Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Suspension

Chris at Inline qbn, who is the local guru, had a heart attack just before doing an extensive job on the 32.

He is still working, however he cant take on the same workload as before, even though he has some helpers now.

So if you want the best be prepared to wait.

Second best is probably capital steering and suspension fyshwick.

I havent had work done by them, but they supplied my parts quickly, and others give them a good rap(earlier in this thread).

They have a large workshop and lots of workers, so im sure they would be quick on the job too.

But if your getting all adjustable arms and stuff, you want them adjusted right, so Inline is the way to go.

Ps.. my car was the s-box there, Porches, Ferrari, BMW, Merc, and some beautiful oldies like a Corvette and Mustang.

This guy really knows what he's doing. Nice bloke too.

A couple of weeks ago, probably from working too much.

Just before starting on the 32, but the last thing he needs is to stress about work. So i waited awhile before calling back.

Hes had many many well wishers and says hes a bit over it. I think heaps of people know him in the industry and motorsport.

Obviously has a lot of freinds, like i said, a nice bloke.

Maybe we could send him a get well soon card from SAU ACT, it would be nice, and unobtrusive.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

B N P is no more.

The guy that owned it bought Japspec Garage in mitchell.

That reminds me i gotta look and see if hes got something i want (2 rooms of bits apparently)

More than just two rooms mate. Pm with a list as there is a sale going on.

Bit of a story about my experience with ACT Brakes.

Today I had the hardline fittings flared for my hydraulic handbrake at ACT Brakes. They are terrible, I wouldn't recommend them at all.

First of all, they are very over priced. ABS in Fyshwick will flare the ends of hard brake line for $5.50 per flare, I like this shop and they do a good job, but their portable flaring tool was broken, so they could only flare hardline out of the car, not under the car like I needed.

ACT Brakes quoted $31.25 per flare! There were no other shops nearby to do the work, so I paid $125 to have the 4 flares done. Way way overpriced.

Secondly, when I arrived to pick my car up it was sitting outside in pouring rain with the two front windows down - both seats drenched and pools of water in the footwells (no carpet in my car)

Next, they said if I wanted the brakes bled it would cost a further $75, I said no and I will bleed them at home. When I picked the car up they said they bled them anyway, but the pedal goes flat to the floor, it was a very difficult drive home. Pretty poor that they couldn't even quickly bleed the brakes to a reasonable pedal feel, hydraulic handbrake or not they are supposed to be a brake shop.

Lastly, before I took the car in I drilled a hole in my transmission tunnel for the hardline to run through, I drilled a 13.5mm hole and put a rubber grommet in it - more than big enough for two pieces of hardline to run through. When I picked the car up, they had run 1 line through the hole with a grommet that I drilled, then they had drilled another hole next to it and didn't put a grommet, I left more grommets in the glovebox but I didn't know they were drilling a new hole and I forgot to tell them about the extra grommets. Either way, you would think a 'professional' brake shop would not leave a brake line running through a bare metal hole.

That's my rant. Overall, terrible experienced, shoddy work and very overpriced, I would not recommend these guys to anyone.

The ACT Brakes in Mitchell is well known for screwing people as they do a lot of rego inspections.

Pedders Belco is another bad one, most of the transmission shops in canberra etc etc.

Half the auto shops in Canberra are dodgy as.

Check out who has a good reputation and avoid all others.

Ps: Did you check out how much a flaring tool is? Or if one of us has one? I have pipe benders for that stuff. You got a drill and grommets....

Yep just as above ^ I had one lined up but that fell through at the last minute, needed to have it done in time for Wakefield this weekend.

I didn't post on any forums, I found out yesterday I couldn't use the tool I had arranged to so I started calling shops.

Flaring tools aren't that expensive but I needed a weird double flare, that is what makes the tools quite expensive (from what I found)

Pretty disappointing; I wonder how so many of these workshops stay in business.. perhaps all of their trade accounts?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So we have most the interior back in, and for the first time with one OEM speaker hooked up. The 31 is running, driving and now tunes!!! Hahaha yet another step for the sub that sat 10m under for two weeks!!! unbelievable really 👌 lots of love work and not giving up on her. Seen so many youngsters part way less, and in way better condition. I’m stubborn, thinking another problem is just a hurdle to overcome, One at a time. IMG_9277.mov
    • That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu. 
    • Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter.  I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold.    I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.        
    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
×
×
  • Create New...