Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

Parting with my full PowerFC D-Jetro kit with boost addon kit, haven't installed but changed my mind and going with a Haltech system.

Looking for a quick sale @ $1800 for the lot. New ones are priced at $1800 without boost addon kit so you're pretty much getting the boost kit for free, get a bargain quick.

The ECU and hand controller are in great condition (nearly look new), the loom is in great condition with no cuts to the wires and the map sensors are great condition. The boost kit is brand new and has only been test fitted, all boxes and manuals uncluded for everything.

The main ECU kit includes:

- Apexi PowerFC D-Jetro ECU (PFC-GTR33D) (3pin)

- Apexi PowerFC Commander

- Apexi PowerFC map sensors x2

- Apexi PowerFC dual map sensor loom which connects to ecu (3pin)

- Apexi PowerFC vacuum lines

The boost addon kit includes:

- Apexi Boost Solenoid

- Apexi Map sensor x1

- Apexi single map sensor harness for boost kit (3pin)

- All fittings still sealed in plastic bag

If you have any questions or want some pics please feel free to PM me, postage and pickup available.

Cheers,

Ash

Edited by ADUBZ

$1200 for the Apexi PowerFC D-Jetro Kit posted (Includes everything needed and hand controller & free hand controller holder)

$400 for the Apexi Boost Addon Kit posted

I will post pics later today.

@Unknown26 - Have a look around standard djetro ecu's + commander going for easy $1200 then add another $350 for map sensors and loom...

@Tmac9091 - yes mate the boost kit will work with standard afm powerfc :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.
    • I've seen some stuff like this as well, not sure if it's a good idea or anything but it does have more standoff from the piping than the conventional fiberglass wrap:  
    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
×
×
  • Create New...