Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i'm no guru, mate. i would like some one to provide the air flow curve or moded values for the vq curve, and i will buy 2 of them asap.

if you can provide these curves then i think that all your R35 AFM's will go like crazy. The jap links are in Japanese and that helps no one mate.

I do believe that the what you describe will come to be more and more main stream, and that you are on to something good, but i have to time the way i jump on this idea.

thanks again why are you selling yours

the Japanese link can be converted but shows the important part in english i.e FC = power fc and r35 afm

I bought a few to test out when I saw they were doing it in japan my last trip now I have one running on my s14 Im selling the extra's

nisstune can supply the vq map to any auth dealer and have already with there latest upgrade

if your tuners a nisstune dealer as well (as alot are these days) Ive sure they'll help them convert it over to the fc

just ask your tuner'

if you tune yourself search vq r35 and images in google Ive come across a few things that look like vq maps to me but Im not 100% not being a tuner myself

Edited by 1400r
  • 2 weeks later...

came across this article in a older drift mag

shows guys running power fc with 100mm pipe making 450ps

with the 35 afm reading airflow ok for tuning other guys running 80mm

for there power levels

sorry pics aren't very clear camera's playing up

post-15018-0-97647500-1356501462_thumb.jpg

post-15018-0-10983700-1356501478_thumb.jpg

post-15018-0-98829800-1356501492_thumb.jpg

Edited by 1400r

Well this is whats happening. after revving the engine it wants to stall but don't after it comes to idle. I can see it push out black smoke at close to idle. I feel as if it has to do with the bigger turbo still spinning to fast and pulling air through the AFM's. i have the BOV's vented back in through a Greddy Y-pipe so I'm thinking that the location of the returning air is fine because the Y-pipe has a spot for the returning air. I notice that i can drive through this phenomenon if i keep in mind that i have to let the turbo slow down by clutching in at the last moment. Only then does it not stall, or come close to it.

any help would be appreciated

Thanks Mate.

I had the exact same problem for a couple of years and it drove me insane. I had 2 Blitz BOV's venting to atmosphere and a power FC on my GTR.

I changed to the stock BOV's and stock intercooler piping and reconditioned the idle control valve and the car now comes of boost without dropping below 1000rpm and idles perfectly!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.
    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
×
×
  • Create New...