Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Fuel Pump Help

Dudfield_xd

By Dudfield_xd,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dudfield_xd Rookie

Dudfield_xd

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I've tried searching quickly to find some information but I thought I'd just post and ask.

Got my 33 last Monday and in the last few morning it's been hard to start (had to give it a few revs while cranking to get it to hold idle) anyway yesterday I was driving and all of a sudden it just shut off. Tried starting again but wouldn't fire. Checked for fuel at the rail but nothing there. Checked fuse in the boot and that's fine, also swapped the pump relay in the boot for the AC one in the bonnet but still no go. Can't hear the pump priming when turn the key. Just wondering if there are any other fuses/relays I should be checking before I go out and buy another pump. It's a Bosch 040, relatively new I was told by the previous owner.

Any suggestions would be awesome!

Cheers

-Nathan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415243-r33-fuel-pump-help/
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

How much fuel is in the thanks?

If its priming then its obviously getting power. In my 33 if I turn the key slowly towards start I can get the fuel pump to go constantly just before it contacts the start circuit so try that to see if it stays on. If its priming it should be getting enough to idle but

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Got a power fc you can check the sensors etc on? See if its sending a command to the fuel pump

Otherwise grab a multimeter and see if its getting power and has a good earth. Check the fuse (its one of the ones in the boot)

Check relays are clicking on etc

paul_psi Collaborator

paul_psi

Posted
Posted

i had the same kind of problem just stopped working and i couldnt find any problems so what i did is tested the blue wirer coming out the pump and still no power was going to it. so i stripped a bit of the wire and conected it stright to the battery and the pump started working better then before (more amps straight from battery) so i wired up a relay with a fuse straight to the battery and didnt us the standard wires ( need to run a ignition wire to the relay i went straight from the key barrel i found a DIY on here somewhere that gave me a step by step on how to wire up the relay then just run a wire for ignition and disregard all standard wiring hope this helps

  • 2 weeks later...
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

Ok having same issue after removing stereo...no fuel..fuses all check out and if I hard wire it the pumps works...still doesn't explain why it doesn't work otherwise...only thing I can figure is somethinto do with the alarm having a fuel cut that's blown a fuse or something but all fixes on alarm are ok too...

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

thanks Jez Will give it a go...and if there isn't?? I didnt think it would start if ecu was dead

I'm wondering if it's that fuel pump controller box under the back seat but don't see why it would burn out unless its because she changed stereo without disconnecting a battery..there was also a strange noise coming from the back of the engine somewhere I couldn't pin point that went away...it was something electronic though

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Thats what ur testing for. If it starts with some wd40 or start ya bastard than we know the CAS and ecu ignition system is working fine.

Then u need to test for the fuel side of things, fuel and fuel pressure at the rail, if not chase back to pump

If theres fuel and pressure at the rail then check injector pulse.

battery Mentor

battery

Posted
Posted

All I can think is the pump controller is flogged out..can anyone confirm if its under the back seat

I always thought it was under the parcel shelf but im guessing you would have already looked there..

Ok...

It has some.alarm setup as well and I'm wondering if the immobilizer has a fuel cut that's playing up..all the fuses checkout ok on the immobilzer though

Could be that, they may have installed external relays to control each immobilizing point, have a look for them.. Id check for the trigger at the ecu first then go looking for the controller.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Damn it, I was at work last night, and stayed in a room there during the storm with the car outside, but undercover, I just went downstairs and well....there was a large steel locker that has come from some place last night, it wasn't anywhere I could see yesterday, and yeap, it landed on the fraking car....of course it did..... LOL So, I'll need to take it back for paint and panel, luckily it was only the boot that took the hit, so it could have been worse Serves me right for staying at work and getting on the cans with some of the boys
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • hypergear
      Hypergear Turbochargers and High flow Services Development thread

      By hypergear · Posted

      I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • cardre
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By cardre · Posted

      Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
×
×
  • Create New...