Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This morning I took my sons wheel to Bob Jane (coz its close) to get a puncture repaired. And i'm going to need tyres when my wheels get here in a few weeks so I thought I might as well get a few prices. My wheels will be 18 X 9.5 so this is what he told me.

Pirelli $570 per tyre

Hankook $370

Falken Under $300

My question is what are your thoughts on all or one of these types of tyres or maybe even another brand. Start typing.

Thanks guys

Alan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41556-which-tyres/
Share on other sites

Falkens for under 300 are probably the 326s i have on mine ... not very good for a GTR... probably ok for a low powered gtst or a falcadore...

i have 18x9s... i got quoted 650 a tyre for michelon sport pros or bridgestone S03s.. or about 500 a tyre for Yoko ES100 (i think thats the model)...

Leaning towards the yoko, because i can't justify 2.5k on tyres...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41556-which-tyres/#findComment-852066
Share on other sites

I have got the Yokohama ES100s on my 18x9.5" rims. They fit real nice and so far have been a good tyre. As ferni sad the Falkens you were quoted on would be the 326s and I haven't heard anyone say good things about them. For an extra $100 a corner you could get the Falken ST 115, They are supposed to be pretty good. Alot of good things have been said about the Bridgestone SO3s and the Michelins also. It all depends on what you expect from the tyre, the size of your wallet and if you have a brand preference. I have always liked Yokohamas so it was either ES100 or V102 for me, and since the hole burning in my wallet was getting quite large I chose the ES100, and so far they have easily performed to my expectations.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41556-which-tyres/#findComment-852232
Share on other sites

no idea mate, i have not bought them in Australia b4. I used to run P-Zeros overseas in Malaysia. But looking at the Pirelli website, for that size, u'll be needing the P-Zero Asimmetrico tyres. Melb dealer is Bob Jane (03) 9329 6311 according to the page.

The P Zero system concept

- P Zero Direzionale front, P Zero

Asimmetrico rear

- P Zero Asimmetrico all round

PZERO DIREZIONALE™Size range

35

255/35 ZR20TL 97Y(J)

40

225/40 ZR18TL 88Y

235/40 ZR18TL 91Y

45

215/45 ZR18TL 89Y(F)

225/45 ZR17TL 90N2

245/45 ZR18TL 96Y

PZERO ASIMMETRICO™Size range

30

285/30 ZR20TL 99Y(J)

295/30 ZR18TL 94N3

35

265/35 ZR18TL 93Y(1)

335/35 ZR17TL 106Y

345/35 ZR15TL 95Y

40

245/40 ZR18TL 97Y

255/40 ZR18TL 95Y

255/40 ZR19TL 96Y

265/40 ZR17TL 96Y

285/40 ZR17TL 100Y

45

205/45 ZR17TL 88W

225/45 ZR17TL 91Y

245/45 ZR16TL 94Y

255/45 ZR17TL 98Y

255/45 ZR17TL 98Y(F)

255/45 ZR18TL 99Y

255/45 ZR19TL 104Y

285/45 ZR18TL 103Y

50

205/50 ZR16TL 87Y(A)

215/50 ZR17TL 91Y

235/50 ZR17TL 96W

245/50 ZR17TL 99Y

255/50 ZR18TL 102Y(1)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41556-which-tyres/#findComment-852957
Share on other sites

How about, if money is tight, Falken 451's. Theyre about the cheapest I would go and say 245/35/R18 all round shouldn't be more than $270 per tyre.

Theyre pretty decent for a cheap tyre and it will give you time to save up for your next set of better tyres.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41556-which-tyres/#findComment-855970
Share on other sites

I just bought Yokohama ES100s today, the guys are putting them on as we speak!. They are $255 per tyre, but I have stock rims so i had to get 225/50Z R16 92W.

I wanted to get 255s but they don't come that wide for a 16" rim. I wanted the 45 ratio tyre wall, but apparently for my type vehicle it is too small and illegal, due to the weight. Which i wound strange as it was 225/45Z R16 92W. But 50Z is ok.

The V102 was on an extra $50. I was considering these, but the difference is minimal and the ES100 is such a good performer that i could justify the extra $200.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41556-which-tyres/#findComment-857831
Share on other sites

I think the Toyo Proxies T1-S are a bloody good tyre for the price you are paying for them.

Great in theory but they dont come in 18's.

Big fella - it depends on funds but if it was me I'd get firstly the Yokohama AVS Sport (V102's) or else the Falken ST115's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41556-which-tyres/#findComment-857911
Share on other sites

I have the top model hankook's on my R33 gts-t in 265/35-18. I think they are good, but not for a hy-po car. Maybe if I had about 180-190rwkw they would be ok, but with 210rwkw I find that I can't get any traction when I put the foot down. Will start another thread about my problem as I'm looking for a solution.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41556-which-tyres/#findComment-864549
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

OK... time to tell my story.. my old man been in tyre business for 26 year nows, so therfore i have personaly try all kind of tyre which you can name it. For me my personal tyre is bridgestone which is value for money, but i have also try Pirelli before which is very good, even on the low end version (Pirelli), however because of the $$$ that y i choose bridgestone for my personal preference tyre. Yokohama well i have try the AVS which turn out "SUCK' as comparison to other brand for the same value.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41556-which-tyres/#findComment-884536
Share on other sites

Value and performance, IMHO the Toyo trapio TPG (GU:WN) is pretty hard to go past. Quite sticky wet and dry.

See if you can get 245s fitted, 'but I have 9.5 inch rims, 245s wont fit' think again. I have seen them on a 10" rim. If you go slightly undersized on the tyre, it will give more rigidity to the sidewall, giving a better feed back and more stability on the road.

Yet another opinion, have fun making the selection. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41556-which-tyres/#findComment-885690
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 65601-05U00 is the hood latch. 62550-08U31 is the support that holds it to the radiator core support. They are all super discontinued so I don't really have any great leads on how to source this stuff.
    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
×
×
  • Create New...