Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

Parting with my full PowerFC D-Jetro kit with boost addon kit, haven't installed but changed my mind and going with a Haltech system.

Looking for a quick sale @ $1800 for the lot. New ones are priced at $1800 without boost addon kit so you're pretty much getting the boost kit for free, get a bargain quick.

The ECU and hand controller are in great condition (nearly look new), the loom is in great condition with no cuts to the wires and the map sensors are great condition. The boost kit is brand new and has only been test fitted, all boxes and manuals uncluded for everything.

The main ECU kit includes:

- Apexi PowerFC D-Jetro ECU (PFC-GTR33D) (3pin)

- Apexi PowerFC Commander

- Apexi PowerFC map sensors x2

- Apexi PowerFC dual map sensor loom which connects to ecu (3pin)

- Apexi PowerFC vacuum lines

The boost addon kit includes:

- Apexi Boost Solenoid

- Apexi Map sensor x1

- Apexi single map sensor harness for boost kit (3pin)

- All fittings still sealed in plastic bag

If you have any questions or want some pics please feel free to PM me, postage and pickup available.

Cheers,

Ash

Edited by ADUBZ

$1200 for the Apexi PowerFC D-Jetro Kit posted (Includes everything needed and hand controller & free hand controller holder)

$400 for the Apexi Boost Addon Kit posted

I will post pics later today.

@Unknown26 - Have a look around standard djetro ecu's + commander going for easy $1200 then add another $350 for map sensors and loom...

@Tmac9091 - yes mate the boost kit will work with standard afm powerfc :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unfortunately,  it feels like it's been on the decline for nearly a decade. Especially as wallet racing became popular with them(biggest wallet can pay off a car that wins). It seems like a different mindset kf ownership these days. But, hopefully people like yourself keep some of the skyline scene alive.
    • A bit of data is always good, beats the Facebook experts with their opinions Although the kWs aren't anywhere near what you are after, it should give you a good indication. I have Bosch 1480cc injectors, often called 1650cc (only when run at 4bar). I run mine at 3bar base so I don't thrash the fuel system. Up top, making 437kW with boost dropping, injector duty is at 69% on E80 (might have had some residual 98RON in there)  
    • I have some downtime due to winter, and just wrapped up converting the car over to flex fuel. We don't get E85 at the pump over here in Canada, but I will be running Ignite E90 Race gas. I'll be mixing it with 99-100 RON pump gas and shoot for 50% ethanol content, up to possibly 85% content if there's any noticeable gains. Here's the question. Most I'll ever want to hit is ~600rwkW. I've currently running 1200cc injectors and want to keep them under 90% duty cycle. As per some online injector calculators, I should be good with 1200's well past 600rwkw on E85. As per other calculators, I'll need 1600-2000cc's. The variety is rather amusing.  With you Australians having E85 at the pump, what realistic duty cycles are you seeing in those kW ranges on E50 & E85 on your injectors? Thanks, 
    • No issues here with my PRP gears in an OEM pump housing. I did confirm all housing clearances were to spec prior though. Cheers. 
    • Thread is a bit old but figured id give my input anyway just incase. Have had lots of water problems in my R32 and was getting sick of wet tools in the boot and water filling up half my taillights. I ended up finding that whenever my car had been repainted they didn't reseal the taillights to the body of the car so water was just flowing straight into the boot, this is amplified by all the water around the bootlid being directed down to the taillights so would get pretty wet whenever I washed the car or it rained. You could probably use silicone to seal them to the body but I think from factory they use a roll of automotive grade butyl rubber. Hopefully this helps you if that ends up being how the water is getting in on your car!
×
×
  • Create New...