Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE LOW/NO FUEL OR TANK WILL BE TOO HEAVY.

CAR ON JACK/AXLE STANDS or RAMPS IS NEEDED TO GET ACCESS TO EXHAUST COVER.

1a. Pull the fuel pump fuse and start car - it will cut out when fuel is consumed, then disconnect battery

OR

1b. Make sure engine is cold, disconnect battery, undo both fuel hoses in the engine bay slowly so fuel can leak out

OR

1c, undo fuel filter, put on a long temporary hose into a plastic jerry can and turn ignition on to pump fuel out.

2. Remove boot mat, undo 4 screws over fuel pump, lift off cover. Disconnect electrical connectors, disconnect fuel hoses. NOTE THE fuel hose going away from the tank is the pressurised line and needs a good quality screw connector.

3. Under right guard, remove the fuel hose protector plate, then the single screw that holds the filler tube and earth cable.. Loosen off one of the hose connectors so the hose can rotate. Pop fuel lid and push on the centre of the fuel cap - the hose will pop back. Leave fuel cap on.

4. Underneath car, undo the nuts that hold the exhaust muffler pipe heat shielding in place. You probably cant remove this if you have a non-standard exhaust. Leave the exhaust brackets alone.

5. Undo the rear two strap connectors. One is a bolt, the other is a nut, both are 17mm sockets. Use a 12 inch extension bar. Leave the front two straps in place, the straps will flex easily. And one of them is nigh impossible to undo.

6. Drop the tank down and undo the fuel breather tube going back to the car.

7. Tank is now out. Dust it off it will have loads of gravel and dirt on the upper side. Degrease your diff if you want. Remove the heat shield, and remove the filler hose and inside that the metal insert.

8. Put a rag over the hoses still attached to the car, go up to engine side and use a low pressure compressor or your lungs to blow the fuel back out. Then flush with carbie cleaner, and blow out again.

9. Drain remaining fuel, remove fuel tank sender cover, wash with fresh hi-octane fuel, jiggle it and leave it upside down to dry out.

10. Put fuel tank sender cover back on, note that all the rubber seal goes inside the tank.

11. Fit heat shield roughly in place.

12. Reassembly is reverse order, connect breather hose first then lift. Make sure you jiggle the tank to try and get it back in position using straps as a guide. Use a jack on very low pressure to hold it in place. Do each nut/bolt up only a bit at a time to make sure u have it positioned correctly. Make sure you connect the earth strap to the fuel filler tube. Put some fresh fuel in tank, reconnect engine bay, put ignition on to test pressures before finishing up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My plan is to go the pink option. But still add the 4th fitting near the oil cap and just cap it off for now.  That way I can add 2 extra to the sump and have 4 dedicated breathers/drains if I ever remove the sump for any reason. 
    • Oh, yeah, look - here's the thing. You always replace the tensioner when you're going in there to replace a belt....under normal circumstances. You want to make sure it is good and safe, and that you don't create a reason to take the front of the bloody motor apart again. But in this case, OP is replacing a belt that has aged out on time, not usage. The belt is a million miles away from aging out on usage. The belt gets a time "limit" merely because it is made of rubber and can degrade naturally. The tensioner? Not so much. I reckon it could last forever on the current usage pattern. So I reckon if the thing is going to continue to get used at the same rate, replacing the tensioner is somewhat gratuitous. Would I replace it if I was doing it on my car right now? Hell yes. Because my car does 10-20 thousand kays a year. So it's all going to be the same thrashedness. Would I YOLO it on OP's car. More than likely.
    • I dunno. I think any one of those from each side to sump is probably enough. Remember - this is about creating a path for gas flow up from the sump to the cam covers. That gas flow then has to leave via the lines to the catch can. There's probably little point in providing 100% more capacity from sump up to covers cf. what you have from there to the catch can. Put in the 3 convenient ones? Any which way that you see fit. That'd be my thoughts.
    • Getting holes drilled into to cam covers and AN10 fitting welded on. My sump has 2x AN10 fittings on it already. These are the options I have come up with that can be done without needing to remove the sump to add more fittings. In all options front of passenger side cover connects to VCT head drain bung (i know this isn't the best spot but my feeling is it must do something). Option 1 (pink). The back of each cam covers gets its own line to sump. Option 2 (blue). The back of each cam covers are linked and share a line to sump. The front of drivers side gets its own line. Option 3 (Black). Drivers side are Tee'd together and share a line to the sump. Passenger side rear gets its one line to the sump.
    • I'd be surprised if Nissan doesn't mention it in the manual as it seems unlikely that a tensioner is going to last 200,000km.
×
×
  • Create New...