Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Take it back Brandon, but this time, set the rev limit to 2500rpm, so they can move the car around the shop, nothing more.

Yah I am going to have to purchase a Hand Controller or borrow one.

If the paint doesn't match, then you should take the car back,

They are paid to return the car to the original condition.

If they squabble about it, tell them you will contact the insurance company who paid them.

IF they don't do anything, CONTACT that insurance company.

If they refuse to fix it still, take your can to somebody who will fix it and then invoice the insurance company. This happens more than you would think.

PM me for details of somebody who will do it required.

As for the driving of the car, do what your Mum always does, write a letter.

Nothing has ever happened ever in the world without paper work to support it.

Words are just words and cannot be proven.

If nothing happens, then go to one of those websites that publish shoddy workmanship, put them up there, and tell them you will forward the sire to everyone you know until they fix it properly.

I F*UCKING HATE BAD WORKMANSHIP

BASS OUT

Brandon, give the insurnace company a call and tell them your not happy with the service and you want it fixed somewhere else.. also mention the 'joy ride'.

And whats the chance that whoever drove it took it for a nice little quiet cruise. If they are risking their job over it, im sure they would have made the 86km a very fun drive!

NRB - I will keep you guys informed

Bass Junky - Yah Im sending them a Fax stating my dissapointment. You're exactly right it has to be in writing. I'll keep the Fax receipt for my proof.

PM me for details of somebody who will do it required.

Thanks.

dAVE - Yah I was considering this. The issue is the owner of the Panel Beaters is a friend of a friends. I don't believe the owner or his son would of driven my car but most likely one of his workers. I am finding it very hard to burn them if they were not directly involved.

I can feel for you - i've only left my car with people to do things a few times, detailing, alarm stuff, audio etc... i always check my odo before hadning it over and say 'you dont need to drive it anywhere besides in and out of hte shop do you' they always say no... that way i can use that against them if they have... sounds like what you do as well....

86ks is alot, that would be 2 hours of driving, i could get over say 5ks for road testing etc.. but 86ks, i would of gone SKITZ

Dude thats shocking... thats the problem with leaving car's like these at a workshop you are not familiar with. When i had my kit fitted i left it at a place that is known to constantly have cars like this and alot better (not that yours isn't phat, but i'm talken 2-300K Merc's and stuff), as i know the people personally and they are top people, wouldn't touch a car even if they had to, and the fact that they see them day in, day out is good cos they get over them as its nothing new. Their reputation alone is enough to convince me...

But seriously, call the consumer watchdog or whatever they are and spill ya beans they will get into it, and make sure you tell the owner of the shop this too, he will shit bricks. It is actually not legal to drive a car under the supervision of a workshop for anything more than a 'test drive' on parts that were repaied, under suspicion... and 86km's is a lot more than a suspicion. I don't want to bring it up, but in reality, it could have gone for an absolute beating, and you will suffer the consequences in the short future. Personally i think i would have the car checked professionally by a workshop and have a report written and see if there is any mechanical damage, if so take em to court cos then you have a case. More than likely they will get investigated aswell. Its happened before.

i don't think a contract would be a waste of time. Doesn't have to be a manuscript, could probably put all the conditions etc, on 1 A4 page. Just list their conditions, contract (payment for work) is null and void if the following are not adhered too..

>5km.

blah

blah.

I think the point of contracts are to return you to the same position you started at, if something goes wrong. That means anything you've paid etc.

Sorry to hear about the 86km's mate, especially for a gem of a car like yours. I'd be keen to hear of some of the things ppl do to stop this sort of thing happening. ie fuses being pulled as was mentioned earlier.

cheers.

ferni - yah Im not impressed mate. But can't turn back time.

YBSLO4 - The only thing I have on my side is the petrol consumed matches that of just day to day driving. If they pushed it hard it would finished the tank off but they could of filled up some petrol.

Greg - The key has always been proof. The document would give you the proof. If you have proof you can probably take them to court over it.

SS8_Gohan - Thanks for your comments.

Thanks guys. I drafted a document. There is probably some spelling mistakes and I probably missed out on a couple of things.

1st Draft

Looking for feedback.

That's a really good idea.

And the perfect thing to show car places that you are onto them.

Some people at the car places may be offended, but the ones who are are probably the ones who would drive your car!

ok..looks like i'm against the general grain here. I *guess* i woudln't be that happy, but i wouldn't really be jumping up and down about it. In fact, there is very little that can be proved in the end, very difficult to take further if they just deny it.

gordon... i think the QLD sun has melted your brain and now u r left with an even smaller raisin

no way, not possible! :(... we are just more relaxed up here, such small trivialities do not phase us :)

86km is bad, but could be worse - at least nothing happened to it. One sure fire way is to just drop it off with a few Litres petrol in the car, they're never going to get very far if they do take it for a fang.

What :bs!: , here's a similar story for ya, I had an ex-interceptor VL turbo manual a few years back (till I turned it into a banana :D). Took it to a "reputable" franchise mechanic and left it for the day. Came back and it had 38km on the clock, I questioned them but they wouldnt admit to it! 4 weeks later I get a letter from the Mobile Tax Department aka Police who tell me I've lost my license for doing 128 in a 60 zone and need to appear in court.... WHAT THE!!! I says, I may hoon around from time to time but never that fast in a residential area.

Anyways there I am trying to understand wats happened when I remeber the service, I checked the invoice a you guessed it, the fine was from the day the meachics had the car.

Bottom line, the guy lost his job, license and had to go to court.

JUSTICE!! :D

Bepo

One sure fire way is to just drop it off with a few Litres petrol in the car, they're never going to get very far if they do take it for a fang.

I wouldnt do that!! I am always paranoid that they would fill up with normal ULP and not ultimate etc... theres a quick way to have the car ****ed.

Bepo - Great! I am glad you were able to catch them.

I spoke to the Owner's Son and he sends his deepest apologies and agrees that a document recording the speedometer is acceptable but he assures me the keys will not be left in a common area but locked in a safe place. He has also offered me some complimentary work which I turned down.

the beauty of the Apexi Power FC... all I do now is, go to my settings>rev/idle>revlimit and bring the biyatch right down to 3000-3500rpm, just enough to drive it, without hitting boost. Then I rip the HC out and take it with me. The funniest thing is getting a call from whoevers got the car, and they feel all guilty and bad, and tell you "for some reason your cars not revving over XXXrpm, etc etc???" Keeps them honest.

Mesh - Yup mate that sounds like a top solution!!

Had a quick thought, how easy is it to change these settings your talking about? If it was real easy, whats stopping you setting it to 1000rpm LOL. That way its like another theft device? I'd like to see a thief/joyrider drive it away getting over 1000rpm :wassup:

Just a thought anyways?

Bepo the somewhat devious clown :headspin:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...