Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey hows it going, ive got issues with my new timing belt which ive put on my rb25 33 skyline

I have an issue as were when i do a few turn overs the engine my timing belt starts to slide off from the cams off my car. I want to know if this is normal, at first i thought it might be due to the new idle bearing and tensioner pulley however i reused the new one and it caused the same problem, now ive torqued up the tensioner fine however i noticed the idle bearing and tensioner arnt exactly alligned as i mean the idler is more pushed in closer to then engine and the tensioner is a bit more out from the engine, which im thinking it could be the cause off it moving.

i want to know what could possibly causing it to slip off the cam gears or is that normal, cause i have made sure all the nuts and washers are there, and there is no missing washers which could be causing this. however i did notice when i took off my original timing belt the idle bearing was scured with only a few threads, cause currently the idler is secured all the way in.

I got a video off the timing belt slipping off. I have made sure as well that all the timing marks are lined up and there 100% on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414399-rb25-timing-belt-problem/
Share on other sites

Without reading the whole thing. This happens if u miss out a washer the idler pulley. Or accidentally added a washer to the idler pulley.

Check the alignment if the idler and tensioners. Adjust as required

Hey hows it going, i pulled down the pulleys and checked it all over again and im 100% sure that ive lined it up exactly as the r33 engine manual says and have made sure all the washers are there with the diagram showing each part.

However i have taken a photo of the pulleys and theres possibly one reason why its off mark i believe its the tensioner and its a bit unalinged and i noticed the idler bearing is a bit more in towards the block and the tensioner is a bit more out is this normal?

I just want to know if you guys see anything wrong in these photos, it would be greatly appreciated.

post-66618-0-69692100-1354004731_thumb.jpg

post-66618-0-33753100-1354004777_thumb.jpg

post-66618-0-46606800-1354004819_thumb.jpg

post-66618-0-43054100-1354004859_thumb.jpg

post-66618-0-66574200-1354004996_thumb.jpg

post-66618-0-27936600-1354005023_thumb.jpg

post-66618-0-63574500-1354005060_thumb.jpg

Tensioner looks like it's at an angle (no it shouldn't be) - It looks like the tensioner stud is bent (have you replaced it?)- either that or the tang for the spring is caught in between tensioner and block like jiffo mentioned, though now i don't think so as it would only looked cock when you did it up. Put a photo up of the the tensioner stud (without the tensioner on it) relative to the idler pulley.

Btw i havent replaced the stud

My guess is that you're going to need to, get oem nissan. I wouldn't think you need a washer to space the idler out though, it looks to me like the angle on the tensioner is what's pushing the belt off

Edited by doo doo

Well ive fixed the issue with the misallignhment turns out one of the washers was the wrong one, and for just in case i replaced the engine stud and the the belt lines up quite nicely.

However i do have another issue unfortunetly, one of the drive belts the one that runs the alternator, got containmainted with coolant which i believe it is squeaking quite a high pitched sound, however i decieded to clean it and i used the wrong stuff for it which was break cleaner which i know shouldnt of, and i should of used warm water and soap. However i decieded to buy a new belt and got a dyco one for $15 i installed it yesterday and now it makes the same squeak, is there a chance i possibly contamiainted the pulleys as well cause when i was spraying i sprayed on the pulleys as well.

I want to know if i take out the radiator and everything and i wash down the pulleys and with warm water and soap should this get rid of the contaiminaton and stop the squeaking.

Because i know that its the altenator/water pump belt as when i loosen tension on the belt, the high pitched squeaking stops and goes away, however the battery light comes on indicating the alternator is providing poor current and power supply.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...