Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale is r33 skyline

Motor is still currently been built but will be finished this week

So basically your buying a car with a brand new built motor that hasn't been started

It will be back in the car running and if you wanted before the sale will be dyno tune for run in

I have receipts for building the motor and the parts that are in the build

Everything is brand new

Je pistons 86.5mm

Nitto rods

Block been bored, hone, washed, oil gallieres wided

Crank collar fitted

Crank been polished and balanced

Nitto oil pump

850cc injectors

Fuel pressure reg

044 in tank pump

Arp head and main studs

Acl racing bearings

256 cams with adj can wheel

Head has been serviced, washed, crack tested, new valve stem seals

Mlsd headgasket

Brand new garret gt3540 turbo not used until motor starts

High mount ex manifold

Forward facing plenum brand new

80mm throttle body brand new

Catch can

FMIC hybrid

Z32 afm

D2 racing coilovers

Apexi ecu with hand controller

17inch shadow chrome kings rims with brand new tyres

Stainless 3inch exhaust

Screamer pipe

Brand new water pump and tensions

Brand new gates racing timing belt

So much to list I know I have forgotten things

Any questions just ask this is built to make big power over 500+hp

Chasing $16,000

post-101077-0-69888300-1355610313_thumb.jpg

post-101077-0-58199100-1355610361_thumb.jpg

post-101077-0-09535900-1355610511_thumb.jpg

post-101077-0-27571500-1355610583_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415709-r33-built-to-make-over-500rwhp/
Share on other sites

Yep, coz I wanna buy a house next year at some stage so it's either the r33 that gets sold or my other show car,

Just thought someone may want the car with only a few is on it before I start driving it as its gonna be my daily,

I have all receipts for all the work and parts,

If it doesn't sell I know I'm more then gonna be happy to daily it and love the power to not sell it after that lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
×
×
  • Create New...