Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like I said above, the 6768 had no problems making power, we did not push it ... barely touching 18psi for the 500 awkw. Making the power down low is where we need it then winding up the boost to make the top end is the plan !!

500 awkw is enough to play with (to start with)... I've done about 8 laps in the car so far... 5 at Phillip Is with no power steering and maybe 3 around SMP North Circuit with the Holinger with oil pressure warning alerts, which ended up being a case of trimming down the alert threshold at low rpms.

Should be fun once its sorted!! Still got to get used to the sequential but no problems slaming through the gears with the foot flat to the floor down the striaght !! :)

Ok guys, I need help finding a rear wing... Voltex can't make me one in time, the local APR distributor has not got back to me, He said he was getting a few dual pane Nemo style ones in (designed by the man!!) and I asked that I get my name put on one...

Anyone have any suggestions on where I can get one quickly or know someone that has one lying around ??

It needs to be 1695mm + 200mm long (including end plates) !!

Michaels email is [email protected]

http://www.kognitiondesign.com

Or lightning composites are in aus http://www.lightningcomposites.com.au/

As are topstage.

Edited by DCIEVE

Thanks... Freddy seems pretty good. See how I go. I like his front diffuser too.

Need to find someone to make the wing mounts. Thinking of going around the back and under the car ala GT3 style??

New fuel system was fired up today.

New Turbo should be delivered by end of next week.

Will need to wait for Jim (Tunehouse) to get back before it gets tuned. Gives me two weeks to get everything else done.

Still need to choose wing, get it and sort out mounting.

Front bar needs to be remounted and secured better as it broke the side mounting bolts and was dragging on the ground at speed.

Ive been away, back tommorrow... Time to pull the finger out!!

Do you want it in dry carbon or fiberglass John?

I have a custom widebody fenders that will clear 315/xx/18 11-12 inch easily. I have a spare fiberglass front fenders, Topstage has the moulds for both front and rear fenders atm. If you are keen then you should talk to Freddy but I think you are leaving it too late.

The rear will involve cutting your whole fender off and replace it with a dry carbon piece. The front is "almost" bolt on. I made some modification to the firewall for aerodynamic reason and the fender is shaped for it...if you struggle for time and dont have time to modify the firewall, then cut off the inner "flare" of the fender and bolt it straight on to your car..it should still help with the aerodynamic.....that's if you sweet talk Freddy into working 24 hours.

Best bet is to flare the rear and look for another wide front fender. I searched everywhere before and could not find a dry carbon one or even a wet carbon with aerodynamic on it for the r32 gtr...hence I had to design my own. I even bought one from EA and it did not fit. I am happy help you out if you are stuck and let you have my fiberglass one, if you need it, with the right offer..... I really don't know how much it worth...but it costed me a bomb and lots of hours.

Check my build thread if you want some pictures.

Talk to Freddy John. Between Freddy and I, we have most of the R32 GTR body moulds. I don't really know how much to charge you for using the mould...just ask Freddy for a fair price....happy to help another SAU member.

Good luck John and it will be good to catch up on the day.

Thanks for the offer on the front guards just pm me what you want for the fibreglass front guards and send me some current pics of what they currently look like... I will let you know if I am interested.

I was hoping for a bolt up straight fit solution to the front guards and Im anticipating the rear is not going to be that straight forward.

Im not looking for a long term solution as the car will be going on a diet after WTAC and Im going to have a proper look at the aero.

My priority is to get the mechanical, electrical and chassis sorted and get some seat time... Everything has to work and be reliable hence the looks are not so important for my first WTAC...

The FG were prepared and primed for the mould. They have been wrapped straight after moulding and in storage since. I won't have time to take it out just to take pictures but it should look like this

These look awesome! How much wider are they, and are these actual pics of the guards to fit R32 GTR?

Do they have more clearance for extra lowered cars as in John's car now has the option to go lower as the roll centres are raised?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • have you rotated the car yet? if so how smooth was it?
    • And finally, I had the driver's side airbox off while adding a long drain hose under the oil can to down near the oil filter. Doesn't look good, it has definitely had an turbo oil seal leak and looks like it has been for a long time.....guess I'll have to get a pair of highflows to put on the shelf It's also worth mentioning it has a really strange clamp between the bottom of the airflow meter (which has a big barb/lip on it) and the intake pipe. I've used the magic of MSPaint to show, basically you have to clip out those 2 steel springs which unlocks the hose from the AFM. I used 2 flat screwdrivers, the spring sort of clips into the unlocked position. Reassembly you just pop them both back flat once the hose is far enough up the AFM that the spring clamp is above the barb. Weird to use but much more convenient once your'e used to it compared to trying to do up a hose clamp under the airbox like on 32 GTR
    • The other thing I started was a fire extinguisher bracket.  As with a few other cars previously (350z, Leaf), I'm going to add a bracket between the navigator seat's front bolts, then mount the extinguisher on that. Unfortunately Nissan (probably the same engineer who did the A/T fluid interwarmer) decided that the front seat brackets would be recessed and uneven so the bracket shape was a bit tricky; I ended up doing 1 part under each seat mount (the large hole is because there is a flange under the seat mount to allow for the carpet thickness)   and then a horizontal part between those 2 No final pic yet as the paint needs to dry, I'll post up once that's done  
    • OK, a few half jobs on the skyline this weekend because its booked for a test day at Wakefield Park on 27-Feb. While the Ecutek dongle and app provide display and logging of a heap of engine parameters, they annoyingly don't have access to the auto trans temp. So I grabbed an oil temp gauge from Raceworks which apparently has warning colour change and peak hold, about $95  and their 8mm hose sender adapter Now, I foolishly thought these 2 might work together, but no, the sender needs about 30mm clearance in the fitting and the adapter only had about 8mm. I've cobbled something together with an NPT T piece and blank for now but will try and work out something more permanent as I intend to use the same fitting for the data logger in the future. Under the car, Nissan's engineers decided that only one opportunity for coolant and trans fluid to mix (the radiator) was not enough, and they also added an interwarmer near the sump on the passenger side like the engine oil has: I've cut the hose between the auto trans outlet and the interwarmer inlet and inserted the sender there as that gives the best indication of temp inside the transmission.   From there it is back to the pain of running that sender wire to the cabin, I've run it up near the passenger headlight, into the battery box, across the channel at the back and into the master cylinder area where I ran out of wire length (and patience). Remainder of the job is through the grommet near the accelerator pedal that I've used previously, then across under the dash to where I will temporarily mount it on the console for track days (and remove it other times). The gauge will also need IGN, BAT and earth (I'm not going to worry about illumination as I'll unhook it between track days)  
    • This piece is obscenely discontinued. I honestly hate the frameless window design because the rubber gets stressed and the guides as well every time you open and close the door.
×
×
  • Create New...