Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  On 24/10/2013 at 12:12 AM, RosieR34 said:

Also - was looking at a CF Pod Filter airbox - however it's rated for the stock pod filter and not my aftermarket one so not sure if it'll fit :(

What's a "Stock" pod filter? Stock airbox wouldn't fit some CBF heatshield so if it's for a pod, it should suit your needs.

  On 24/10/2013 at 5:34 AM, Not a Pulsar said:

What's a "Stock" pod filter? Stock airbox wouldn't fit some CBF heatshield so if it's for a pod, it should suit your needs.

Stock air intake

  On 24/10/2013 at 5:53 AM, Not a Pulsar said:

So what is this Carbon dingus if it is for a stock airbox?

You are a perplexing little man. Do my f**kin head in you do. :P

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18017&cat=328&page=3

I like to speak in riddles :3

Pod Filter YES!

Stock Airflow Meter YES!

It is what you want. Untill you replace your Airflow Meter to get Extra Power. ie. Z32 Airflow meter.

And it's a Huge waste of monies.

My DIY Perspex one cost me $0.00

Oi Red - I have what you want - New :yes: still in box

It's the metal one from JJR (SRI)

- CF is shit. Ask a few of the lads on here. Flimsy, crack and break.

(it's better and cheaper Wooot! )

Edit: It is no longer any good for me as I have the Z32 and the metal intake pipe..

Edited by Sinista32

dude i told you dont worry about the pod filter it actully gives 0kw gains if not it just gives you more heat soak. The stock intakes are actually a nailed design. Ive been trying to convince him just to go without the certificate. Its not November yet the worst thing that would happen is that yo have to go again im not sure if you have a number of times that you can try to get cleared. Id be guessing three times.

"Facepalm"

B-rice is 100% correct. Don't waste your cash Jeremy. Start saving for a turbo for more POWAAAHH.

Like i said the only reason i have POD filters is because with the Z32 AFM a box will not fit. Soon i'm putting a haltech in, getting rid of AFM and going to E85 =). ARC induction box for me!

Edited by Anfanee

I buy what I like. I like CF, I don't care if it gives any sort of gain- the gain for me is visual as well as a bit of heat/cold air separation. I like the look of it. I don't see why it's a problem that I want to purchase something that I like? :/

How much is your metal SRI Richard?

  • Like 1

Meh... whats evs.

Buy Richard's and get some carbon look vinyl wrap.

Edit* under bonnet rice is pointless for you as it's only ever other people who lift your bonnet anyway. :P

$150

and I'm divided

I bet I could go around every ones skyline and spot mods with no benefits other than visual .........

Edit: This one https://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17670&cat=272&page=3

Edited by Sinista32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd say the easiest way is, pick up a extended and baffled sump with fittings already welded on. Here is an example, it has 3 x -10 fittings  https://shop.maatouksracing.com.au/products/rb-extended-and-baffled-sump
    • hey OP can you remind me what the actual question was, I got sidetracked at V12. Do you have an turbo oil return leak and an unidentified coolant leak? The factory oil returns are terrible design; short, rubber and expensive to replace. They are very common to fail and a pain to replace because they are so short. Still, they are available new if you want to replace both last time I checked. For the coolant leak, any competent mechanic should be able to do a pressure test; that should show up where the leak is. It is almost certainly one of the billion 30 year old rubber lines which are now brittle as hell, you engine will be fine.
    • From the OP's description, sounds to me like the TCU is in 'limp home' mode --- that is, no actuation power to shift solenoids, and the EPC valve is shut (full line pressure). This effectively sticks the box in 3rd gear, with as much line pressure as possible, to try hold the high clutch clamped shut....and so you get woeful acceleration and don't feel any shifts (because they're not happening). If you don't have Consult or some other scanner to interrogate the TCU itself, you can test with a multimeter to see if it's in limp home mode....ie; stick it in D with engine at idle (hold vehicle with hand/foot brake), and measure the voltage at the TCU feeding shift solenoids A & B -- both should be ON (battery voltage). If they are energized at the TCU, you can unplug the harness from the TCU, and check resistance down through the wiring to the solenoids themselves -- you should see about 20ohms on each coil --- if you do, you can presume the wiring to shift solenoids is OK -- if both measure open circuit, you have to check intermediate connectors in the loom down to the gearbox (and the gearbox connector itself), and check the shift solenoid resistance at the gearbox connector itself --- if the shift solenoids test open circuit here, problem is in the box (ether the solenoids or wiring to them is bad). If you get no voltage at TCU connector for the shift solenoids (and the solenoids/wiring test OK), check powers/grounds to the TCU itself --- if they're ok, it suggests the TCU is the culprit (and you'd need to interrogate it if possible, to find out why it's behaving badly)... 
    • Hey mate give Autotechnica a go, I recently got some Comfort PUs and rails from them, they're comfy and look great highly recommended! https://www.autotecnica.com.au/part-finder/nissan/skyline/r32/
    • Honestly, for a daily I would gladly rock a Camry. The more disposable the better. People drive horribly out here and road conditions are awful.
×
×
  • Create New...