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Is there an option for single single sunroof, or are they all twin like mine? I was pleasantly surprised at the headroom and lack of leaks too - yet to have a single drop come through.

I'm right between Blacktown & Baulkham Hills, so I'll be sure to wave to any other stags I see about.

Further news on the go-fast bits, I have a nistune planned for next week so let's see what happens.

Edited by joorsh

There's a good chance that was me ^ I go through that way to my cousins and occasionaly eastern creek, it's funny there seems to be a lot of yellow stags on the forums but I have yet to see another one in person

There's a good chance that was me ^ I go through that way to my cousins and occasionaly eastern creek, it's funny there seems to be a lot of yellow stags on the forums but I have yet to see another one in person

With a Unicorn as it's logo, It's only living up to it's history - being written about more than being sighted :D

Woah, a Double Unicorn - I can't beli.... a Double Unico..... *endless sobbing*

hey joorsh..i seen a yellow stag in blacktown a month or so ago..the lights by kmart and blaktown westpoint..traded waves.lol..possibly u?i own a white s2 dayz

I drive past that way every week but I don't remember - I wave at every stag I see so changes are pretty good :)

I drive past that way every week but I don't remember - I wave at every stag I see so changes are pretty good :)

yea i wave like a crazy man wenever i c anatha stag..get fulli excited.lol.anyways love the stealth fmic.looks real good.should meet ip with some other wagonists in the area.

That plastic sunroof lip is actually pretty sweet. I can drive with the roof fully open and there's zero wind noise. Can also drive in pooring rain and not 1 drop comes in, as long as you're over about 40 km/hr.

I'm currently lining up a NIStune - anyone have advise for DIY installs? I'm expecting it to be pretty straight forward, but never hurts to check.

Edited by joorsh

i personnaly wouldn't self install the board as you have to desolder multilayer circuit board stuff which can get messy if you dont have the right tools

you could take the ecu out and run down to a tv repair shop tho, they have the gear to do it

Hey Tom,

I'm in the middle of installing the same intercooler as yours, the bottom brackets are also flipped upwards but i mounted the top bracket outside inside of it being on the inner(towards the engine). Didn't have to bend the horns or move sensors or anything but my fmic seem if be on a slight slant with the right side being a tad lower than the left side. Was yours the same case?

Cheers,

I managed to get mine flat, but I did notice it was at an angle when I first did the test fit. I used a spacer on one of the brackets to even it out, plus I put both brackets in the vice and "persuaded" them a bit. I didn't use the top bracket at all - I tucked the top tab on the intercooler behind the little metal tab that the grandpa-grill clips into:

_MG_7189-edit.jpg

See on the far right side of that picture, the black tab from the intercooler snugs up perfectly behind the yellow tab from the front grill. Since this pic was taken I've opened up the hole in the black intercooler tab, and the front grill clip goes neatly through both tabs and holds everything together. Looks pretty schmick!

In other news, I attacked the wiring on my car (again). This time with the intention of removing the idiotic japanese car alarm and turbo timer. To my horror I discovered the car actually had THREE car alarms (no, really). I'm not sure if the other two were working and somehow lumped together, or maybe they were old alarms that the previous owner was too lazy to remove. Either way, I pulled it all out along with half a dozen shock sensors, and what appeared to be a GPS tracking beacon. Man I'd love to see what the Japanese security company thinks of the car's current location.

Pulled the entire dash out, and after about 4 hours of re-soldering, shrink-wrapping and fitting that black crinkly hose-stuff, my wiring loom looks stock and beautiful. Mr Nissan would be proud. I did encounter an interesting snag though - my remote keyless entry stopped working, along with the dash clock. Turns out they are both linked to the bottom-right fuse (Sorry for the tiny pic):

Fuses.jpg

According to my translated fuse info, that one is helpfully labelled "Elec Parts":

Fuses%20label.JPG

Informative stuff.

Still, I don't regret buying the english-converted sticker. 2 bucks well spent, and has saved me a dozen times with all the re-wiring I've had to do.

Edited by joorsh

Once it was all back together I consulted a soldering guru friend of mine re: doing the NISTune myself.

He tactfully informed me that I'm a hamfisted bloody idiot and stood a 100%-120% chance of roasting my ECU if I did it myself.

So I took it to Mark at MRC and 6 hours later I had this:

NISTune%20dyno%20AFR.JPG

As much as it upsets me not doing it myself, I'm pretty happy with the results on a basically stock car. Close to 120awkw @ 3000 RPM, big flat torque curve and 13 PSI from 2500 RPM. It's a good match up for a portly wagon. I'm right at the end of the fuel map at max boost, so a Z32 AFM seems like good next step.

The rubber turbo intake pipe is also starting to suck closed. It doesn't shut off completely, but I can see it visibly deforming from about 3000 RPM onwards. This seems like a pretty strange thing to have happen - has anyone else ever noticed this? I think I'll play it safe and just replace it with a piece of alloy pipe or something - I don't want it closing off completely on a hot day (can it even do that?).

Edited by joorsh

the sucking shut of the intake is well documented

stao (hypergear) thinks sleeving it doesn't work

i can't prove him wrong but mine is sleeved i have no issues with the stock turbo on 10psi

what turbo are you running btw?

Just the standard huffer. I'm trying to build this cheap but reliable. Total cost of performance mods so far:

Exhaust: Home made

Boost controller: $310

Intercooler: $300

Nistune ECU: $460

Dyno time: $600

TOTAL: $1670 for approx 50awkw

I've made back close to $500 selling various gauges, screens and electronic bits that came with it, but I've also spent money on boring non-performance maintenance stuff like filters, pumps, oil, brake pads, sparks and such.

Now that I've done all the cheap and easy mods, the next 50 awkw will probably cost 5 times as much.

Edited by joorsh

i'd be careful running 13psi on the stock turbo

10 is regarded as about the safe limit for the neo turbo

i'd factor in:

highflow - $900

retune - $300ish depending on how long it takes obviously

and a fuel pump

most ppl are saying around 230-240kw on the stock injectors and afm

or z32 and injectors will let you max a hypergear highflow out to around 260-280 rwkw

Personally i'm saving up for a highflow and tune, which will probably also need a fmic so there goes $2k

but should get me to around 230rwkw (stock on 7 psi the previous owner had 136awkw so thats a pretty big gain for $2k)

Interesting turn of events - I have always been told that the factory airbox + snorkel is good and flows well, especially with a drop-in panel filter - and that those aftermarket pods are basically worthless.

Well we took off the factory snorkel (left the airbox in place) and gained over 11 awkw, for a total of 215awkw. Put it back on and it dropped straight back to 203/204awkw. So it doesn't seem to flow as well as I've been told! I also noticed the turbo intake pipe didn't seem to suck closed with the snorkel off, so it's definitely a restriction of some sort.

I'm sketching up designs now for my own dodgy airbox mods, intake pipe and CAI, so we'll see what happens.

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