Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

At the end of the day that is what warranty is for... Any such major mechanical work outside of a warranty period will be expensive.

I bought a MY12 and was shown the section in the warranty book which allows space for two gearbox replacements!!

These cars are heavy they will stress and break things but they shouldn't unless you are abusing them for long periods.

I'm hoping that the aftermarket guys will have all such issues sorted with the three year warranty period. I'm going to try and get use of my warranty period (for a change!)

Willal have a fix to save your bell housing before its too far gone

In fact they can open the box and fix just about anything

I really don't see why owners need to be so scared of failures that may/may not happen

The potential in this motor is criminal not to exploit with aftermarket parts

lol at 12k

uber exaggerated dealer costs at their finest

the housing can be bought for around 1k shipped

Its not just the bellhousing that gets replaced. Add in Flywheel, bearings and centre shaft.. then it becomes expensive. Apparently mine needs the lot!

hmmm not sure why nissan are replacing your driveshaft after so little kms this is the flywheel housing http://www.speedforsale.com/nissangtrparts/nissan-oem-nissan-oem-flywheel-housing-p-1787.html?osCsid=uhxnoubuikc
I'm not sure why its being replaced if that's not the common thing to do. I wonder what else has gone wrong..?? Or being 2013 parts, maybe there is a design change..?? Edited by Wardski

Its not just the bellhousing that gets replaced. Add in Flywheel, bearings and centre shaft.. then it becomes expensive. Apparently mine needs the lot!

12K is crap. You only need to replace the bellhousing. As domino_z has pointed out it is $800US. Around $1000shipped. Nissan Aus will sell you one for $1400 if you don't want to be a cheap arse like me. In the US, Nissan used to pay the mechanics for 8hrs labour under warranty to replace it, they have now dropped that down to 4hrs. It can definately be replaced without the motor coming out. You would be looking at $3000 tops to have this job done.

The 2011 and 2012 bellhousings are the same part number and as has been told to me these are the ones that have been re-designed to stop the issue from occuring. Willall do make a fix with shims for around $200 to take up the slack but for me I prefered just to buy a new part than I knew was correct from the beginning. I hope this helps somewhat.

12K is crap. You only need to replace the bellhousing. As domino_z has pointed out it is $800US. Around $1000shipped. Nissan Aus will sell you one for $1400 if you don't want to be a cheap arse like me. In the US, Nissan used to pay the mechanics for 8hrs labour under warranty to replace it, they have now dropped that down to 4hrs. It can definately be replaced without the motor coming out. You would be looking at $3000 tops to have this job done.

The 2011 and 2012 bellhousings are the same part number and as has been told to me these are the ones that have been re-designed to stop the issue from occuring. Willall do make a fix with shims for around $200 to take up the slack but for me I prefered just to buy a new part than I knew was correct from the beginning. I hope this helps somewhat.

But I'm getting 2013 parts..... Nissan said the bellhousing, flywheel and shaft are different. Bearing sizes are different too........ Sounds to me like a considerable re-design.

Oh, and 2012's seem to be affected by this issue too. I also thought 2012's were cured, but a mate of mine with a June build 2012 has just been diagnosed (today)...

Edited by Wardski

Be aware that even in a current generation MY12 bellhousing there is a degree of float. Is it making a shocking noise?

he already has (somewhat :P)

check out NAGTROC. a few found defective already...

Edited by Wardski

The MY2010+ GTR uses a different type of shaft location - its retained by clips versus the original. Both will make noise, but the earlier bellhousing will allow the shaft to flog out the entire housing where the later design wont. Neither are the very best design, but the later piece is far far better. Hope that helps :)

So Martin, if you have a 2011-2012 bellhousing out of the car is there anything that can be done to stop all noise? I don't want to put it in and still have it noisy.

http://www.willallracing.com.au/transmission.htm#wr35tsb

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...