Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb30 Bottom End For 25/30 Setup

Jonahs33Liner

By Jonahs33Liner,
in Wanted to Buy

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jonahs33Liner Apprentice

Jonahs33Liner

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just pulled the old rb25 bottom end off my rb25det due to putting a conrod through the side of the block, scrapping the 25 block and chasing an rb30 bottom end to put back in it! Was a lag monster before so this will give me the bottom end torque i need as turbo is also being upgraded! Dont mind spending the extra $$ on an already built bottom end to suit 25/30 set up, if anyone knows of any please let me know asap :)

Edited by Jonahs33Liner
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414071-rb30-bottom-end-for-2530-setup/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Jonahs33Liner Apprentice

Jonahs33Liner

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Still looking for an rb30 bottom end, dont mind spending a few thou for one already together or if someone has all the parts but hasnt assembled yet?

ZILLR Experienced

ZILLR

Posted
Posted

I have one not assembled, $5500

Has Nitto rods n pistons all new

Perfect crank with some work done and the blocks been worked on alot to. Call or SMS 0468955352

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder.  S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors:  VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties 
    • FRGTN1
      Fourth gear grind

      By FRGTN1 · Posted

      I’ll try and see it could be the release bearing. As for the 4th gear grind maybe clutch doesn’t disengage properly cause it is slightly like very slightly hard to go into first could be due to the slab cylinder pin being short uni clutch is a twin plate.   Ive attached some assembly photos hopefully you can open the link and see maybe detect what’s wrong https://share.icloud.com/photos/0dc2YvW__Hl6jl-l2_0jejjpg https://share.icloud.com/photos/09e0jkWOK-vP48c1cfY6u3ViA https://share.icloud.com/photos/0b4rDmh5R7pK7fb1VtND73a3g https://share.icloud.com/photos/05eeUi_6dC4DVi80jOUYDgb0g https://share.icloud.com/photos/06335TgY1XxyIJal_wkdQLhzw
    • RB2533
      UniClutch

      By RB2533 · Posted

      Yeah for sure that is peddle adjustment 
    • PotatoCake
      Attesa ETS Pro Install on R33 GTR

      By PotatoCake · Posted

      What are your thoughts on this after having it for a while, worth getting?
    • joshuaho96
      Fourth gear grind

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Downshifts are harder on transmissions than upshifts, the input shaft naturally slows down once disconnected from the engine so the synchros aren't doing all the work. There's no "natural" tendency for an input shaft to increase RPM. Something is not right there, I don't have a great answer on what. You can try a dedicated GL4 75W90, I plan to switch to Motorcraft XT-M5-QS which is supposedly a very good 75W90 for NB Miatas which have a weirdly sensitive transmission from the factory. I would chase down why your clutch is making a hissing noise, that's not normal. It might be no big deal but in the absence of anything else to investigate I would look at that.
×
×
  • Create New...