Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a 34 gtt as well and modded to the days.

But I'm inclined to say it could be a number of things. Boost leak, firing issue..

But 10 pound should be fine ad when my motor was stock was running 14 pound no issues.

Fuel your running on ?

Honestly sounds stupid but try Bp 98 with nulon octane boost with ping resistance and see if there is any difference. Does it feel like fuel cut or boost just hesitates then resumes?

If so I'd say start hunting for boost leak..

If you want to see mods on mine go into rb25 mods and Dyno thread I've posted the most recently

It's been said hundreds of times that everyone's car hits r+r at different boost levels. Some are lucky enough to get away with 14+

Forget the octane booster as it quite often fouls plugs.

+1 for GTSboy's post plus check if the rubber intake pipe is sucking shut

Yup second that actually on the pipe sucking shut.

Forgotten bout all the things stock motors sometimes do. But 10 pound should be fine the 34's come with with the 2 stage solenoid as well ?? Can't remember

But in that being said I've had a shitload of skylines and built Silvia's with rb's they all ran 10 pound and many mates running in excess of 10 psi by stock if I remember right s1 and s2 rb25dets have 2 stage boost solenoid which the high setting is 10 pound so yea

Edited by Cyifly

It's not the boost level itself. It is teh amount of air flowing through the AFM that will trigger R&R. And even that is a variable between cars.

If you have a car with the little cooler, and stock exhaust, you will easily be able to run more boost on it before hitting R&R than if you have less restrictive flow paths in and out.

That should be very obvious.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...