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Is It Possible To Do A Turbo "upgrade" For A Gts-T Over The Stock On The Cheap?


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Take the advice on the thread.

Some people on this thread need to remember they were a teen (unsure of your age, but im guessing) and werent all-knowing once too. We all start somewhere.

It's not an attack on you, but these 'what turbo can I use' questions pop up every few months, I'm sure for the people answering them it isn't the first time. Hence the snappy answers. + eBay is a swear word on here.

I was asking the same question a few years ago, and was in your shoes. Here are your options if your after under 250kw's (or stock power)

1)

Std turbo replacement (either gd second hand r33 or r34 turbo. Will be $200-350 depending on condish

2)

buy a high flow or get your turbo high flowed. Will allow for a solid 220-240 kw with supporting mods. 2nd hand high flow = usually around $700-800 again- depending on condition.

RELIABLY this option will require either a piggy back ecu (works with your std ecu to allow easier tune ability OR one of Toshis remaps OR a Nistune as a minimum. ) Air flow meter, coil packs, and a dyno tune are ESSENTIAL once you start playing with boost.

Take this advice or bolt on your eBay turbo and enjoy the time bomb. Instead of blowing a turbo when the budget is tight you'll blow a motor when your flat broke. Your choice.

My 2c

Fear, fear lol rookies i love this shit, you must pay out the ass. People got you guys (Not all) by the balls. but i love it. LMAO

If there were an award for this you would have it in the bag. No competition.

Be proud. Not many people are as special as you.

You don't know that the ebay one works thanks to two members - you only know that it worked for them. You don't know about the ones that didn't. Its like people who say they ran the stock turbo at 1 bar for 2 years without a problem. That doesn't mean that you can, just that they were lucky. I won't hate you if you buy an ebay turbo. I advised you to buy a stock replacement but its your car and you can do what you like with it. Just don't ask people for advice and then abuse them if you don't like the advice. Many of us are not blind to the existence of cheaper options but have in the past tried them and found them wanting.

First of all abuse in this thread? Lol what?

Like I said, I DO appreciate all input even if I seem to protest to it i take it onboard, but I will come out and point out if something doesn't make sense to me.

If I buy the stock replacement what guarantees do I have it will be in good condition? It could be the same as mine. Not to mention they go for a similar same price range as the ebay one as well.

Has your current turbo actually failed yet? If not then leave it alone.

If it has failed the cheapest option is to bolt another stock turbo on.

Nah m8 the stock turbo is still spooling. It doesn't seem to be acting much differently aside from the noise since this started. However I am afraid to push it consistently in case debris is making it into the intake.

Here is the stock turbo, about half throttle, about 1pm on 25c day.

View My Video

Here its a bit colder at night, 10 psi. About half throttle at first then kreeping to 3/4 throttle. I wassnt going for a 0-100, just normal pulling away but it turned out that way.

View My Video

Note: the speeding is reading lower than actual speed by about 5%

i understand you man, get the ebay turbo run same psi and you'l be fine. these guys are motor heads and cant touch a skyline without thinking more power. from what i undersatnd your turbo is going and you want a replacement. The ebay one will work and if you running 10psi relatively the AFM starts to max out at about 14psi on stocky. so with the slightly biger one at 10psi you will be very very close to maxing it out. F--ck i mad a 25 live with stock injectors for 3 years at 20psi with 255 walbo pump cheap, Power fc not cheap, Z32 AFM cheap, HKS SSQ bov cheap, FMIC cheap, HKS gt3076 pro s turbo not cheap, good tune cheap, full exhaust 3 inch eaby cheap.

Thats what I figure too.I was having a look at ebay feedback and contacted some members and they seem to be running the ebay replacement on stock cars with no dramas.

Think about it this way, what if the cheap ebay turbo f**ks up, in turn f**king up your motor? That's gonna be an even more expensive process than buying a proper turbo in the first place. Do things right the first time and you have no worries. If you can't afford it wait until you can.

This is what makes me think I should soend $800 or so on a proper hi flow job. But the ebay turbo people ehave been running on 18pis for years and there is another one for $50 more than can handle 22psi apparently. Surely Running one at 14 psi max or whatever the ECU shits out at will be ok?

this thread is getting dumber and dumber.

you cannot put a non standard turbo on the motor and just run it at stock boost. that is not how it works.

proof? have a look at the dyno result thread. stock turbo on 14psi, 200kw (timebomb). Then look at a 3076 or something of that size, close to 300kw. How? but its the same boost? waa waa waa. If you dont understand what you are talking about, do not give such garbage advice.

OP might just listen to you, whack on the ebay turbo which might just work fine and might last FOREVER and then will drive it around on his stock ECU and later wonder why he has fried a piston, done bearings or put a rod through the block. the answer will be because of tight ass stupidity and homosexual advice.

OP if you want to buy a $150 ebay turbo GOOD FOR YOU. buy it. but if you want it to have even a snow balls chance in hell of surviving you will need to get a tune. Last time i checked Toshi was doing remaps for $550, im not sure if that has changed since then.

In simple: non standard turbo = needs remap MINIMUM. no matter what it is. non standard turbo WITHOUT remap = blown motor guaranteed.

You can find threads where ppl have put their new turbo on and blown the motor (untuned) within a couple of days. And as far as they were concerned they were driving under 'safe' conditions and werent thrashing it. Search and you will find. One that comes to mind was a dude who put a 240kw sized turbo on and needed to rebuild the entire motor a couple of days later. Only 40kw extra TOTAL power potential than the stock turbo, and he was running it at stock boost so it was probably also making less power than stock BUT IT STILL BLEW THE MOTOR, because thats how it works.

Put it this way, ill be happy either way. You can take a knowing persons advice and save your motor and I will be happy to hear it, or you can take the monkeys advice and ill be just as happy to read you 'why did my motor die' thread in the next few weeks, with plenty of lols. It will be a hoot.

Enjoy.

Lol @ homosexual advice..

Yes stock turbo 14psi =problem because the stock turbo blades cant handle it.

A 3076 with the same boost =blown engine because it is not the same dimensions or flow as the stanard one and the engine is probably getting way too much air and not enough fuel. Running lean =blown motor.

but I am not really fitting a non stock turbo in the true sense of the word.

I think the ebay unit is bassicaly the same dimensions with steel blades instead of cermaic and this might mean it can hanlde some extra psi but it wont neccesarily force majour changes?

And even if I do find for some reason its flowing/pulling much better than the stock one, I can back of a bit on boost and stay behind what the stock parts can handle. Im not making serious power here. In the future if I do decide to upp the psi on the ebay turbo to see if it can really handle 15+ psi yes I wil be needing new AFM and ECU at the least.

but I am not really fitting a non stock turbo in the true sense of the word.

I think the ebay unit is bassicaly the same dimensions with steel blades instead of cermaic and this might mean it can hanlde some extra psi but it wont neccesarily force majour changes?

You are guessing about that.

Another member said he got that same looking turbo, which im sure there arent 1000 different types of, and made 270kw (with all the supporting mods).

If there was a cheap steel wheel stock replacement it would sell like hotcakes. That cheap turbo is not that.

If it is working and you want to do something on the cheap then do nothing. Doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it. Noises or squealing (that I couldn't hear in your vid) most often comes from exhaust manifold gasket leaks. They are dime a dozen and have started nearly as many threads as I want to upgrade my BOV.

If you want to upgrade the turbo then we are on a completely new topic.

In case this is usefull to anyone here are some Bolt in options I persnally came accross from cheapest to most expensive

1. Ali express turbo -$254 incl shipping to AUS (shipping used to be cheaper and with log in discounts can get down to about $210)

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/turbo-charger-for-nissan-skyline-RB20-25-engine/533424942.html

-font-b-turbo-b-font-charger-for-nissan-font-b-skyline-b-font-RB20-25undefined.jpg

2. Ebay turbo from maxspeedingrods- $400 incl shipping

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Skyline-RB20-RB25-directly-bolt-TURBO-TURBOCHARGER-/150572177522?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230ecd1872

rb2520(2).jpg

I have had a few SAU members tell me it works good up to 18psi they ran it to. Feedback on ebay seems to be all positive for this turbo. But once you leave feedback you cant change it so its unknown if it is all trouble free down the line.

3.Ebay turbo from maxspeedingrods wastegate rated to 21.4psi- $450

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-RB25-RB20-2-0-2-5-S2-bolt-on-Turbo-Turbocharger-/200745050295?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ebd5660b7

I think this is the exact same unit with a smaller wastegate bore.

KLS turbo from 99autoshop -~$800 inc shipping

$T2eC16dHJHYE9nzpfIifBQjhyuHjvQ~~60_12.JPG

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230873216714?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Hyper gear ATR43- Starting from $900

atr43g25a.jpg

http://www.digi-hardware.com/atr43.html

Good reputation can make around 300rkw with supporting mods, You can also get your current turbo rebuilt for less or hi flowed for more. contact them for more details.

Garrett Turbocharger 3" GT3071R HKS GT2835 w/ T25 .64 Hsg & Adjustable Actuator - $1450

$T2eC16JHJGYE9nooiMtEBQS3isz(jw~~60_3.JPG

So basically what all that tech talk comes down to is:

Too lean= kablammo!

And thats really expensive.

If it is working and you want to do something on the cheap then do nothing. Doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it. Noises or squealing (that I couldn't hear in your vid) most often comes from exhaust manifold gasket leaks. They are dime a dozen and have started nearly as many threads as I want to upgrade my BOV.

If you want to upgrade the turbo then we are on a completely new topic.

Yeah lets get back to the problem, the noise, this dude is right check all that stuff first.

You are guessing about that.

Another member said he got that same looking turbo, which im sure there arent 1000 different types of, and made 270kw (with all the supporting mods).

If there was a cheap steel wheel stock replacement it would sell like hotcakes. That cheap turbo is not that.

No I'm not guessing. I made sure I asked him if its the same turbo from the same seller.. I'm not going off looks.

There are many variables to whether something is considered to be seeling like hotcakes as you can see whether it is good or not.

If it is working and you want to do something on the cheap then do nothing. Doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it. Noises or squealing (that I couldn't hear in your vid) most often comes from exhaust manifold gasket leaks. They are dime a dozen and have started nearly as many threads as I want to upgrade my BOV.

If you want to upgrade the turbo then we are on a completely new topic.

Maybe this is the case. Is there any way to test for it or re tighten bolts? It seems to happen more when the car is warmed up though.

Anyway. Turbo whine my car

http://tinypic.com/r/eqshhc/6

Another R33 GTS-T completely stock

No turbo whine

http://tinypic.com/p...p?v=33o6vcg&s=6

and it does sound like every other turbo whine out there.

Also my oil pressure guage is reading just above 0 many times at idle and barely kreep up under accel. Many times I restart the car and it reads normal. Im guessing its the guage and not some oil pressure problem that has blown the turbo.

Edited by sadr33

I think i've read English/Textish/ School holidaysish /Japlish/Jibberish and other assorted languages on forums over the yrs, just when you think you've read

them all, a new one pops up..lmao

cheers

darren

Interesting thread .

I originally met the OP last week , and had a look at his car passing on a friendly favor to diagnose . But in all honesty as i mentioned to him his turbo sounded quite normal and pulled well.

From what he had told me he was running 12 psi with the standard smic, which is a big no no . Initially i corrected him on that and a few other issues which he was ignorant about . But listening to the car through a test drive it sounded like any other RB. Also he pointed out that he had a pod on before , and reverted to the stock box . so thus being his first skyline i doubt he would recognise any difference in turbo induction .

With a pod you never really hear the turbo your really just hearing the induction , and i myself have a stock box and i know its a subtle sound where you can actually hear the turbo spool properly compared to noisy pod. The so called whine is obviously the step down from pod to box. otherwise iv mentioned the rubber gasket on his manifold is gone because its the first iv seen in years that had black soot seaping out , which could additionally add to the noise he hears, which i dont .

All in all i strongly agree with everyones comments about the cheap turbos, definitly not worth the risk in putting one on and clearly they have nothing on a stock turbo , theres a reason why the r33 comes with a garret and not some cheap unknown ebay turbo in it . So do the smart thing , buy a 2nd hand high flow or get yours high flowed , because as mentioned as you change things much more things are needed along side to support , and for starters you need a front mount before you can run a high flow with more boost . Either way your looking at $800 for 2nd hand high flow , and 4 - 500 for an intercooler . apposed to you spending your $400 on ebay which is just going to backfire on you as others have mentioned. I think you should listen to the forum as 99% of us all agree . but thats your choice .

cheers

Edited by sky017

Interesting thread .

I originally met the OP last week , and had a look at his car passing on a friendly favor to diagnose . But in all honesty as i mentioned to him his turbo sounded quite normal and pulled well.

From what he had told me he was running 12 psi with the standard smic, which is a big no no . Initially i corrected him on that and a few other issues which he was ignorant about . But listening to the car through a test drive it sounded like any other RB. Also he pointed out that he had a pod on before , and reverted to the stock box . so thus being his first skyline i doubt he would recognise any difference in turbo induction .

With a pod you never really hear the turbo your really just hearing the induction , and i myself have a stock box and i know its a subtle sound where you can actually hear the turbo spool properly compared to noisy pod. The so called whine is obviously the step down from pod to box. otherwise iv mentioned the rubber gasket on his manifold is gone because its the first iv seen in years that had black soot seaping out , which could additionally add to the noise he hears, which i dont .

All in all i strongly agree with everyones comments about the cheap turbos, definitly not worth the risk in putting one on and clearly they have nothing on a stock turbo , theres a reason why the r33 comes with a garret and not some cheap unknown ebay turbo in it . So do the smart thing , buy a 2nd hand high flow or get yours high flowed , because as mentioned as you change things much more things are needed along side to support , and for starters you need a front mount before you can run a high flow with more boost . Either way your looking at $800 for 2nd hand high flow , and 4 - 500 for an intercooler . apposed to you spending your $400 on ebay which is just going to backfire on you as others have mentioned. I think you should listen to the forum as 99% of us all agree . but thats your choice .

cheers

Heres what I know for a fact, needless to say from my perceptive. There definitely is a whine that was not there before. Its not on a few other stock turbo skylines I've heard. Its not down to me not knowing the difference between intake induction and turbo spool (I recognize the difference). The problem started days if not a week after I fitted the new airbox not right away (the airbox be a coincidence in this)

I also coincidentally happened to comment on exactly that in my OP on the other thread so I know exactly what you are talking about/

"First few days the car drove fine. No more loud induction sound and no loss of performance, all I could hear is comparatively subtle turbo spool which was mostly masked by induction noise in the past."

www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/413033-turbo-now-sounds-like-a-supercharger-and-a-hissing-sound-in-engine-bay

Heres a sound recording. http://picosong.com/33X8/

Go to about 30 seconds. There is a indisputable whine. As I said it doesn't always happen mostly when the car is warm.

About the stock Side mount intercooler vs a front mount. I don't push the car for extended periods. I have "spirited drivings" stints but only for a minute or so before giving it a break. I generally try to go easy on the car and not overwork it. On top of this I have a nismo 400r kit with no mesh in the side ports so I assume the smic is getting very good airflow.

I've seen people run the smic running 15psi and making good power about 220+rwkw. Both in real life and some SAU members. Whether this is a good idea or I dont know.

I was looking at upgrading to a r34 smic. What sort of power is the R34 SMIC good up to?

Id love to go a fmic they arent too much about $400 as you said or so for a kit but it seems its one of the first things the cops see and defect you for?

you hit the nail on the head "Whether this is a good idea or I dont know "...i dont think in my life of drving skylines , (and i have had 4 in my time ) that i have ever seen or know of anyone who has a smic and running 15psi . that is just ridiculous . i would like to see a sau member running that but i dont think there is anyone because im sure most like others that have been flaming you know better . Im not flaming you because car talk aside your a nice guy and im just trying to help , but its okay to be ignorant when it comes to cars . it is best to drop the turbo talk and take the advice , because its clear your an amature at all of this , and if you dont listen to reason you will just end up blowing that engine of yours , mind you it is well past the point of a rebuild hitting close to 400,000 kms it wouldnt take much considering the way it has looked to be kept from previous owners.

The r34 smic is only good up to 10 psi from memory in the past , it is a simple upgrade for those not looking to throw a bigger intercooler in. The whole purpose of running a front mount is to run higher boost and have better flow and cooling.

Either stick to a smic and run no more than 7 psi , or get yourself a front mount . There are options for black coolers and piping , or simply mesh to hide , but you will always have the risk in getting pulled up - its part of the game .

Take your car to a workshop , get your turbo checked out is the best option for you right now , from then you can actually make a righteous decision as what option to do next . Posting here is only heading in one direction , and the more you try go against what is said the more you will cop the flaming and comments.

Good luck

Sadr33 what are you doing Saturday morning/tomorrow? I'd be happy to have a listen and see if I can identify the sound.

i listened to the last recording of it and it sounds normal to me, I have a brand new GTX3076 and it will whine on small throttle openings, sometimes just constant..

if you have ever been on a bus, you'll hear the same thing, i think it mentions something on the garrett website about these noises just being turbulence etc..

Thanks for the advice. I think most recommendations are out of my price range and my options are limited only to what I always knew and that is a cheap ebay or ali baba turbo with a good rep (which is easier said than done). Thanks jatsta and that number guy. Thats at least two members who have had success with the turbo i posted in OP.

I know this likely to make me unpopular but this has never stopped me in the past.

Many seem blind to the existence of cheaper options because its not reputable or cool and refuse to acknowledge it. I just want to know what works.

I hate poor quality knock offs at heart. Many times they simply cause more pain than they are worth. Etc you buy a cheap turbo, spend time or money to fit and and if it fails you that money is down the drain AND you need another turbo again AND you may damage your engine.

But this is different to what many people in the enthusiast scene are doing. Just blindly writing off anything that is not popular and expensive or making fun of it.

I'm not a tight ass, I just plain dead don't have the money to be afford anything better. Id rather drive a cheap skyline and have a chance at being happy with it than not at all. I love to be able to support companies that are enthusiastic about quality and performance like hypergear, instead of mass produced low quality items.

My head is metaphorically drifting after reading this comment. I cant believe I just wasted 10 seconds of my time reading these two paragraphs. Stick 2 what you say mate? You contradict yourself so much in this thread that I have no idea how to reply to you.. as a wise person once said you cant have your cake and eat it 2... i say put the $3-400 toward bus and taxi fare mate because with cheap ass turbos come cheap and unacheivable dreams!

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