Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why is it a waste of money? You could save me some cash here.

Stock blocks have been proven reliable well past 800whp, so unless your building a dyno queen or drag monster... why bother.

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks for all the suggestions. (

Coming away from this and talking to him, I think there is two ways forward for his needs

1. Buy one of the cars already built for $20K, sell his car with damaged engine to somoene who wants to customise a rebuild

2. Get the bolt ons and talk to a builder about what is possible with the rest of the build.

2860-5/7 turbo's $2500

Haltech inc boost controller $2000

Jun Fuel pump $400

IDC1000 Injectors $1000

Fuel rail to suit injectors $350

Fuel regulator + guage $100

Apexi air intake $700

DFI radiator $700

Intercooler $1000

Metal intercooler piping kit $400

Inovated air/fuel guage $200

Oil cooler + relocator with thermostat $1500

Engine in/out $2000

Total $12850 + $7K rebuild

Unsure on what exhust he has, so dumps etc would likely be needed.

Thanks for all the suggestions. (

Coming away from this and talking to him, I think there is two ways forward for his needs

1. Buy one of the cars already built for $20K, sell his car with damaged engine to somoene who wants to customise a rebuild

2. Get the bolt ons and talk to a builder about what is possible with the rest of the build.

2860-5/7 turbo's $2500

Haltech inc boost controller $2000

Jun Fuel pump $400

IDC1000 Injectors $1000

Fuel rail to suit injectors $350

Fuel regulator + guage $100

Apexi air intake $700

DFI radiator $700

Intercooler $1000

Metal intercooler piping kit $400

Inovated air/fuel guage $200

Oil cooler + relocator with thermostat $1500

Engine in/out $2000

Total $12850 + $7K rebuild

Unsure on what exhust he has, so dumps etc would likely be needed.

A few things

1 don't need the apexi intake, stock air box is fine

2 haltec ecu's are rubbish compared to what else is out there

3 you can get a twin entry rail to suit those injectors for less then $150,

4 you dont need big injectors for -7 turbos so no need to change rail

5. Fairly certain there's koyo radiators going for less then 600 (not that that set up needs a big radiator)

6 there's heaps more but I can't be bothered

Thanks for the reply Joe

Please identify the better ECU please and why it is better, most in Aust know the Haltech and can use it well. Vipec is good but not as supported. I'm not up-to-date on the latest advancements.

Are you basing the rest of your comments on a 300kw car? Air box and injectors are limiting at above 300kw I understand. If anything i'd expect the intercooler to be the first thing to be cut.

He'd prefer to get something that is a bit over kill then be on the limit, particularly things like injectors.

Airbox and injectors are not limiting to 300rwkw.

Airbox will do 400rwkw, it's been proven time over. $700 saved.

Stock piping is fine, doesn't look great, but stops compressor surge. $400 saved

Injectors will do around 300-320rwkw, which is what -7s will make max. So you save not needing rail/injectors/FPR etc. $1400 saved

Intercooler is also totally fine. $1000 saved

So $3500 saved already from things you simply do not need, and never will :)

Thanks for the reply Joe

Please identify the better ECU please and why it is better, most in Aust know the Haltech and can use it well. Vipec is good but not as supported. I'm not up-to-date on the latest advancements.

Are you basing the rest of your comments on a 300kw car? Air box and injectors are limiting at above 300kw I understand. If anything i'd expect the intercooler to be the first thing to be cut.

He'd prefer to get something that is a bit over kill then be on the limit, particularly things like injectors.

I've talked to my tuner about different ecu's, Haltechs are not as good as others for a number of reasons and are over rated. the better ecu's out there include Link G4, vipec, autronic.. After talking to him I'd still get an apexi pfc over a haltec

I'd suggest finding a tuner that does one of these, I'm using the link and am often complemented on how smooth the car is to drive, even with the extensive mods I have

My old set up was a 300rwkw set up and I didn't have half the stuff u have listed..

One thing I do suggest is upgrading your fuel pump to a new item nismo/stock what ever u want, and ensure it has plenty of volts to it..

A few things

1 don't need the apexi intake, stock air box is fine

2 haltec ecu's are rubbish compared to what else is out there

3 you can get a twin entry rail to suit those injectors for less then $150,

4 you dont need big injectors for -7 turbos so no need to change rail

5. Fairly certain there's koyo radiators going for less then 600 (not that that set up needs a big radiator)

6 there's heaps more but I can't be bothered

This!

Airbox and injectors are not limiting to 300rwkw.

Airbox will do 400rwkw, it's been proven time over. $700 saved.

Stock piping is fine, doesn't look great, but stops compressor surge. $400 saved

Injectors will do around 300-320rwkw, which is what -7s will make max. So you save not needing rail/injectors/FPR etc. $1400 saved

Intercooler is also totally fine. $1000 saved

So $3500 saved already from things you simply do not need, and never will :)

This!

I'd run with a Nistune or an APex'i PFC.

I've talked to my tuner about different ecu's, Haltechs are not as good as others for a number of reasons and are over rated. the better ecu's out there include Link G4, vipec, autronic.. After talking to him I'd still get an apexi pfc over a haltec

I'd suggest finding a tuner that does one of these, I'm using the link and am often complemented on how smooth the car is to drive, even with the extensive mods I have

So... you haven't actually used a Haltech? what reason's did you tuner give?

I've used a vipec/link and Haltech in my car. IMO Haltech is an awesome ECU, as good, if not better then a Vipec. Would not hesitate to buy another Haltech.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Haven't used a haltech, have been right there standing next to the dyno when cars with haltechs have been tuned.. There's a reason my tuner charges extra to do a haltech and that's cause they are a pain in the ass, he has a standard to which a car needs to be before he lets a car leave.. And haltechs take a lot longer to reach that standard.. And he knows his stuff I assure u

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The values for HID colour are also defined ~ see https://www.legislation.gov.au/F2006L02732/latest/text  ~ goto section 3.9 onwards ....
    • So, if the headlights' cutoff behaviour (angles, heights, etc) are not as per 6.2.6.1.1 without automatic levelling, then you have to have to have automatic** levelling. Also, if the headlight does not have the required markings, then neither automatic nor manual adjusters are going to be acceptable. That's because the base headlight itself does not meet the minimum requirement (which is the marking). ** with the option of manual levelling, if the headlight otherwise meets the same requirements as for the automatic case AND can be set to the "base" alignment at the headlight itself. So that's an additional requirement for the manual case. So, provided that the marking is on the headlight and there is a local manual adjustment back to "base" on the headlight, then yes, you could argue that they are code compliant. But if you are missing any single one of these things, then they are not. And unlike certain other standards that I work with, there does not seem to be scope to prepare a "fitness for purpose" report. Well, I guess there actually is. You might engage an automotive engineer to write a report stating that the lights meet the performance requirements of the standard even if they are missing, for example, the markings.  
    • Vertical orientation   6.2.6.1.1. The initial downward inclination of the cut off of the dipped-beam to be set in the unladen vehicle state with one person in the driver's seat shall be specified within an accuracy of 0.1 per cent by the manufacturer and indicated in a clearly legible and indelible manner on each vehicle close to either headlamp or the manufacturer's plate by the symbol shown in Annex 7.   The value of this indicated downward inclination shall be defined in accordance with paragraph 6.2.6.1.2.   6.2.6.1.2. Depending on the mounting height in metres (h) of the lower edge of the apparent surface in the direction of the reference axis of the dipped beam headlamp, measured on the unladen vehicles, the vertical inclination of the cut off of the dipped- beam shall, under all the static conditions of Annex 5, remain between the following limits and the initial aiming shall have the following values:   h < 0.8   Limits: between 0.5 per cent and 2.5 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.0 per cent and 1.5 per cent   0.8 < h < 1.0   Limits: between 0.5 per cent and 2.5 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.0 per cent and 1.5 per cent   Or, at the discretion of the manufacturer,   Limits: between 1.0 per cent and 3.0 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.5 per cent and 2.0 per cent   The application for the vehicle type approval shall, in this case, contain information as to which of the two alternatives is to be used.   h > 1.0   Limits: between 1.0 per cent and 3.0 per cent   Initial aiming: between 1.5 per cent and 2.0 per cent   The above limits and the initial aiming values are summarized in the diagram below.   For category N3G (off-road) vehicles where the headlamps exceed a height of 1,200 mm, the limits for the vertical inclination of the cut-off shall be between: -1.5 per cent and -3.5 per cent.   The initial aim shall be set between: -2 per cent and -2.5 per cent.
×
×
  • Create New...