Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day,

Car is R34 GTT Manual with nistune, been tuned and runs perfectly/idles well. The car doesnt ever stall itself but if i accidentally stall it (new clutch :P ) then when i try start it again it takes a good while to start, just splutters, black smoke comes out of the exhaust, meaning the fuel system is fine, but it doesnt start up.

I switch it on and off a few times then try to restart but it just cranks and chucks out black smoke. After a few tries it finally does start but barely but once its started there is no idle issue, or anything.

Please assist guys :)

Thanks

sometimes with R34 nistune there is a bad read / write and a particular address in the ecu we cannot access to do with crank enrich gets corrupt. Take it back to the tuner, it probably just needs the factory bin relaoded and the tune imported back onto the base.

had this issue with a subaru.

if i stalled my imoboliser would cut off the fuel so the engine would crank. but not start. after a couple of mins would have to lock and unlock the car then it would start....

not saying its your problem, but thought i would try and help!

sometimes with R34 nistune there is a bad read / write and a particular address in the ecu we cannot access to do with crank enrich gets corrupt. Take it back to the tuner, it probably just needs the factory bin relaoded and the tune imported back onto the base.

or its this.

lol.

sometimes with R34 nistune there is a bad read / write and a particular address in the ecu we cannot access to do with crank enrich gets corrupt. Take it back to the tuner, it probably just needs the factory bin relaoded and the tune imported back onto the base.

Had this exact b problem with mine. Tuner finished the tune on the dyno, shut the car down. Un did the straps went to start it and fuel poured out the exhaust. 45Mins later got it going again.

Appears as it might be a Nistune issue, so its best to contact us directly about it for an immediate response and resolution. I've been alerted to this one by Trent so can fill in on this forum. Please email me directly info[at]nistune.com to follow up on this

There was a small batch of Type 4 boards back in May which we have found glitched during programming when flashing the CPLD Xilinx chips on the board.

With the S13 Type-X setup the board would not allow writing, but on ER34 setup the glitch caused intermittent ECU power up issues. It took over a month to identify the problem due to being intermittent and finding it was more than a single board affected. After this we contacted various individuals and tuners with those vehicles to reflash the CPLDs

It could be the case that this problem exists with your board. I can arrange an exchange over board if you contact me directly

sometimes with R34 nistune there is a bad read / write and a particular address in the ecu we cannot access to do with crank enrich gets corrupt. Take it back to the tuner, it probably just needs the factory bin relaoded and the tune imported back onto the base.

I have not seen this before. If you suspect this to be the case please put the board in programmer mode, and read out the board using the Base Image Programmer (Save button to create ENT). Email the ENT file here and I can compare against the matching factory tune to see which maps were changed. So far I have never seen any corruption in Type 2 - 4 boards. The only time I seen it occur is in the vector tables (startup code on the ECU) on a Type 1 board which was 'burned' into the board during tuning after the corruption occurred.

Edited by darkhalf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...