Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On ‎9‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 8:54 PM, Shoota_77 said:

Wiring-

DSC_7900_1.jpg

DSC_7901.jpg

DSC_7894.jpg

I bought myself an el cheapo Ching Long Lie AC/DC TIG welder so I can do some stainless and alloy wleding.  I've had a bit of a practice to start to get the hang of how it works.  It's a lot harder than MIG welding but I think I'll get the hang of it after a bit (ie a shitload!) more practice.  Just getting the hang of heat control at the moment-

DSC_7880_1.jpg

DSC_7887.jpg

DSC_7902.jpg

grab yourself a gas lense for your tig torch and the end result of these welds should be far cleaner...

Thanks @mr_rbman, I've got a full set of sizes ordered, just waiting for them to turn up.  I think a big part of it as well is I was running it too hot too which was bringing in more impurities.  Now that I've dropped back the amps a bit it seems better.  Still a lot of practice before I'm ready to weld up my exhaust!

  • Like 1
27 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

Thanks @mr_rbman, I've got a full set of sizes ordered, just waiting for them to turn up.  I think a big part of it as well is I was running it too hot too which was bringing in more impurities.  Now that I've dropped back the amps a bit it seems better.  Still a lot of practice before I'm ready to weld up my exhaust!

Just had a look at the wiring pics and had an instant headache :)

Look at it in person @Nismo 3.2ish then you'll know what a headache it really is!!  Nearly at the end of it now though.  I'll finish off the coil pack to CDI module wiring tonight then that will just leave the wideband oxy sensor wiring (once I've welded the bungs to the front pipes) and then thermo fans to do.  There will be a few other additional bits and pieces (additional fuel pump, water/meth kit, etc) but I can see light at the end of the wiring tunnel now!

I'm hoping to hit the key (not to start it just to get oil pressure up and check sensors and other ECU inputs to make sure they're all talking to each other) within the next 2-3 weeks.

 

32 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

Look at it in person @Nismo 3.2ish then you'll know what a headache it really is!!  Nearly at the end of it now though.  I'll finish off the coil pack to CDI module wiring tonight then that will just leave the wideband oxy sensor wiring (once I've welded the bungs to the front pipes) and then thermo fans to do.  There will be a few other additional bits and pieces (additional fuel pump, water/meth kit, etc) but I can see light at the end of the wiring tunnel now!

I'm hoping to hit the key (not to start it just to get oil pressure up and check sensors and other ECU inputs to make sure they're all talking to each other) within the next 2-3 weeks.

 

Some job mate, looking forward to see the outcome :cool:

Thanks mate.

Fuel system will be Nismo pump (which was all I was running on the previous setup) acting as a lift pump into an under car surge tank running twin 044's that will be staged so the secondary will only kick in at a certain range so it's not running 2 all the time.  The Haltech will be monitoring the fuel pressure and act as a failsafe if there's ever a drop in pressure (cut timing or spark).

I'm running through the normal supply pipe plus using the original return pipe as the secondary supply pipe.  I'm running braided AN6 hose as the new return.  Hopefully that doesn't cause any extra restriction but I'll see how it goes.

I'll be mainly running E85 but it will be setup as flex fuel so I've mounted the ethanol sensor in the return line.

 

Finished wiring up the coils to the CDI module, just need to get the right plug leads and then the ignition side of the engine is finally done!

DSC_8001.jpg

DSC_8002.jpg

I went and picked up all of the parts to build my exhaust yesterday. It will be twin 2.75" dumps/front pipes into single 4" all the way through. All up it came to $1300 (excluding dumps and front pipes) so it's going to be an expensive little exercise even with me making it (unless I realise at some point that I'm waaaay out of my depth and get someone else to make it!). It'll all be V Band clamps so provided my welds are ok it should look pretty nice. No mid muffler and rear muffler is a 4" straight through Magnaflow so hopefully it's quiet enough. In my town there are only about 5 Skylines that I know of so I really don't want to stand out from the crowd too much as there's nowhere to hide!

  • Like 3

Exhaust bits-

DSC_8007.jpg

DSC_8008.jpg

Damn 4" pipe is huge! It's going to be a battle fitting it all under there! The Magnaflow muffler is beautiful, I'm very sceptical about the quietness though....

  • Like 1

They mot quiet mufflers lol.. but sound tough though, my fabricator usually uses them on all his V8's and other exhuasts usually with mid mufflers though.  I'll have an idea in few days as my 2530 has 1 magnaflow and large hks muffler right toward the rear.. 

  • Like 1

Yeah I'm a bit worried!  I can always throw another muffler in later on if it's too bad.  No doubt it will sound amazing but amazing and legal are at both ends of the scale!

  • Like 2

Started re-routing the passenger side wiring harness outside the engine bay to tidy it up a bit and also keep the wiring away from the hot side of the engine.  I've had to lengthen a few of the wires but most of them are long enough already.  It will be all neatly mounted along the upper panel-

 

DSC_8011.jpg

 

On ‎27‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 2:56 PM, Shoota_77 said:

I'll finish off the coil pack to CDI module wiring tonight then that will just leave the wideband oxy sensor wiring (once I've welded the bungs to the front pipes) and then thermo fans to do.  

When you do get around to mounting the widebands, have a quick read of where it is recommended to fit them.
I'm sure they'll perform fine no matter where you put them, but longevity is probably the aim behind this (compared to being mounted immediately behind the turbo).

WBC1.jpg

Cheers for the heads up!

The easiest way to do it would have been to use the normal sensor position but unfortunately that's a no no!  Finding the space to put them both is going to be the tricky bit. I'd say they'll be a bit less than 1 metre so hopefully it works out ok.  Someone needs to come up with 90 degree O2 sensors! (If they don't already that is). It's a bit of a surprise they don't seem to have got much more compact over the years.

Thanks again.

 

4 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

mount it before the cat pointing toward the gearbox

I'm running the twin wideband kit so I've got two to try and fit down there somewhere within the primary pipes before they split into 2.

3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

ahhh gotcha, well I have a solution for that problem.. go single LOL

just kidding :)

All in good time.....

Whatever power it makes will be approximately 4.7 times my driving ability so it should do the job for now!

I will do it but I'm desperately fighting the urge.

Hopefully I'll win the mental battle and get big brakes or a 6 speed before I chase more power.  I don't like my chances though. Unfortunately being in sales I get pretty sizeable quarterly bonuses that generally get evaporated on car parts VERY quickly. I know that a big single kit will come out of part of one of those bonuses at some point.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just wanted to share the recent dyno results on my car. 20lbs of boost on pump gas. Pulled the fuse on the AWD so it was only rear wheels on the dyno. It made 484 hp at the wheels. I asked the tuner to see if we could do something so it breaks the 500hp level, but he said that we were maxxed out on pump gas. If i wanted to make more power, id have to go to E85.  7f8604df-f686-466f-b2ec-e1d8a369ddd9.mov    
    • While there is no current law for the spoon, let's swap to a different utensil. Example, does the store get fined for selling a butter knife if it ends up being a murder weapon? Perhaps they cpuld be done for assisting if they *knew* it was going to be for such a purpose. But, if used properly, which was its primary design, it's a tool for a job that's legal. I could understand companies being prosecuted if they advertise their products for being road legal if they in fact, are not. Possibly, but not necessarily, the tuners for tuning a car to a non legal fashion(emissions), but there is always the possibility that the customer really doesn't intend to use the car, in that configuration, on the road. So long as the companies can prove they have conveyed how illegal it is to use the now illegal car, in a place where the vehicle must meet the laws, they shouldn't be punished. Not sure about other countries or states, but I've been made aware that I can't legally stop a client from taking and driving their own car in NSW, Australia, even if they owe the shop money. It must go through court to get the funds from the customer, and you need to get the police or roads covering body representatives to come and stop the owner from driving the car, even if I know how hazardous the vehicle is.
    • probably around the $1700-1800 fitted in his sizes.  The ar1 is heaps cheaper. Get on scumplace I got some A052 295/35/18 for $400 that had done maybe 20-25 hot laps of SMP. 
    • People are going faster on CRS than AR1, so there's that 😕
    • Go the CRS, cheaper than the A052 and same if not better 1 lap performance when suspension is dialled for it. If wanting to do back to back laps the A052 and can cool off and go again next lap will be the better option. I have gone quicker over 1 lap with CRS than the A050 I came from but may be due to getting more seat time. I am driving CRS on the street lately in different conditions and its going well, a lot better than AR1 in the wet. AR1 is a race tyre, CRS is a Hill Climb/time attack/Sprint tyre. 2 different things, a slick is on the way too. The mighty gay mods choice of tyre is proper rubbish for those that actually drive on track not park at bunnings at night.
×
×
  • Create New...