Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i finally went to the exhaust shop n got it checked out. turns out my control box isnt working (the little black box that reverses polarity n that) they're asking for $70 for a new one with the remote. I've barely got any cash at the moment and was wondering if anyone knows of any places to get them cheaper?

or better yet, i've heard there are ways to by pass the box totally, and just have it wired to a switch or something? i get it takes 12v to close and something about reversing the polarity to open again?

I found this diagram on the internet, is this correct? I don't really understand what its saying. hopefully i can find someone that does :ses5lro.jpg

or this this the correct diagram bellow?

post-78310-0-59408300-1357141955_thumb.jpg

Edited by hop1308

couldn't figure out how to do the wiring at all. just bought a new control box and remote. works a charm.

car sounds stock with the butterfly closed.

I've looked into the legality of it, and it seems the whole system itself is illegal no matter what. because there is a way for that exhaust to be louder than the legal limit, and it can be called a noise cloaking device or somethin like that. not too sure how to get around this if i get pulled over lol

the massive VAREX written ontop of the cannon itself doesnt help. i wish i could sand it off.. seriously considering just putting black tape over it lol, but that might draw more attention to it :\

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
×
×
  • Create New...