Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

decided to replace a map light globe. While changing it I blew the interior fuse - so no lights. Easy replace.

also stuck a drink holder in like Kats. Didn't like the look of the silver inserts so painted them black. Happier now :)

Well the car does excite hiM! LMAO

Fairly certain that on his Birth Certificate, it actually says his name is "Rigid". :rofl:

Reset ECU, it's as easy as everyone says. and instant improvement, seems to be more pokey down low =) Now to see if it's helped fuel economy........

It may, but a new O2 sensor will help more. (I got one from Vulture Motorsport on here.) Cheap and effective. :thumbsup:

will remember the long idle for next time =)

O2 sensor is about 15000 k old, so don't think it should be a problem, but also not going to be optimal.

Have been having overheating issue when sitting on above 110km/h.

Replaced rad cap, coolant, thermostat, both not in great condition, but problem still occurs.

laser temp across radiator showed a difference in the center of it by about 8 deg.. would this mean blockage and could be causing the issue?

when temp was taken car had only been idling for about 5 mins after doing thermo and coolant.

Can drive as hard as i want, only issue when sitting on over 110 for a few minutes..

Stock radiator? Could be full of gunk, at that speed, there should be plenty of air for cooling.

Still using the stock belt driven clutch fan or do you have electric fans?

yeah stock radiator and fan etc.

coolant seemed pretty clean when it came out. for what thats worth......

considering upgrading radiator, but not sure i want to spend $500 bucks just yet.

If i leave it a few months i will be in Adelaide, so no postage to deal with..

Is it worth replacing fan& shroud with the twin ones?

As far as I know, the stock Fan and shroud is the best cooling option. It just creates a bit of load on the engine and takes a little power away, which for normal use, is not an issue.

If you are trying to get every little bit of power out of your engine, then taking away that load might make a small difference. Might aswell get an electric water pump while your at it for the same reason.

I got a Brand new Aluminium Radiator off Ebay for $149 posted. (Autotechnica M-spec) and it works a treat and appears to be good quality.

The guys who installed it for me + new thermo and hoses, reckoned it was the best money I will ever spend on my car.

Shop around.

A radiator cooling panel may help also (and they pretty things a little. Bonus!) but NISSANs design should work in stock form unless there is a problem.

I was wondering about those $150 ebay ones.. just figured you get what you pay for, lol.

Intending on getting a cooling panel, 1 bit at a time though =)

cars mostly stock so not squeezing every little bit of power, prefer long term reliability for a daily driver.

I may have been lucky to get it (it was on clearance) and I haven't seen another one the same on Ebay (not that I look often) but 17 months and 19000 kms later, I haven't had a problem.

It was a perfect fit and uses the stock shroud plus it is a bit thicker core.

Edit* maybe yours needs a good ol' reverse flushing.

Keep the OEM fan/shroud.

Buy a new alloy radiator

Grab some liquid molly cooling system flush.

Follow the instructions and flush it with your existing radiator on (it works like a filter).

Put new radiator in :)

While your at it what is your oil temp like? Oil + water temps are related.

When I buy a car I like to put an engine flush and injector cleaner through it too. (again liquid molly brand). this brand does the best job.

Just to make certain there is no sludge. Injectors clean.

Cooling panels are pretty much all show. Minor benefit but covers up the stuff underneath nice and neatly from the eyes.

Edit: Have you checked your belts ?

2nd Edit: When flushing the cooling system remember heater on FULL

Belts are checked, all ok, all replaced 10000k ago or less.

Did injector cleaner when i bought it 4 months ago.

Oil temp. Is there a stock gauge for that? Not noticed any change in the oil gauge in the cluster.

any thoughts on this one? Is it worth spending 500 on a brand name 3 core? (remember mostly stock car, only planning to increase boost to about 9psi)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190700402072?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Cant find much on the autotecnica one, even their webpage doesnt give any info.

Sorry just had another thought. Check all temp sensors too. (ECT, IAT, EGR)

night all

Oil Temp gauge definitely. In the 32 it's in the triple gauge.

Should run about 90-95 when warmed and not under consistent high load (acceleration).

Measures from 70 to 150. Anyhting over 105-110 pull over :) and let it cool.

R33 has oil pressure but not Temp.

Mine sits on 95 on my cheap $15 ebay temp gauge.

There is a thread titled Ebay radiators. (maybe in forced induction or...)

Look it up and see what you can see.

Thanks Rob, found it ;) Think I'll go with an asi one.

I noticed in the thread you say you went with appropriate RED coolant. Do these require a different coolant to the normal Green one I currently use?

I know there a lot of variables with coolant now, and you cant just go by colour. Just need to know if I can use the same coolant or if I have to change?

Just about to order one when I get the address of my mates shop as they dont like to post to POBox...

Stick with the colour you have. (be it red or green)

DO NOT MIX colours is the only golden rule here.

If you do you will end up with a sludgy radiator and cooling system as they are made from different chemicals.

If you do wish to change types (clolour) then have it professionally pressure flushed first.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...