Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G,day, Ive been using my R33 GTST for superspints and drag racing, problem is my gearbox has stripped the case hardening of the gears, Ive been told that due to launching and prolonged high G high power (380ish killerwasps) loads the oil in the box gets pushed back and has starved the gears of oil thus damaging them, the oil was Hi-tec and changed every 5000k or so and was at the fill point..

Im going to buy a new box from just jap and want to know should I over fill the box a bit, Im also going to put in some Nulon SYN75W90 and Nulon G70 in it as well.

Unfortunatly I do not have the funds for dog boxs or stuff like that, my max cost is around $3000 for the box and oil and other stuff to get it installed.

Any help or info will be much appriciated.

Thanks, Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414977-gearbox-oil-level-question/
Share on other sites

my info is that you are a very lucky man to have had enough motorsport to wear out a gearbox.

let's face it....some stuff wears out. I'm onto my 3rd box in 8 years. The brand new one I bought lasted OK, but rebuilt second handies have been just as good.

take it to award gearbox and diffs, those guys are cheap and actually know their shit with skyline boxes.

BTW no point overfilling the gearbox, it will just froth up and flow out the breather.

my info is that you are a very lucky man to have had enough motorsport to wear out a gearbox.

let's face it....some stuff wears out. I'm onto my 3rd box in 8 years. The brand new one I bought lasted OK, but rebuilt second handies have been just as good.

take it to award gearbox and diffs, those guys are cheap and actually know their shit with skyline boxes.

BTW no point overfilling the gearbox, it will just froth up and flow out the breather.

Thanks Duncan, my problem is to rebuild it would cost almost as much as a brand new item. $2700 for a new one, or $1500 for rebuild but I need new gears which from my nights of googling are around $1000, and second hand boxs of unknown condition are over $1000.

Seems like I need to win Lotto or stop thrashing the car, Ill wait for Lotto I think, thrashing the car is so much fun.

New box 3k

Giken cluster installed 5k

Personally I overfill mine about 700 mills

When on long track sessions ( longer than 20 minutes at a time) any more it spits out any less it comes out as smoke.. Happy median

Thanks mate, also who is this" Barron " with the Nismo diff stuff, and does he install, I want to be not gay and chip on roundabouts.

Mark

Baron was Beer Baron, so named because he used to bring beer to all the SAU meets. Or you could call him Richard. In any case, it's just about adding some extra clutch plates to the diff. Award can help you with that too.

Lots of people may disagree with me...but I reckon you should check out a PAR gear set; they are fine for medium duty track use, heaps of race cars run them in the state champs.

it's not cheap...unfortunately the faster you go the more it costs.

Didn't Richard also have the ability to be the one inside the barriers at the Nismo Festival in Japan taking pictures and talking to people when mere mortals could not get within 100 metres of the place.

I'm getting it rebuilt at Award gearbox and diff, they will replace everything with new and do a internal mod to help with the oil feed to the front, diff might get some shims as well, works out the same price as the new box but get better syncros (series 3 I believe)and the oil mod so I've got to be happy with that.

Mark, I have a box here if you wanted to have a look at it. I wasn't real impressed with friction modifiers in the box and changed to redline and was quiet impressed. Can get it cheap from gllubricants.

Not sure if you could look at modifying the baffles and making them smaller without stopping too much flow back but could be worth a look.

Hasn't redline got something in it that makes it stick to the gears to hep prevent it going dry as yours has...

I remember seeing a photo of a box or a diff that had blown its casing and you could see the oil still stuck thick to the gears..was quite amazing..

Just not 100% if it was redline or another oil..

Mark, I have a box here if you wanted to have a look at it. I wasn't real impressed with in the box and changed to redline and was quiet impressed. Can get it cheap from gllubricants.

Not sure if you could look at modifying the baffles and making them smaller without stopping too much flow back but could be worth a look.

Hasn't redline got something in it that makes it stick to the gears to hep prevent it going dry as yours has...

I remember seeing a photo of a box or a diff that had blown its casing and you could see the oil still stuck thick to the gears..was quite amazing..

Just not 100% if it was redline or another oil..

I"ve heard that Redline has a new formula that foams up or something, I"ve used it before but ATM I"m scared off it.

I actually just put in the last bit of some shockproof I had lying around, about a litre, LOL, the box still sounds like a grinder.

What didn"t you like about the friction modifiers ? they sound good in the advertising, but then everything sounds good in a ad.

I"m quite willing to pay for any oil that has the extra protection benifits.

I"ve heard that Redline has a new formula that foams up or something, I"ve used it before but ATM I"m scared off it.

I actually just put in the last bit of some shockproof I had lying around, about a litre, LOL, the box still sounds like a grinder.

What didn"t you like about the friction modifiers ? they sound good in the advertising, but then everything sounds good in a ad.

I"m quite willing to pay for any oil that has the extra protection benifits.

Mark, I filled my box up with surfs blood just before three nationals. No issues with it spewing its guts up on the track or on the street.

Plus one for award. Terry is a top bloke!!

Mark, I filled my box up with surfs blood just before three nationals. No issues with it spewing its guts up on the track or on the street.

Plus one for award. Terry is a top bloke!!

Sound good then, I might get some engine oil,gearbox oil, diff oil and waterwetter from them and give the whole range a try.

I just need to get the thing fixed ASAP to get the Minister of War and Finances of my back, again......

  • 4 weeks later...

Started getting some crunching 3rd to 4th today :(

I am thinking to late to try shockproof now, not sure I can get any local so would have to order some

Worth trying or am I also now in the market for a Box or a rebuild, how much does a rb26 box take 2.5ish litres yeah?

car was sposed to be getting light track/drag duties again this year

would be nice to get a trouble free year, I heard that was possible :whistling:

Edited by noone

My gearbox was rebuilt and modified by award, the only original part was the case, everything else was new parts, the mod put a plate in at the rear of the box to stop the oil running back there, the plate has a hole to let some oil get there and for its return so the area does see oil.

There was also some pipe work inside to help flow the oil out too the front of the box.

In the end the box took 4 ltrs of Nulon Full Synthetic 75W-90 Performance Smooth Shift Manual Gearbox and Transaxle Oil with 250ml of Nulon G70, Award said this would be a excellent mix.

On a side note my Coppermix clutch was as newish still, finally a bonus.

In the end the box took 4 ltrs of Nulon Full Synthetic 75W-90 Performance Smooth Shift Manual Gearbox and Transaxle Oil with 250ml of Nulon G70, Award said this would be a excellent mix.

Geez okay thats more than i thought so one gallon bottle of Redline light weight Shockproof wouldnt be enough

One Gallon (4 Quarts = 3.784L)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...