Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I didn't think of that Greg, wonder how they'll do that.

it isn't in the factory cluster (at least not on mine).. I looked into this when fitting commsman's CC unit.. you would need to swap the cluster with one that has the indicators..

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

IR cruise was an option. mainly in the 2.5lt cars. to date i have yet to see it factory fitted in anything other than a 2.5.

in regard to switches the later ones are a DIFFERENT caibration to the early ones.

unlike the kit i sell where I load a fixed calibration into it I have a feeling you will be locked to a certain style of switch pending the

calibration used in this software.

food for thought before you go buying switches.

Keen to see how this cruise control/map switching stuff turns out. Had a chat to Matt at ECC About it today when I was down there to buy a Cipher cable.

I'm definitely up for it, I do enough trips between the Sunshine Coast and Brissy or Brissy to Ipswich for work that factory cruise control would be amazing. Would also investigate getting an economy map

Personally, I don't get why everyone is so caught up in the map switching. Someone care to explain it? Sure I understand the benefits of a valet, or even anti theft map.

But really, one map is all thats needed. Economy? well, thats going to be a completly different area of mapping to power, so you can have both! The tuner is only going to change areas of the map you ask him to. If you ask for the bottom end to remain stock, then it will be.

Its like having +11ty boost levels. Why bother, drive with your right foot!

Personally, I don't get why everyone is so caught up in the map switching. Someone care to explain it? Sure I understand the benefits of a valet, or even anti theft map.

But really, one map is all thats needed. Economy? well, thats going to be a completly different area of mapping to power, so you can have both! The tuner is only going to change areas of the map you ask him to. If you ask for the bottom end to remain stock, then it will be.

Its like having +11ty boost levels. Why bother, drive with your right foot!

agreed. now if you are doing E85 and normal fuel swapping with the supporting hardware it would make perfect sense.

agreed. now if you are doing E85 and normal fuel swapping with the supporting hardware it would make perfect sense.

Some uprev supported ecus have flex fuel option. Unfortunately nothing in Australia. :(

Would be epic to flick a switch in uprev and enable flex fuel.

Really flashing takes < 60 secs with a lappy. Not hard.

not everyone has a laptop or wants to own one.

As for switching between maps, from memory, there are 5 when you enable it. Imagine there are only 3. 1 for your every day where you use your foot to control the show. Now, you could have 1 for when you are not that sure how much fuel is left or when the next petrol station (with 98) is coming up. The last map (of the 3) is for when you want a little more... of everything. Our cars also have a "power" setting for the transmission. I personally do not drive with it on all the time either. There are people who do bungee jumping, I don't "get it", but I can understand that "they" want to. Each to their own, and Everest because its there.

As for reflashing, the switch (if you could understand why) would not require pulling over or carrying around a charged laptop. Plus every reflash does include a risk that something could go wrong (eg laptop crash in the middle of a flash).

To me it's a gimmick.

I bought a $50 laptop just to tune. It's only got tuning software on it. Here's a question, if you get the tune by east coast customs, do you actually walk out with a uprev cable? Or just the car tuned?

To me it's a gimmick.

I bought a $50 laptop just to tune. It's only got tuning software on it. Here's a question, if you get the tune by east coast customs, do you actually walk out with a uprev cable? Or just the car tuned?

this goes back to the days of people bitching about locked motec m8 s . tuner would lock the unit so it could not be fiddled with. customer would bitch because their mate had a cable and could not get in.

at the end of it you pay for work to be done by a shop and bot so you can get in and fiddle afterwards.

if you were doing dual maps on the car then fuel switching would bevthevonly real advantage to me. adding a blower to the car hardly makes twin maps worthwhile on a otherwise stock computer.

To me it's a gimmick.

And now your starting to get a smidge of an understanding. :whistling:

One other thing I am hoping to get out of a reflash, is an adjustment of my throttle map. I find the first 2cm of throttle is way too much of the full power. When others have driven my car, this has been the first thing they have commented on; and now that they mentioned it, its bothering me. Having multiple maps at the flick of a switch would mean I would not need to make a commitment to something extremely soft/relaxed. And now I am up to 4 maps... :banana:

Here's a question, if you get the tune by east coast customs, do you actually walk out with a uprev cable? Or just the car tuned?

In the post above by ECC regarding getting our ECU flashed remotely, you also have to buy a cable. I do not understand that (and sent a email to confirm), if they are the ones flashing it. So, it would appear if you do it remotely, we will have to get/pay for a cable. :unsure:

IR cruise was an option. mainly in the 2.5lt cars. to date i have yet to see it factory fitted in anything other than a 2.5.

in regard to switches the later ones are a DIFFERENT caibration to the early ones.

unlike the kit i sell where I load a fixed calibration into it I have a feeling you will be locked to a certain style of switch pending the

calibration used in this software.

food for thought before you go buying switches.

Heaps of guys on G35driver changed their old switches out for the new style with backlit buttons. No one reported that the stereo or cruise stopped working, so if there is a difference it doesn't appear to be enough to cause any issues with factory functions. Any limitations must be in your kit Chris.

I had a Cobb accessport for my mazda MPS which allowed map switching, full control over all parameters and some cool features like flat foot shift and launch control.n

Aside from the FFS and LC, the only maps I ever used were a 'valet' map which limited the car to 0psi boost and 4000rpm and 60km/h - used it once when I left the car at a panel shop. Also had a security map which you load on and it renders the car unstartable until you remove the map, great if you're going away on holidays. Even if they get the keys it won't start.

Other than that I just had it set to the most aggressive tune based on my mods. On a V35 where a tune nets about 20rwkw gain at best, I can't foresee any circumstance where you would need to 'tone it down'. It's like the sport button, who ever actually switches that off??

Personally, I don't get why everyone is so caught up in the map switching. Someone care to explain it?

I agree with you for the most part. However, there is one reason which is the only valid one for me and was the case with the MoTeC M800 in my Maxima back in the day - emissions testing.

Only once did I ever get pulled into an police/RTA inspection bay driving around one night. I switched to my "RTA Map" which basically leaned out the fuel, engaged a less aggressive ignition curve, kept the boost solenoid open and reduced the rev limiter back to 4500RPM. Kept me on the road and out of an EPA building.

Otherwise, you're right. For a naturally aspirated vehicle or even forced induction with very mild mapping, it's not necessary.

I'm using uprev in my N16 pulsar hatch turbo conversion and I couldnt be happier with the product. It's exactly what I wanted out of the car. to retain all the factory cold start and reliability.

I purchased the tuner package and had adam at JEM tune the car. Adam did run into a few initial issues with the software, but that was only due to the fact he'd never used it before.

I myself would love the ability to use map switching, however its not a requirement. It doesn't take that long to reflash the ecu anyways.

I've done a bit of homework with regards to wiring for the cruise control, and my car has none of it in place. It was never an option for the n16 hatches, it was only ever available on the n16 sedan autos.

doing the wiring and installing the additional switches is pretty much a no brainer. It's not hard to compare a couple of wiring diagrams, for that of my car and the b15 sentra(us equivalent) to work out what wiring is missing.

The concern I have is wether the ECU firmware has the ability to receive inputs from these switches and activate cruise control. Which i'm of the opinion it doesn't.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like the solenoid might be cactus, if the solenoid trigger wire was still attached (and it was just the main power to the starter itself remove). Just to provoke Neil haunting me for the rest of my life... Have you tried tapping it with a hammer while someone switches the key to start? This might work for the fuel pump too... šŸ˜›
    • I need help dealing with an engineer who is massively overcharging me for an engineering report on my modified, written-off Jeep to get it roadworthy. šŸ”¹ Initially, he quoted me $3,500 - $4,500. šŸ”¹ First invoice: $5,315 (already above the quote). šŸ”¹ Second invoice: $1,375. šŸ”¹ Now, he has sent another invoice for $3,100! This is way more than double what I was originally quoted. I feel like Iā€™m being ripped off. Has anyone dealt with something like this before? What can I do? Any advice on how to report him or fight these unfair charges? Would really appreciate any guidance! šŸ™ Am in Adelaide.
    • I dunno man, that VX S with 200,000 k's is still hanging out for 1.5 I reckon the R34 is the better buy, personally.
    • Dang, doesn't even include on roads.
    • Only in a market where OBD was a thing. The rest of the world was quite happy to let the US EPA only affect US cars for quite a while. The* problem with datalogs is that unless you are very familiar with what every trace should look like, on their own and as an ensemble, you can and will see weird shit that can and will lead you astray, not realising that what you are seeing is the normal consequence of various transient inputs. *Really, "a" problem, as there are of course many other problems too. Look, these cars are so bloody simple that if it is missing or stumbling, the obvious thing is to break out the old mental diagnostic list and just go do all the things that you know you should. After proving that the plugs are clean and sound, ditto the coil stalks, coils, loom connectors, etc, and then making sure that there is fuel pressure at about the right numbers (while driving!, not while sitting in the garage free blipping it), then maybe you go looking at AFM voltages, manually testing the igniter, putting a scope on the CAS, etc. Then you're into pulling the injectors for a spray pattern look-see and perhaps a clean, squirting carby cleaner around the inlet manifold looking for leaks, and all the more annoying and esoteric, but still common as muck faults that these things have. I wouldn't ever bother looking at the trims, as they are usually bullshit on these old clunkers anyway.
Ɨ
Ɨ
  • Create New...