Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Looking for a quality set of coilovers to buy and fit on my R34 25GT Coupe. I've been told that BC Racing is the way to go and i've narrowed it down to either BC BR Coilovers or BC V1 Coilovers.

To the best of my knowledge, the BR's are an updated model of the V1's and are therefore more expensive.

All i really want is to lower my car a bit without comprising the ride quality. I don't track my car so i don't want anything too stiff.

Which one to go for... BC BR or BC V1

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414526-which-coilovers-for-r34-coupe/
Share on other sites

If I were in the market for new coilovers I'd get Fortune Auto. Enginnered and assembled in the US (not in SE Asia), good value for money and they feel awesome in my mate's R34 4 door!

Still not as good as my Ohlins, but at more than double the price you'd want them to be better :laugh:

Yeah i've heard Tein SS Coilovers are really good but can't find a brand new set for the right price.

BC BR's seem to be the way to go. A few mates who are running them have all recommended them to me.

Any opinions on D2 Coilovers though? As i said earlier, found a good deal on a brand new set which has adjustable damper settings, adjustable front camber and adjustable height.

adjustable front camber

You can't get camber adjustment on coilovers for Skylines. Camber adjustment comes from adjustable suspension arms and/or eccentric bushes

Opinions on D2s? Never have seen them personally, but after a quick search... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/316407-d2-coilover-vs-tein-superstreet-vs-cusco/

Hmmm... OK, thanx Matt. I guess that puts the idea of getting D2 Coilovers to rest. Not enough positive reviews and plenty of negatives.

Think i'm just gonna go with some BC BR's. I don't track my car, a few mates have got them, heard plenty of good things about them and they won't break the bank either so they seem like the logical choice.

Best price i've been able to source is approx. $1200. I've got a friend who vaguely knows how to install them. He's done it on his own S13 but do you guys recommend i get them profesionally fitted with a proper wheel alignment?

Coilovers are easy enough to DIY (yes it's a pain to take out the parcel shelf to install the rears, but still easy). Took me a few hours the first time, just need a jack and some spanners and sockets

You should definitely get a wheel alignment afterwards though, changing the ride height of your car will change your suspension geometry

Ok cool. Should i go for some suspension arms as well? Perhaps some sway bars too.

Although i do not track my car, i do take some turns on the road quite aggressively. Hence, i'm looking to improving the handling and reduce body roll of the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...