the cluster ?

It doesnt really have anything to do with the cluster. As far as I know the fuel level in the tank is moitered by a variable resistor which sends a different voltage to the gauge depending on the level.

The gauge just displays this, if you had a problem previously it was either a dodgy gauge or something went wrong with the level sensor.

same thing as when you fill up from empty, the gauge stays at empty till you turn the car on then it slowly rises to full once the voltage is read at the cluster. I've unplugged my cluster heaps of times and it definetly doesnt have to be 'set'

So i should be able to just plug it in as it is and not change anything.

The gauge in the new cluster is currently sitting on about half, the tank is full. When i plug it in and turn it on, the new cluster gauge should go up to full.

I'm pretty sure i just plugged the last one in and hoped for the best though, and it didn't work so that's why i tried the set it to full and get a full tank trick.

It was 6 months to a year ago that i did it though, so i can't be sure if i did that or not.

What you say makes sense though with the gauge just reacting to the variable resistor.

It should work - I'll have a go and see what happens

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...