Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, I got the bad news today that my ViPec needs to be sent to WA to be repaired and could take 4 plus weeks.

This puts me in a sticky situation as I need a car for work

Until..... I hit a goddam Kangaroo.

Oh the humanity.. Beep Beep Booooop.

Is the shitta still drivable or was it a big roo?

attachicon.giflmgt.jpg

Gave them a wash before the sun went down

Ooh so nice. Pretty jealous Edited by gtr judd

Damn man, thats some bad luck!! Guess you can only be glad it was the shitter and not the line..

Got a new key deliivered, my old one is quite worn so I had a cheapy cut first, it's REALLY tight to turn! is this normal?

at first I didn't think it was going to work, but noticed a little movement so used more force. do I need to get it trimmed down a bit further? do the lock barrels need fixing?

Is the shitta still drivable or was it a big roo?

Ooh so nice. Pretty jealous

It was just a glancing blow.. Bit of a ding, the bumper dislodged which I screwed back into place, bit of trim gone and the headlight hanging out which I got back into place. Very lucky.

Yeah not suprised your Jelly of the Barina :woot:

It was just a glancing blow.. Bit of a ding, the bumper dislodged which I screwed back into place, bit of trim gone and the headlight hanging out which I got back into place. Very lucky.

Yeah not suprised your Jelly of the Barina :woot:

Willing to swap? R34 GTT for Barina? :woot:

Try wd40 on the key.

Graphite powder is also good for new keys and locks.

wd40 made no difference. is it likely the powder will be much better?

today, the key won't work at all in the boot (just like the 'spare' key i got with the car. But i presume its meant for valet. though the valet key has different valley size)

Light sanding as suggested to take burs off then Graphite powder on key and Ignition barrel.

some things shouldn't be WD40'd. (locks is one of them)

In other news replaced steering wheel in the GTR this morn with a newie :rolleyes:

old one is in top cond but was tempted to onsell to a mate. (and had the other sitting on the shelf taking space)

Sometimes money trumps having spares.

It was just a glancing blow.. Bit of a ding, the bumper dislodged which I screwed back into place, bit of trim gone and the headlight hanging out which I got back into place. Very lucky.

Yeah not suprised your Jelly of the Barina :woot:

I hit a small one on the GDE one morning, cracked the bumper, proke a headlight mount tab, and a couple small dents. I stitched the bumper back together with cable ties.....PERFECT.

Also, you can't even begin to imagine how jealous I am...

on topic and maybe of of interest - a full new set of R32 GTR locks including ignition barrel is $240

thinking I may buy a complete new set and get the NIsmo key cut to suit Sin.

Cant see myself selling the car or the key so seems logical they should be "locked" together :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...