Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, im about to undertake a conversion on my 32. I have a black gtst type m rb20det and want to put a 25de neo into it, i have done a fair bit of research and still dont know whats going on i have asked a few mechanics and still everyone gives me a different answer so please your help/advice would be much appriciated!!

I have bought a rb25de neo with 78000ks with loom and ecu, i still want to run the rb20det box if this is still possible, just wanted to know exactly what is needed to be changed/customized for the conversion.

Yes the only reason i am doing this is because im a p plater and i just kept getting introuble driving it turbo'd. i will be doing all the work with another two friends who have done engine conversions a fair bit.

once again your help/advice would be much appriciated!!

R32 RB25DE ECU will not run the VCT on the Neo, so you would need a window switch of some sort to make that work.

I personally would do the complete R34 loom into R32 conversion. There's a fair bit of re-wiring required though.

The other thing that will entertain is the decision on whether to keep the crappy old RB20 power steer pump and air-con compressor, or to switch to the lovely newer R34 ones. If you keep the old crap, you don't have to do any plumbing. But if you swap, you need new lines made or cut'n'shut. There's a lot of time and $$ hiding in things like that.

You can use the RB20DET gearbag. It's the same box as the NeoDE's anyway.

i used a cheap kitset window switch for vct, but even with it disconnected it ran fine, it's only de so whatever's quicker & easier, if you can do the wiring +! on the neo loom & ecu, also with 32 loom ignitor needs removing or get the old coils in there

  • 2 weeks later...

Lads, just brought a R32 4 door off a bloke today, its got a 25 neo in it, but its still 4 stud. Its got the correct mod plates for the engine and stuff.

I thought the brakes had to be upgraded if you changed a N/A to a Turbo though?

If the Neo in it is a turbo, then yes, you will definitely need at least R33 brakes. Well, you would in SA. Hell, in SA, you need to upgrade to R33 brakes even from an R32 turbo, let alone NA.

I wouldn't take my word on it for QLD. But QLD is worse/nastier, so I'd assume you'd need at least R33 brakes. There is no way that it is legal with original sliding calipers and rotors unless some foolish engineer decided to sign off on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...