technical questions on rb30/rb26 GTR

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

Okay i have read the sticky but nearly all that is attaining to the rb25/30 combo..

i have a gtr i want to put the rb30 block in i have the block i know how to do the majority of the work..

QUESTIONS

1) Can i use the rb26 harmonic balancer?

2) if i use an r32 oil pump do i have to fit the jun or tomie crank colett thing? or is it easier to use r33 if so where do i order these from nissan only has part numer on r32?

3) what pistons should i use rb26 ones, i will be goin forgies, plus i am using scat h-beam rods, is that all good?

4) i understand the gtr sump doesnt fit straight on any ideas on what has to be done apparently a 10mm spacer girdle has to be made?

5) it 750 hp safe and what revs can i make i want at least 7500rpm-8000rpm (due to the cams i have already), sub zero say its cool for 8500+, not sure bout that... i will be going the best assembly i can ie. crack testing, o ringing, cross drilled and balnced crank.. do think its all possible...

6) apparently my bonnet wont fit on due to the extra 30mm from the rb30, anyone know for sure... can i modify the engine mounts to get it sitting back down????

Sorry for all the questions, thanks in advance for any answers i really appreciate your wisdom on this...

Daniel

[DESCR8]

Daniel,

Here goes.

1) Yes you can

2) Use a R33/34 oil pump with the collar

3) You should use RB26 ones and set CR to 8-8.5:1

4) There are a couple of ways to make it fit

5) 750Hp is easy and i assume that at the crank, the rev should be kept as close to 7,000rpm as possible. unless you are building a race engine

6) If you lower the engine you will have sump clearance issues just cut a hole for the front of the head to fit through the bonnet and get a bulge made similar to the BA XR8 ones

I am curently building an engine like this but to a much higher level is you need some parts ive got some spares email me [email protected]

Or ask any questions

Jordan

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

cool thanks for the quick reply still more questions though

2) where ca n i get these oil pumps??

3) do you have any new forgies???

4) What are the way? was i on the right track???

5) it will be a race engine, hardly ever driven on street

6) no way cutting a hole that looks homo, must be something i can do??

Currently

Clevite h series bearings

arp main bolts and head bolts

scat 4340 h beam rods

je forged pistons

floating gudgeon

mods to sump amd head oil galleries

a few other things but thats general, it will be pretty full on but not to your level descr8

[DESCR8]

2) Nissan have them

3) Yes ive got a new set of JE 87.5mm that were going into my previous build but i decided for more HP so went to 86mm pistons. Emal me if you are keen on them

4) Yes whos building it for you ?

5) Well if its a race engine whats your budget?

6) Go a dry dry sump have a low profile sump made and then have custom mounts made like i said whats your budget?

Jordan

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

im buildin the engine, i wanted to keep the parts list budget under 4 grand, that is not including machining and so forth but with rods only being 1200 and hopefully the pistons around the same i dont see why i cant do it...what are your thoughts??? I really dont want to go dry sump 1 due to the expense, i know how great it is and all, and 2 due to it will be more drag work than circut... my budget doesnt go on forever id be happy if i got out of it all inclusive for around 6..that include me doing all assembly, prep, install ect ect

[DESCR8]

Well i havent finalised what shell my engine will be going into but if it is a 180SX or S15 thats the only way i can see of fitting a RB25or RB26/30 under the hood without cutting a hole.

Well those rods you have are for a V8 and i think are rated at 800 for the 8 which means that works out to 600hp for the six you will be using. I would recommend and Argo or Eagle rod to suit they are more expensive but i know they will hold up having said that im not saying the scat wont just had no experience with them. My pistons are worth and cost me more than $1200 so unless you are after a top shelf pistons with top ring set i cant help you. Just remember you are aiming at making 800hp from six cylinders which is 133 per cylinder a v8 only has to do 100 per cylinder keep that inmind

Jordan

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

yeah thanks mate, i really appreciate your input.. I understand the pistons might be a bit more it was more a stab at finding out what you were selling for haha... id be really happy with 700-750 hp at the crank that said it is nice if your engine does that with head room for more.... i was told buy a reputable supercharging company in oz that they have seen scats in many supercharged and turbocharged v8's doin 1000hp at the crank... going on cylinder pressures rpms i am willing to trust that the scats will be safe for 800hp???

Please more info needed on this girdle i have to make???? pretty please

I will work out something in regards to bonnet clearance theres no way im having a hole or massive bulge.....

thanks again

[DESCR8]

Well the pistons with Total seal rings owe me $1800 so offers close to that will get them they are brand new, and will be perfect for your HP Levels

As far as my engine having room for more i am going for broke on this engine so i will give it all it takes and hopefully not too much

Jordan

[DoughBoy]

Scat rods > Eagle. Any day of the week.

[DESCR8]

Dough interesting why do you say that ?

Jordan

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

im unsure on eagles specs but scats are 4340 chromoly same as carrillos, are machined and balanced with 1 gram of each other same as carrilos, and come with arp 7/16 2000 non replacable bolts same as carrillos.... i know carrillos are better but for an option thats half the price they stack up pretty good... best h-beam value for money i can find....

[DoughBoy]

Scat have been around for ages doing pretty good work, they primarily do circle track parts which is constant high rpm levels, and alot of the classes require lightweight stuff to really accelerate hard out of the turns. I was checking out one of their lightweight big block chev cranks yesterday, was an absolute work of art. I liked it that much I actually made a serious enquiry about the price ($2500 2nd hand)... but wtf am I going to do with it?

Eagle is a relatively new company with products aimed at the budget end of the spectrum - although in saying this most applications would be well within their limitations.

It's harder to be an innovator of products, rather than mass producing a copy of others.

Edit: Although I find it hard not to giggle a bit everytime someone mentions "scat"

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

hey Sydneykid, what do you do in relation to the taller engine do you cut holes in bonnets???

also i need some more advice on the girdle thing i have to make for the sump is it just a spacer??? if so will 6mm be enough???

Also are there any oil gallery/restrictor stuff i can do?? im goin to reduce the size flowing up to the head any other suggestions???

thanks again ppls

[Fitzpatrick Speed Works]

what water pump pulley should i use as the rb26 and rb30 are different.

hopefully some of you other guys that have done the swap or even done the rb25 swap can help me out....

[GDZ1LA]

so dosnt the std r32 gtr oil pump fit the rb30e's crank? or are u jsut suggesting this as a upgrade?

i am building a rb30/26 running a t88, these are them pumps i have whats fits and whats best?

r32 gtr std

1992 rb25de

2x rb30e std (remember they are hydrilic lifters so should supply enought for solid rb26 head,

what 1 should i use?

[Sydneykid]

so dosnt the std r32 gtr oil pump fit the rb30e's crank? or are u jsut suggesting this as a upgrade?

i am building a rb30/26 running a t88, these are them pumps i have whats fits and whats best?

r32 gtr std

1992 rb25de

2x rb30e std (remember they are hydrilic lifters so should supply enought for solid rb26 head,

what 1 should i use?

The RB30 cranks have the same diameter (small) at the oil pump flange as an R32 RB26DETT/RB20DE/RB20DET/RB25DE. The R33 and R34 RB26DETT cranks have a larger diameter at the oil pump flange, so you need a collar if you are using one of their oil pumps on an RB30 crank.

I would use the R32 RB26DETT oil pump, just check its tolerances and the pressure relief vlave spring rate carefully.

[TurboX]

hey Sydneykid, what do you do in relation to the taller engine do you cut holes in bonnets???

also i need some more advice on the girdle thing i have to make for the sump is it just a spacer??? if so will 6mm be enough???

Also are there any oil gallery/restrictor stuff i can do?? im goin to reduce the size flowing up to the head any other suggestions???

thanks again ppls

Uhhhh..... s13drifter, I am CONFUSED!

On the bottom of your sig you claim to have the very plate you are enquiring about as if you know nothing about said adapter plate.

This is what you pm'd me a few weeks ago...

Hi Greg,

No long term testing has been done but i really cant see where any problems could occure, I have seen how others have done and know mine is a far superior way of doing it, and Nizpro had their circut version going i think for around 3 years. THe plate is 10mm thick and is a high cadium/nickel mild steel whick doesnt rust like normal mild steel... With your combo there is a little work getting it under the hood but talk to people like Cubes who have done theres, my plate only adds 10mm towards the crossmember anyway so its not as if you have to worry about the motor sitting higher than any of the other rwd boys doing the conversion. If you have any further questions let me know.

Regards,

Daniel.

Maybe you would like to enlighten me(/all of us) on this because I was seriously going to consider buying said adapter plate from you.

[Sydneykid]

Uhhhh..... s13drifter, I am CONFUSED!

On the bottom of your sig you claim to have the very plate you are enquiring about as if you know nothing about said adapter plate.  

This is what you pm'd me a few weeks ago...

Hi Greg,

No long term testing has been done but i really cant see where any problems could occure, I have seen how others have done and know mine is a far superior way of doing it, and Nizpro had their circut version going i think for around 3 years. THe plate is 10mm thick and is a high cadium/nickel mild steel whick doesnt rust like normal mild steel... With your combo there is a little work getting it under the hood but talk to people like Cubes who have done theres, my plate only adds 10mm towards the crossmember anyway so its not as if you have to worry about the motor sitting higher than any of the other rwd boys doing the conversion. If you have any further questions let me know.

Regards,

Daniel.

Maybe you would like to enlighten me(/all of us) on this because I was seriously going to consider buying said adapter plate from you.

Daniel is looking at making a full crank girdle incorporating the 4wd adaptor plate. This is a step up necessary in strength for over 1,000 bhp from the RB30 standard crank and block. The last time I priced one it was over $3K. So if Daniel can have it designed and made for a competitive price (like he has for the 4wd adaptor) it is a big step.

[Sydneykid]

what water pump pulley should i use as the rb26 and rb30 are different.

hopefully some of you other guys that have done the swap or even done the rb25 swap can help me out....

I use all the pulleys off the same engine, ie; if I use an RB26 harmonic balancer, then I use an RB26 water pump pulley, an RB26 power steering pulley etc. If I use an RB25 harmonic balancer, then I use an RB235 water pump pulley power steering pulley etc. You also have to use the same brackets as well in some cases, as they are different.

hey Sydneykid, what do you do in relation to the taller engine do you cut holes in bonnets???

I have NEVER had a problem with "taller" engines. The cross over pipe on RB20/25's being 75 mm, is much bigger in diameter than the 28 mm an RB30 block is taller than an RB20/25/26 block. Plus the engine mounts have more than enough meat on them for redrilling the holes in a 2wd application. The sump doesn't extend down past the radius rod mounting sub frame, so there is no reduced clearance.

As for 4wd, the first R32 we did with an RB30/25 had a Sub Zero plenum on it, plenty of room and it had a thick strut brace. The current RB30/26 going in the R32GTST clears easily with the standard RB26 plenum. The last RB30/25 had a Greddy inlet manifold/plenum and a strut/master cylinder brace and it fitted in no problems. There are plenty of GTR's around the world with OS Giken 3 litre kits and they are only a few mm shorter than an RB30. Most have high mounts too.

[GTR-Ben]

The original message is over a year old on the post? Maybe thats the reason some people got confused...