Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

The 1:34 was good but the car had a much better time in it.

We struggled with a misfire problem, had a problem with the brakes, blew the turbo gasket and had the catch can filling up with oil going all over the front RH wheel under higher boost due to a plumbing mistake.

I drove the car in practice but John Boston was much faster and due to the problems and the fact that the car was competitive I could not go for joy rides during the event. The car went our for four of the six sessions one of them it was breaking down too much.

The car is sitting on car stands and I have not looked over it. Its got a few oil leaks but at least it is still in one peice.

John Boston reckons it could have done a 32 or maybe a 31 if he had a clear lap and the motor was not breaking down.

Not sure what I will do with it now... I guess I will put the list of things thst need to get done then decide early in the new year.

  • 4 months later...

Hey John,

I haven't seen you for ages but we will have to catch with my brother & do another BBQ. Maybe we can do one when the Bulldogs play your boys.

The car looks amazing & that sequential shift box looks the goods.

I think I still have the video / photos when you first got this car & you started it up at your place.

I haven't been on this site for a while but I will check the progress of your car.

Steve.

Everyone told me it wasn't going to be easy or cheap and when you can't do a lot of the work yourself then it becomes a monumentus task...

I was thinking of giving up and selling it but this would be the easy way out.

I've had experience being part of a couple race teams and have seen the blood sweat and tears that goes into these cars to just get them to the track. I guess I'm lucky because I can afford to do it.

I've gone too far to give up... The car has cost me $160K+ including all upgrades fixes, trailer, getting to the track etc... My biggest disappointment to date is that I did not run the numbers at WTAC. Lucky we had John Boston on board who drove around the issues and managed the 1:34.5. I would have been lucky to crank into the high 30s.

I've been struggling with some health issues and being overweight and unfit has not helped.

I bought the car to challenge myself to get close to a respectable time.

The target is set... No excuses, hopefully we can sort out the issues and get me in the car...

Let the real fun begin!!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...