Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I transferred $150 to this guys account for a V35 double din head unit and never got my goods or even a reply.

How do i get my money back?

jason1987

Rank: RB20DET

jason1987

35 posts

Gender:Male

Location:Canberra. A.C.T

Car(s):V35

Real Name:JASON1967

above are his details.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414101-got-scammed-need-help/
Share on other sites

first stop is to tell your bank that you transfered by mistake and you have not received any goods for this. The bank can lodge a dispute with the bank that the payment went into, and you can try to get money back that way.

Also send it to an admin in the forsale section to be added to the bad trader list

I know you say 'account' - but you didn't happen to pay via PayPal? If so you can lodge a dispute and freeze the funds - I've been burnt before, but PayPal saved me. Always use it now.

Other than that - notify moderator - and then start doing some due diligence. Read his previous posts, type his name into google, his email, his username, facebook etc etc.

I did this when I got ripped on a BOV - I was able to find the guys REAL name, where he lived, where he worked, his work email and mutliple other username accounts on other forums where he had ripped other people off. I put it all together in an email - sent it to his work - and lo and behold, got a response - and my BOV. Lot of stuffing around - but I beat the scam and learnt a lesson in the process.

That sucks to hear. I found his number in another post. Hope this helps. I would ring it everyday until he pays up. I would try the annoyance thing.

Any1 else have some rear splashies they wana get rid of give me a buzz. 0411783449. Pearl white preferable but not compulsary.

Lots of good advice here, just want to clarify what PN-Mad was suggesting.

Banks wont be able to refund the money directly, but I believe Aust. legislation requires all financial institutions to offer a "disputed transaction" service, for a fee. Essentially you take the position to the bank that "the amount went to the wrong account", rather than "I never got the item I paid for", as they wont take on a consumer issue. This worked for me recently, only difference was it was an international transaction. Cost $25 and had the money returned in just over a week.

Failing that, consumer disputes can be heard at the small claims tribunal, if you have a name / or some identifying details and any details of the sale. Do the transfer details have any useful information? (Bank name, location (the BSB), account name etc)

Whatever happens, definitely look at PayPal in future (better protection) and send a note to the SAU Admin/Mods as well. Good luck

Edited by Dreadnought

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shove more foam in it as a minimum if you possibly can. Or steel wool (not the stuff with soap on it!) Baffles / getting the oil out of the air is huge, and should be done at both the cam cover, and the catch can.   I'm about to do a power steering reservoir, and even that needs some thought to make sure air is separated from the oil, to stop evil Cavitation. I'll probably look at doing my own catchcan later on too.
    • I was once told, who it was I'm to old to remember, that the length of the OEM wheels brace supplied with a vehicle is designed long enough for a average person to apply enough torque to do up, and undo the wheel nuts to the specified torque  What a average person is is anyone's guess though, i.e. average fat bastard, average knuckle head, average perfect sized human......like me Unless of course, a tyre shop has ugga dugga'd them up to "torque to yeild/strip" specs, used cross threading as natures lock tight, or a big breaker bar was used to tighten them up to get some nice stretch in the poor old wheel studs Me, I torque wheel nuts to 1 elbow joint click, lower torque settings are based of wrist clicks, higher torque settings are based of shoulder clunks, or total dislocation for anything that requires all of the torques 
    • I think the catch can design is pretty flawed. Evident in the fact that the V2 one moved to a larger top mounted filter which alone would have helped with overflow and reduce restrictions compared with the side filter. I also imagine there was a major improvement to the baffling design. It is worth mentioning that this catch can with the RB20 was never as much of an issue and the high kms RB25 is likely a part of the problem. I have gotten quotes for both a new "Vibrant Gen 3" catch can and to modify this existing ones but that may have to wait until after the track day. I hope the sump/head breathers/drains and cam splash plates will be enough
    • Yep, both. The ratio is 1.8 instead of OEM being 1.7. The rocker bodies are modified with a larger bolt hole and re-threaded with 10mm holes instead of the 8mm YT has stock. Finding out they don't actually fit the stock castings cause a lot of un-impressment by the person in the USA who tapped the new holes for the 'upgraded' YT product. He was very unhappy with them given their previous design did not require 'clearancing'
    • That too, but I think this is why she's put the work into the cam cover baffles. I mean, a catch can should only need to be a catch can, not an oil air separator also. Not to say that putting the effort into having it do a better job of oil-air sep is a waste of time, but doing the sep earlier is always going to make life better. And that should happen now anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...