Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so got my new motor in and was having this same issue before, car will crank for 1-2 mins before it starts, during which time i have to pump the f**k out of the throttle evertually it starts fireing.

have had the car at a sparky's and he said there may be a wire that needs to have 12v given to it while cranking to get it started, any idea which wire this is, is a stock ecu at the moment.\

tim

Yep there is a wire that needs to be connected for crank signal.

Pin 43 on the ECU if its s Non NEO 25.

Should be grey with red trace. Needs to be wired to the starter soleniod wire. Black with yellow trace. (Should be one already near the ECU in a plug)

It must already have Pin43 start signal input, otherwise you could crank forever and it's never going to start.

Have you checked the fuel isn't draining back to the tank when the engine is off?

Some fuel pumps need a non return valve. (Bosch 044 etc)

It must already have Pin43 start signal input, otherwise you could crank forever and it's never going to start.

Incorrecto.

All the ECU does when it sees this input is richen up the mixture and i believe advance the timing.

Not having the input just makes it harder to start.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have always resisted the urge to go silly. 8" wide wheels and street friendly spring rates? Check. (Let's not talk about the steadily increasing spread of spherical joints across my suspension!!) Stock turbo, run at 12 psi? Check. Lasted for ?10 years before it died. Highflow put on rather than seizing the opportunity to go G45. You don't need 300 rwkW, let alone the more massive numbers that seem to be essential these days, to have a car that is already way too powerful and fast for a streeter. ~250rwkW is fine. I've never exceeded 200, although I will sneak up above it if and when I manage to get my finger out and do what needs to be done to use the highflow's capacity. You don't need $10k worth of CF bits glued onto the outside. You don't need razor sharp ankle cutting front splitters. You don't need the car to be 2" off the ground. You don't need flawless paint, mirror finished wheels, brand new indicator lenses, etc etc. All these things just make the car impractical and will cause you pain when they get damaged, which is inevitable for a street car. A few nice additions are good. Good seats are good. A nice stereo is good. A/C is good! (46° on the road yesterday and my A/C is degassed again. Was moderately traumatic driving home!) The main reason I stick with a mildly modified old Skyline is that I have had it for  >25 years, the mods are the rolling result of 25 years of things dying and being upgraded opportunistically, coupled with a few "just 'coz" ones. And I hate modern almost all cars. If I was a young buck starting out now.... I wouldn't bother. Cars have a few years left where there is any possibility of interest or fun. Thereafter there will be no such thing allowed or possible. Any time, money and effort spent now on a project would just be a waste.
    • Let's be wary though, if cranking is so far off, what else isn't set right? Are the dead times set right, voltage compensation etc?   It definitely sounds like it's cranking fuel issues, and holding flat to the floor is shutting them down, but I'm with Duncan that if nothing was changed in the ECU at all, and then this started, I'd be more thinking a leaking injector.   Do as Duncan said, drop the oil and make sure it's not full of fuel.
    • It actually means give it less throttle.
    • Yeah if the goal is to drive something then modifying a car is a bad idea.
    • Wowee! She looks like a major handful out there Pete!
×
×
  • Create New...