Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So.. trying to find someone reliable/affordable to machine dogbones etc. for my V8 Supercar alcons is proving to be a bit challenging. (My calipers https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1094662_10153125748100301_2119536866_o.jpg )

The Alcon extremes (http://www.jdl-brakes.com/alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-6-pot-o365x32-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html) appear to be a much easier upgrade as they come with all the parts ready to install.

Aside from running a smaller rotor, what are the main differences between this kit and the calipers I already own?

Brakes are for a 32 GTR track car, mainly doing sprints.

Well the kit you have allows you to run a bigger rotor with better wheel clearance. It is lighter than the Advantage caliper. But those things are all bee's d1ck things. The one main reason why your calipers are superior is the titanium pistons work waaay better at keeping the heat from the pad out of the brake fluid.

But again, the Advantage kit is pretty damn competent on most track GTRs. Especially if you are going to get stung for $600 for a pair of radial mounts. $800-1000 for the hats and bobbins to work with the V8 Supercar rotor...then lines and pads. Buying $1500 calipers can quickly add up to serious money if you dont have a line on good combination rotors and hats.

If you are going to run those calipers I personally would go brab some off the shelf 380x35mm rotors, either aftermarket or off an R35 and then just pay the money for the radial mounts

Lug mount, is your traditional mounting style that comes standard. Radial mount calipers differ, in that the caliper bolts go through the top of the caliper to the upright. It's regarded as the better, stiffer way to mount the calipers. You can get radial mount dogbones.

So if I run R35 rotors I don't need custom top hats & bobbins?

Is a radial mount the same thing as a dogbone? Who does them for $600?

You can run whatever hat/rotor combination you like but Troys point is that the replacement cost of the rotor (or hat and rotor) is one of the big considerations in its selection. By using a part from a certain vehicle (eg R35) you are getting a component that will be made by a number of different manufacturers which will help keep the price down. Eg Project Mu 324x30 hatted rotor is thereabout of a grand. The 345x32 is double that. The other cost consideration is the price of a pad. same story there. Buy an orphan pattern and you will get screwed every time you need pads.

Yes a dogbone and a radial mount are, essentially the same thing. A radial mount uses bolts that align radially to bolt up the calliper, a dogbone has locating bolts at 90 degrees to that - hence the same as it looks a bit like a dogbone. You need to find a machine shop and give them some drawings. I have tried and utterly failed to find someone for this sort of thing. But this is a one off cost, not a recurring one.

So.. trying to find someone reliable/affordable to machine dogbones etc. for my V8 Supercar alcons is proving to be a bit challenging. (My calipers https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1094662_10153125748100301_2119536866_o.jpg )

The Alcon extremes (http://www.jdl-brakes.com/alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-6-pot-o365x32-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html) appear to be a much easier upgrade as they come with all the parts ready to install.

Aside from running a smaller rotor, what are the main differences between this kit and the calipers I already own?

Brakes are for a 32 GTR track car, mainly doing sprints.

I use Alcon front and rear kit for one year on my R34 GTR. So far 12 track events, and these brakes are best mods I've ever done.

Some 17s ... not all 17s. Based on my experience with 343mm setup and CSC calipers, AP CP5555 and F40/50 calipers and 343mm rotors thinhs like AVS Model 6, Work XD9s, 57 Gram Lights, CE28s etc wont fit inside 17" wheels. Teh CE28s fitted but not enough clearance

Things like Weds, LM GT4s, TE37s etc will do it easy. I have not tried them but people seem to enjoy some luck with Enkei RP-F1s etc

If you want to guarantee fitment inside a 17" wheel then you need to go 332mm rotor

Have just ordered RS 19's for the front for the advantage calipers on a R33 GTR. Will report back.... Anything would be better than the 2500's.

Did you mean DS2500 or DS Performance ? I thought they come with DS Performance http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html

DS Performance pads are better than I thought. When mine kit came, I was ready to put RS29 for first use, but my mechanic put original pads ( DS-P ) by mistake. I can say, for normal street use, they are not bad. I haven't tested them on track, but if someone use car on street only, DS Performance are not bad choice.

I heard that Alcon kits what we buy, are street legal in Europe, that's why they come with street legal pads.

Did you mean DS2500 or DS Performance ? I thought they come with DS Performance http://www.jdl-brakes.com/special-offer-alcon-adv-extreme-brake-kit-front-and-rear-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34-gtr.html

You could be right.

Either way, the pads that the kit comes with are junk.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...