Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Pump Question : 600+Hp Rb26

rb26stagea
 Share

Recommended Posts

rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I'm trying to (still) sort out my rebuild, and have been advised that the N1 oil pump I have won't be reliably up to the 400awkw we are aiming for. I was looking at the Tomei or HKS units, but have concerns that they will flow too much and fill the head...? I know the Tomei can be adjusted for flow, but will it be sufficient to make it a safe engine? I'm happy to spend where I need to, but don't want a hand grenade under the bonnet...

Once again, I'm looking for qualified advice from those who have experience with building reliable rb26 engines.

Cheers peeps!

Micah.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414663-oil-pump-question-600hp-rb26/
Share on other sites
Ants Grand Master

Ants

Posted
Posted (edited)

Mate, Tomei Oil Pump will do the job for you for sure.

If you put oil restrictors in your block (also Tomei) that will resolve the oil flow to your head which are not expensive.

Cheers,

Anthony

Edited by Ants
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Tomei have an external adjustment for the bypass. So they are better in this respect to the other pumps.

You need a large capacity sump to go wth it as well as the restrictor as mentioned.

Then make sure the blow by is under control as at the end of the day that is what keeps the oil in the head.
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Tomei pump is the cream of the crop... But as stated you need to then spend on a sump (and then the $$$ each time you service), ensure all the oiling is 100% right and so on.

Search the FI section for more info on N1 pumps, honestly there is not the problem people make out.

Countless people using them fine.

rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the advice guys: already have the tomei baffles fitted, so to be safe I'm looking at the tomei pump and restrictors?

I'm a big fan of overengineered and underworked... I want to do this once and do it right. I just don't want to overspend if its not necessary.

Everything else (bar the turbos: I'm now running hks gtss twins) has been built to support 700+hp

I just want the old girl to be reliable and SAFE.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You need a larger sump - 9L or so. The Tomei "extension" really isn't enough to be really safe... Restrictors and a oil cooler will still see you run low on oil with a Tomei pump.

Reliable and safe is one thing (and can be done), spending 10k more than you need is another :)

Ants Grand Master

Ants

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just a quick question what is it going to be used for i.e. drag, track, occasional street warrior and what car is it going into (I see you have a Stagea which is awesome).

This will assist in clarifying what you may need to do i.e. head oil return feed, sump extension etc...

Edited by Ants
dkbcleaner Proficient

dkbcleaner

Posted
Posted

your making a lot of power and you will definitely need a proper oil control set up. With any larger oil pump you will definitely need a larger sump. have a read of this.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/

and this..

http://hioctaneracing.com/blog/2010/11/19/the-reality-of-the-rb26-oiling-system-part-2.html

rb26stagea Grand Master

rb26stagea

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks all for your advice: according to SK's thread (which I will adhere to), all I need is a 1.5mm restrictor , as my car is 100% street driven.

Very much appreciate the help!

Micah

  • 1 month later...
GTR KID Enthusiast

GTR KID

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I'm on the same boat here I've done a lot of research about problem issues with GTR's mainly oil feed

I am aswell building a 600hp now when I spoke to my mechanic he just suggested that it will be fine to just run with a N1 oil pump and tomei baffles and that would be find I suggested what about a sump and he said it will be fine what are your thoughts

wedge_r34gtr Mentor

wedge_r34gtr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys I'm on the same boat here I've done a lot of research about problem issues with GTR's mainly oil feed

I am aswell building a 600hp now when I spoke to my mechanic he just suggested that it will be fine to just run with a N1 oil pump and tomei baffles and that would be find I suggested what about a sump and he said it will be fine what are your thoughts

As they discussed above, it depends on your intended use:

100% street = can get away with N1 & stock baffeled sump

any track work = High flow pump (Tomie or Nitto) + 9l baffled sump with extended pickup

My thoughts are that's it's better to be safe then sorry.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr
BoyWhoCriedWolf Grand Master

BoyWhoCriedWolf

Posted
Posted

...and yes, it is my stagea engine... Cheers for the quick feedback guys!

Hey Micah, hows the Bimmer going?

I used the N1 on my stagea, I have the tomei baffles in the sump, the car was driven very hard and was tracked. Never had a problem, 375kw at the wheels.

Cheers,

Ken

  • 7 months later...
GTR KID Enthusiast

GTR KID

Posted
Posted

Tomei pump is the cream of the crop... But as stated you need to then spend on a sump (and then the $$$ each time you service), ensure all the oiling is 100% right and so on.

Search the FI section for more info on N1 pumps, honestly there is not the problem people make out.

Countless people using them fine.

could you please send the link for this mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lithium
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Lithium · Posted

      To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • Lithium
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Lithium · Posted

      Outstanding!
    • BaronOBeefdip
      Baron's R34 GT-R build thread - car in Japan for 5 years -_-

      By BaronOBeefdip · Posted

      I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • TurboTapin
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • Murray_Calavera
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
×
×
  • Create New...