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Hi all, im about to undertake a conversion on my 32. I have a black gtst type m rb20det and want to put a 25de neo into it, i have done a fair bit of research and still dont know whats going on i have asked a few mechanics and still everyone gives me a different answer so please your help/advice would be much appriciated!!

I have bought a rb25de neo with 78000ks with loom and ecu, i still want to run the rb20det box if this is still possible, just wanted to know exactly what is needed to be changed/customized for the conversion.

Yes the only reason i am doing this is because im a p plater and i just kept getting introuble driving it turbo'd. i will be doing all the work with another two friends who have done engine conversions a fair bit.

once again your help/advice would be much appriciated!!

R32 RB25DE ECU will not run the VCT on the Neo, so you would need a window switch of some sort to make that work.

I personally would do the complete R34 loom into R32 conversion. There's a fair bit of re-wiring required though.

The other thing that will entertain is the decision on whether to keep the crappy old RB20 power steer pump and air-con compressor, or to switch to the lovely newer R34 ones. If you keep the old crap, you don't have to do any plumbing. But if you swap, you need new lines made or cut'n'shut. There's a lot of time and $$ hiding in things like that.

You can use the RB20DET gearbag. It's the same box as the NeoDE's anyway.

i used a cheap kitset window switch for vct, but even with it disconnected it ran fine, it's only de so whatever's quicker & easier, if you can do the wiring +! on the neo loom & ecu, also with 32 loom ignitor needs removing or get the old coils in there

  • 2 weeks later...

Lads, just brought a R32 4 door off a bloke today, its got a 25 neo in it, but its still 4 stud. Its got the correct mod plates for the engine and stuff.

I thought the brakes had to be upgraded if you changed a N/A to a Turbo though?

If the Neo in it is a turbo, then yes, you will definitely need at least R33 brakes. Well, you would in SA. Hell, in SA, you need to upgrade to R33 brakes even from an R32 turbo, let alone NA.

I wouldn't take my word on it for QLD. But QLD is worse/nastier, so I'd assume you'd need at least R33 brakes. There is no way that it is legal with original sliding calipers and rotors unless some foolish engineer decided to sign off on it.

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    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
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