Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just finished putting my R33 GTR back together after changing the headgasket,

Took a few cranks to get it started but when it fired up it sounded smooth and was idling well, oil pressure looked normal, but shortly after a strange whining noise was coming from the car.

I know my thrust bearing was on its way out (you can probably hear that in the vid) but unsure what the hell has happened now!

The battery seems to be a bit low, we have had it on charge but isn't providing as much kick as it should.

Also a sound of escaping air comes from the car after turning it off.

I have also replaced my timing belt with a new OEM nissan one, unsure of how tight they are ment to be, could it just be too tight?

The noise is also horribly amplified due to my shitty phone camera and being in a shed

http://youtu.be/8-tdbWMadnI

Edited by Booki

Very hard to tell but does sound to be belt or idler bearing related.

I would take off your outer belts one at a time and start it briefly in between removing each to see if noise still there.

Spin each of the idlers/tensioners and auxillaries (alternator, water pump, a/c comp) to see if they make any noise or feel rough to turn.

If it's still making the noise with all belts off it's probably going to be the timing belt or again a pulley bearing.

Just drained to the oil,

Does this oil look water contaminated to you?

I threw in some Gulf Western Synx6000 and thats what it came out like. Total run time of the car, maybe 3 minutes?

Note: I filled my radiator up with just tank water to check for leaks/problems before throwing in coolant.

Just took out the spark plugs now, none seem wet, Top of the pistons look a little "moist" could it just be petrol? Getting paranoid again!!

post-91087-0-24978700-1354946719_thumb.jpg

Definately timing belt too tight. Especially being oem one. Gates racing ones make a bit of a whine when engines hot, but the stocker should be silent. Made this mistake myself also :thumbsup:

Just drained to the oil,

Does this oil look water contaminated to you?

I threw in some Gulf Western Synx6000 and thats what it came out like. Total run time of the car, maybe 3 minutes?

Note: I filled my radiator up with just tank water to check for leaks/problems before throwing in coolant.

Just took out the spark plugs now, none seem wet, Top of the pistons look a little "moist" could it just be petrol? Getting paranoid again!!

Thats bad, real bad, did you have water in oil when gasket blew? maybe residue but thats heavily contaminated

Just drained to the oil,

Does this oil look water contaminated to you?

I threw in some Gulf Western Synx6000 and thats what it came out like. Total run time of the car, maybe 3 minutes?

Note: I filled my radiator up with just tank water to check for leaks/problems before throwing in coolant.

Just took out the spark plugs now, none seem wet, Top of the pistons look a little "moist" could it just be petrol? Getting paranoid again!!

Ouch :(

That was the reason for the gasket change, had cylinder number 5 with coolant and smoking.

Was no smoking when I started it...

I'm hoping its just residual...but after your comment fearing the worst

Threw in the left over gulf western and some other various car oils i had in the shed, some leftover Shell Helix 10w-40 & Valvoline 15w-40.

Ran the car similar amount of time and this came out of it.

Think I'm looking pretty good!!

Note to potential people thinking of running cheap oil - Don't, Oil pressure sucks with these oils.

post-91087-0-92251900-1354964782_thumb.jpg

post-91087-0-33191400-1354964799_thumb.jpg

no idea what caused the blown head gasket.....

if you havnt identified the cause of the blown head gasket (detonation, overheating ...?) then its highly likely that it will blow again

Ill take a guess that removing the stock boost restrictor and running stock turbo's on factory tune may have done it.

Car has never over heated, considering its a R33 GTR 1995 model, original unopened motor I would maybe suspect wear and tear/time has caught up with it.

Otherwise it all looked good underneath

Edited by Booki

sounds like detonation damage to me otherwise i would still be looking for a cause . . .the HG are the fusable link on any motor and under normal operating conditions last a very long time. . .ie ive had unopened motors with 300,000 +ks on the original HG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Stock R33 except for suspension, tyres, brakes, and seats is a great ride. Get that power up around the 200mark, and it's great and reliable.
    • Here's the funny thing, my EV isn't that much heavier than its petrol variant. (1773 vs 1510). An R32 GTR is 1430... AND it puts all of the weight in the lowest location. So that's taking some higher up weight, and getting it lower, and all added weight lower. That gives a really nice low CG, and means it doesn't body roll that bad too... The one I'm driving is a Kona, and for a soccer mum SUV on cheapo tyres (not my choice), she'll hold the road surprisingly well. The only part that you've got to be aware of for cornering, is that at 80kmh it will still break into wheel spin, and if you lift off, regen breaking hits in hard. Hence in sports mode, I have regen breaking dialled back to its lightest setting without being off, other wise it's really jerky to drive if you want to roll out of the power a little.
    • There was a few times that 150m marker nearly got to exit the chat 😛
    • Well, just go buy some handbrake cables. S14, S13, A31 (? Maybe not - I suspect they have R chassis brakes), whatever you can get your hands on. And throw them at the car and see what sticks. Worst case, it is not impossible to get brake cables made. They just need the appropriate termination swaged on.
×
×
  • Create New...