Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Due to the interest in the AM Performance intake pipe, I've spoken to Andrew and we're now going to do a group buy.

You can see pictures of the intake pipe in the original thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/414739-m35-am-performance-intake/

Build quality and workmanship is top notch. These really are impressive bits of gear.

They will bolt up to the stock turbo and stock airbox, or you can run a pod filter.

AM Performance now sell these online for $480. If we get 5 people, group buy price will be $400.

Delivery will be $20 Australia wide, $50 world wide, and will take 7-10 days.

Group buy will close Monday 17 December or when we have 5 people. I'd rather close early so we can get these sorted before Christmas.

This is a great price for a great product that I'll be dyno testing on Tuesday.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415042-group-buy-am-performance-m35-intake/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lolz.....at Dyno results!

Just add it $100 for every extra KW you get Ryan!

.....like most of them would know what they were looking at anyway. :P

So lets do this properly

So Ryan.

$1,500 - $2,000 for engine dyno hire(including jig)

$120 for oil change

$1,800 for motor in and out

$500 for engine wear and tear

$400 for every day Ryan is without his car

Add that to the frigg'n price.

PS. Roller dyno can be fudged!

New price for Suction pipe....$800 to cover cost of proper dyno results!

lol something like that Craig...

There won't be a 100% accurate figure for what you can gain with the intake. My tune is adding the F-con in, upping the boost and . So when I beat the 166kW I got last time, and hopefully get around what Theo got with his F-con (~210kW), I can't exactly say "Intake pipe gives you a 44kW power increase", because it's a flat out lie.

The intake pipe removes a restriction in the intake and flows better than stock. I think Scotty and Cam found that the intake pipe was required for over 250kW.

180kw lol.

thats where the stock suction stopped scott if im not mistaken.. but again, thats in the day when the dyno was in a different calibration.

hmm, I though it was just on 200 that the intake maxed out. Now that I think of it, all irrelevant as the dyno correction was changed 3 or 4 times along the way :wacko:

180kw lol.

thats where the stock suction stopped scott if im not mistaken.. but again, thats in the day when the dyno was in a different calibration.

Even better.

You buy intake now! :P

hmm, I though it was just on 200 that the intake maxed out. Now that I think of it, all irrelevant as the dyno correction was changed 3 or 4 times along the way :wacko:

It was either that or the dump, maybe 180 was the dump.. But yeh. Cal has been done plenty times over at his dyno lol

So this intake will max out the injectors on most cars with an exhaust and intercooler and standard ecu? I am guessing that it only maxes out the injectors at WOT? WHat does the intake do through the low and mid range of the engine, is there an improvement there or is really only for top end gains? I suppose I'm asking guys who have already done it, what has your experience been notwithstanding you have someone elses intake pipe.

its a little more responsive, a little louder with the stock ecu..

the gains are only really had from the tune itself. you will hit AFM cut in most cases, especially with scotts one, as its 3" minimum up to the turb.

its a little more responsive, a little louder with the stock ecu..

the gains are only really had from the tune itself. you will hit AFM cut in most cases, especially with scotts one, as its 3" minimum up to the turb.

There's no point in going 3" to the stock turbo though, as it only has a 2.5" intake on the front of it. It's TINY! With this design if you go high flow later on you can just get the bottom section modified for the larger turbo intake. Top is all 3" though.

You got 166awkw stock? Farrrrk....

lol. Wasn't stock. That was after full exhaust, AM Performance dump pipe, mid pipe with highflow cat and cat back. Only other mod was a Blitz panel.

Thats why I'd always suggest your first mod should be exhaust. Crazy gains to be had.

There's no point in going 3" to the stock turbo though, as it only has a 2.5" intake on the front of it. It's TINY! With this design if you go high flow later on you can just get the bottom section modified for the larger turbo intake. Top is all 3" though.

Yeh, obviously the 3" is making a difference with the 2.5" though if ones flowing enough to hit AFM cut with the stock turbo, and ones not.

I was just comparing to Scotty's one with the 3" all the way is all, it's the annoying problem I ran into lol

If this one avoids that, will be a good option for some of the mild modders here!

There's no point in going 3" to the stock turbo though, as it only has a 2.5" intake on the front of it. It's TINY! With this design if you go high flow later on you can just get the bottom section modified for the larger turbo intake. Top is all 3" though.

Of course there is a reason to keep it 3 inch to the turbo mouth, less restriction... I match my intakes to the actual hole made by the lathe (every highflow is different) in the front housing, and then tapering it out like a Garrett, a nice smooth funnel into the turbo. At the speed of sound, the airflow needs every little bit of help it can.

That said, how many of you are looking for every KW available? I should have done the same thing myself and compromised the lower intake for the benefit of lower cost, easy fitment and jigging, but as you would all know by now, I try and design my products for the best flow possible.

Hopefully Andrew does well with these, they haven't been a big seller for me over the years. Jump on the group buy guys. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's kind of interesting - They definitely do builds that split the difference between what they like and what will generate views and engagement. The NC Platform always surprises everyone in a good way, in an uncomfortably good way some may say. They could throw a LS in there and arguably have the best (and best performing) car of the entire stable. But that isn't necessarily what draws views, because people viewing don't want to accept the vegetables of a LS NC MX5 being a superior vehicle in every way (including fun) than a RB26 240Z. This is also why there's not a lot of content about the GR Yaris (on the web in general). They're too good, yet 'only a Yaris' The community doesn't want certain cars to be as good as they are - to beat their hero cars, and I believe the NC MX5 is absolutely one of those cars.
    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
×
×
  • Create New...